Starter Pinion Disengages Prematurely

[bbonney@gci.net]

Hello, I've got a 1998 70hp Evinrude whose starter won't stay engaged long enough for the engine to start. When I turn the key, the starter engages and cranks the motor for about one or two seconds and then drops off the flywheel yet continues to spin. When the engine is cold, this is not enough cranking time to start it. Any idea why the starter pinion is not staying engaged for more than a second or two? The battery is fully charged and tests just fine. The connections have also been cleaned. Help!

 

[LubeDude]

Re: Starter Pinion Disengages Prematurely

Generally when this is happening, your battery isnt 100% full charged.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Starter Pinion Disengages Prematurely

Does the engine seem to pop or let out a slight puff just as the pinion disengages? If so, you might check ignition timing. If it's advanced a little too far, a slight kickback can disengage the starter. You say the battery checks good. Was it actually load tested or did you just measure voltage. Try another known good battery.

 

[bbonney@gci.net]

Re: Starter Pinion Disengages Prematurely

Thanks for the replies.<br /><br />LubeDude: I charged the battery last week and topped it off a couple times over the winter - its only a year old, so I doubt its the battery, but I will load test it tonight. On top of that, I used a battery booster on several of my starting attempts with no improved starting performance. <br /> <br />UpInSmoke: The engine does appear to fire right before the pinion disengages, making me think there's something wrong with my ignition system possibly. I think that the first cyclinder firing is moving the flywheel fast enough to drop the pinion, but obviously not fast enough to start the motor. I'll try replacing the spark plugs tonight and see if that helps solve the problem. As far as ignition timing, the motor I've got is a 1998 70hp EFI - I'm not sure the ignition timing can even be adjusted on this one - I'll look into it tonight.<br /><br />I have to believe a major part of the problem is a poorly designed Evinrude bendix, you should be able to crank the engine over for as long as you want if its won't start. <br /><br />Anything else I should check tonight?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Starter Pinion Disengages Prematurely

heck the cable going from the engine to the battery. one small nick or scuff, can cause moisture to get in, and the cable derteriorate for the inside out, and you don't know it. you may only have 2 or 3 strands connected. also check if the cables get hot when you crank.

 

[Walker]

Re: Starter Pinion Disengages Prematurely

Whats happeneing is your motor is trying to start and when it hits on a firing cylinder the flywheel outruns the starter bendix throwing it back down. Its not a problem with your starter, battery or cables. Maybe time for a tune-up. Please describe your cold starting procedure.

 

[bbonney@gci.net]

Re: Starter Pinion Disengages Prematurely

Walker: I was thinking the same thing regarding the tune-up. I'll start with new spark plugs tonight.<br />My starting procedure is this:<br />1. Prime the bulb until its solid. <br />2. Turn the key on, wait a few seconds for the engine check sequence to complete and for the electric fuel pump to prime.<br />3. Turn the ignition key to engage the starter motor.<br />Thats all...

 

[bbonney@gci.net]

Re: Starter Pinion Disengages Prematurely

As an addition to my last post, I've noticed that the motor has a poor idle when running. When its cold, it seems like the idle RPM's are too low and the motor can barely keep running. Sometimes it even quits and has to be restarted. <br />This also leads me to believe that a tuneup may be in order. I'm a bit confused though as I would think that the computer would keep the rpm's up so the motor wouldn't quit.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Starter Pinion Disengages Prematurely

Let's get back to the starting procedure. First, your engine does not have an electric fuel pump unless someone added it. Second, there is no engine check sequence. Try this instead. 1) pump up the primer bulb. 2) Turn key to ON (not start). 3) Raise fast idle lever. 4) Push key in and hold for count of 8. 4) Turn key to start. 5) If engine tends to die in first few seconds, push the key in momentarily to give a little extra shot of fuel. Pushing the key in is a primer function. Failing to do this causes the exact problem you are experiencing. Failing to use the fast idle feature adds to the problem. Older two strokes need lots of fuel during start and warm up.

 

[bbonney@gci.net]

Re: Starter Pinion Disengages Prematurely

Upinsmoke: Just want to clarify that this is a 1998 70hp four stroke EFI. It does have a high pressure fuel pump that pressurizes the injectors automatically before each startup. There is also an engine check sequence upon turning the key to the on position (this is described in my engine manual). I don't believe pushing in the key does anything on this unit as it is fuel injected. I will try starting the motor tonight using the fast idle when I get home although I'm not sure it will let me - anything's worth a try.

 

[bbonney@gci.net]

Re: Starter Pinion Disengages Prematurely

Ok, I think I found the problem. After replacing the spark plugs last night, I tested for spark using an inline spark tester. Cylinders #2 & #4 are not showing any spark. According to my repair manual, cyclinders #1 & #4 share an ignition coil, and cyclinders #2 & #3 share an ignition coil. Apparently on the four-stroke, both plugs on the ignition coil fire at the same time, one at TDC of the ignition stroke, the other at TDC of the exhaust stroke. Makes me think that both ignition coils are bad, but somehow I doubt it. I'm having a hard time figuring out why only one plug on each coil is firing, especially when everything was working fine when I put it away for the winter. Guess I'll start going through the repair manual and start testing electrical components.