Sorry, Another Winterization Thread

[Boater31]

Hello All,

I apologize in advance but would rather ask questions now then start a how to replace parts posting in a few months.

I have a 99 4.3L Carb Gen+ (0L323711). I also have a heated shop I can work in but not keep the boat in all winter. My overall plan is to store the boat with the drive off, spread the drive off maintenance over winter and keep the drive in the heated shop. So please confirm my ideas/thoughts. Also since I have been working on the boat all summer it has only been used about a hour.:facepalm: That also means that the fuel in the tank is left over from last Sept. I assume I need to get that drained. But since it already has stabalizers in it can it be used for the running portions of winterizing. Also boat is only used in fresh water. Does step 7 in the manual, the step referring to a fuel shut off valve only apply to the EFI engine. Not sure why I need to stop fuel in a carb engine.

So here is my plan, following Don's sticky and the Merc Manual.

1. Run Boat and do oil/filter change.
2. Start motor and idle around 1500rpm, squirt fog oil in until lots of smoke start is coming out exhaust, return to idle and shutdown. (is there a chance of water ingestion in this step)
3. Drain all 4 plugs, 2 on block and 1 on each manifold, then pull recirculating house from water pump and drain it.
3. I assume I have a 140 thermostat since engine never got above 150, so I will be replacing with a 160 per Merc manual. Pull housing and replace thermostat. Since I got it open I will fill block with Anti-freeze.
4. Fill Manifolds with anti-freeze.
5. Drain the drive
6. Remove Drive and refill drive with oil. I do have the lube monitor so is there a catch with leaving drive filled but not on the boat.
7. Drain gas tank, change filter (what is a good way to drain a tank under the floor)
8. Over the winter months as I get time, inspect/replace bellows, bearing, alignment, etc.

Thanks again for everyone's input.

 

[alldodge]

2. Start motor and idle around 1500rpm, squirt fog oil in until lots of smoke start is coming out exhaust, return to idle and shutdown. (is there a chance of water ingestion in this step)

No chance

3. Drain all 4 plugs, 2 on block and 1 on each manifold, then pull recirculating house from water pump and drain it.
3. I assume I have a 140 thermostat since engine never got above 150, so I will be replacing with a 160 per Merc manual. Pull housing and replace thermostat. Since I got it open I will fill block with Anti-freeze.

If you were running the motor on a hose it may not reach operating temp, also your gauge may be off. Either way no problem changing the thermostat but may not be necessary

4. Fill Manifolds with anti-freeze.

If you get the water out antifreeze is not necessary but will not an issue either. That said, I don't se you getting much in the manifolds.

5. Drain the drive
6. Remove Drive and refill drive with oil. I do have the lube monitor so is there a catch with leaving drive filled but not on the boat.

No issue

7. Drain gas tank, change filter (what is a good way to drain a tank under the floor)
.

Best with a marine rated electric pump.

 

[Boater31]

Thanks AllDodge,

I didn't even think of the gauge being off, it did read that in the water as well but when it gets to temp for the oil change I will hit the thermostat housing with a IR gun and see how close it is.

Is it a bad idea to connect a hose to the fuel pump outlet. I have the electric fuel pump mounted next to the filter.

 

[alldodge]

Is it a bad idea to connect a hose to the fuel pump outlet.

Using the boats pump is of no issue, or drawing the fuel thru the existing filter

 

[stonyloam]

If only storing for the winter (3-5 months), I would not bother fogging it, and I would just add stabilizer to the gas rather than draining it, especially if it is non-ethanol gas. Yeah, make sure you get the water out and the antifreeze is not necessary. Pull the battery and keep it on a battery maintainer ( not a trickle charger) in the shop.

 

[Boater31]

Unfortunately the gas has been in there since last September and it does have ethanol. That's why I am thinking of using the fuel pump to drain the tank, it would allow the line from the carb to drain and leave just a little in the tank. I know I wont get all of it but when I add new gas next year it should dilute and flush the small amount of old gas. I think

 

[Brandon5778]

Unfortunately the gas has been in there since last September and it does have ethanol. That's why I am thinking of using the fuel pump to drain the tank, it would allow the line from the carb to drain and leave just a little in the tank. I know I wont get all of it but when I add new gas next year it should dilute and flush the small amount of old gas. I think

How much gas is in the tank? Is it too late to just run it till it gets really low? We usually fill our tanks full for the winter lay up, but I think to each his own on that one.

 

[JoLin]

If you get the water out antifreeze is not necessary but will not an issue either. That said, I don't se you getting much in the manifolds.

I fill the blocks and manifolds with corrosion-inhibiting AF. A 4.3 block takes 1 1/2 gallons. Each of the manifolds will accept 1/2 or 3/4 gallon. Can't remember which, but it's a significant amount.

The OP's 4.3 probably has the PS cooler mounted low on the side of the block, like mine. I don't trust it to drain completely, so I disconnect the intake hose at the t-stat housing and pour a half gallon through there to displace any water that might be sitting in it.

The AF may not be a necessity if you drain everything properly (which I do), but I boat in salt and my engines are raw water cooled. I don't like the idea of the internals rusting away during layup.

My .02

 

[Lou C]

I do exactly the same procedure as above, and have been filling the engine and manifolds up with -100 marine AF with corrosion inhibitors for 15 years worth of salt water boating. I can tell you from taking the upper end of the engine apart due to blown head gaskets, that the AF does slow down corrosion. While there was corrosion internally in the block, heads and intake, nothing was from what I could see, close to rotting through. I wound up installing re-man heads because the cooling passages were eroded to the point where they might not make a good seal on the new head gaskets, and both heads had cracks in the center cyls.

 

[Lou C]

started with this....

 

[Lou C]

started with this....

 

[Boater31]

There is roughly 25-30 gallons in the tank, it will take a long time to run that out without being at the lake. All I have around here is fuel with ethanol so I have to treat it. I used to leave all my tanks full but I read you should do the opposite storing ethanol based fuels.
My PS cooler is mounted high on the back of the engine, but I was thinking pouring a little down the intake house and flush that and the drive, even though the drive will be indoors.

Thank Lou, that is exactly what I am trying to avoid.