soldering PL-259 on VHF antenna

[boatman37]

hey guys. bought and installed a new VHF antenna the other day and tried soldering the PL-259 on. ugh.. i suck. anyway, i had a shakespeare screw on connector before and it seemed to work ok but figured the soldered fitting would be better? better connection? better transmit and receive? anyway, my crap 15 watt soldering iron wouldn't heat the 'needle' enough to solder the tip. watched a few youtubes and saw a guy using a propane torch. tried that and tried to be careful by pointing the flame away from the connector but anyway, solder worked but now i have a short internally so going to cut that off and start over. bought a new 40w iron today but can anyone tell me how good the screw on one is? i can just re-use my old one. i boat on the ohio river and rarely use the radio but want it in case of emergencies

 

[dingbat]

Solder connectors perform worst than no-solder because of dissimilar metals corrosion issues.

I started using the PL-259-CP-G Connectors when they came out. Have not used a solder type since

 

[gm280]

I used most all types and never had any issued with either type. A good quality solder connection works very well. JMHO

 

[jhebert]

Solder connectors perform worst than no-solder because of dissimilar metals corrosion issues.

I started using the PL-259-CP-G Connectors when they came out. Have not used a solder type since

That's a boater talking, not a professional radio installer.

 

[boatman37]

Thanks guys. Fortunately this is something that can be easily changed whenever so for now I will probably re-use the screw on at least until I make it back to the marina to get another solder on connector. But keep the responses coming!

 

[dingbat]

That's a boater talking, not a professional radio installer.

You forgot the part about 38 years as a electronics manufacturing professional with 40+ years of boating experience.....lol

KISS....anything requiring special tools or skills to install or repair is just asking for problems in the field.

 

[sam am I]

This old Chestnut?

I would think/experienced any exposed bare copper wires (crimped wire ends, etc. being connector'ized ) in a boat (esp salt) are better off covered up/protected from the elements. So if by design (there are others, yes), one happens to be using leaded tin (soldering) as a covering over the copper, actuality this then helps prevent corrosion, doesn't it?

This is of course is as far as corrosion factor goes on the exposed copper wire BUT, if the copper wire being used comes pre-tined (i.e. "marine grade wire") then proper crimps are fine as well. Is the coax "marine grade wire"?

If I recall right, the center conductor is usually just un-tinned copper.......And how exposed is the inner copper after assembled? I've seen them rot inside over time and elements.......

I think they also offer tinned inner mating conductors in that connector due to being inherently more corrosion resistant.

Anyway.........Other consideration come into play when soldering: wicking, flexing, vibration, strain relief, yada yada yada. Here's what the "experts" say about it.............In a nut shell and my interpretation is: A sole solder connection is okay AS LONG AS it has strain relief. See "If soldered" below

ABYC

11.14.5.7 Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit. If soldered, the connection shall be so located or supported as to minimize flexing of the conductor where the solder changes the flexible conductor into a solid conductor.


EXCEPTION: Battery lugs with a solder contact length of not less than 1.5 times the diameter of the conductor.


I believe if I recall correctly, the PL-259 connectors have built in strain relief in the back shell.

 

[wrvond]

If you are not comfortable with a soldering iron then by all means use the screw on fitting. It'll probably last longer than you keep the boat.

 

[dingbat]

This old Chestnut?

I would think/experienced any exposed bare copper wires (crimped wire ends, etc. being connector'ized ) in a boat (esp salt) are better off covered up/protected from the elements. So if by design (there are others, yes), one happens to be using leaded tin (soldering) as a covering over the copper, actuality this then helps prevent corrosion, doesn't it?

This is of course is as far as corrosion factor goes on the exposed copper wire BUT, if the copper wire being used comes pre-tined (i.e. "marine grade wire") then proper crimps are fine as well. Is the coax "marine grade wire"?

If I recall right, the center conductor is usually just un-tinned copper.......And how exposed is the inner copper after assembled? I've seen them rot inside over time and elements.......

I think they also offer tinned inner mating conductors in that connector due to being inherently more corrosion resistant.

Anyway.........Other consideration come into play when soldering: wicking, flexing, vibration, strain relief, yada yada yada. Here's what the "experts" say about it.............In a nut shell and my interpretation is: A sole solder connection is okay AS LONG AS it has strain relief. See "If soldered" below

believe if I recall correctly, the [/FONT] PL-259 connectors have built in strain relief in the back shell.

I have no concerns about the durability of the solder connection. I used them for years. Only problem I have with them is the corrosion on the tip (solder) from saltwater exposure. Easy enough to clean with a piece of steel wool every couple of months, but it's just as easy to use a gold plated, solder less connector and the problem goes away altogether.

http://www.orcadxcc.org/content/pl259_va7jw/solderless_pl259_r2.pdf