sshotrodss
Recruit
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2013
- Messages
- 3
SOLVED: !!!! when in doubt - check the easy things !!!!
Wish I could delete the thread - a little embarrassed but perhaps it will help someone
Prior to posting I read a tone of threads for those who appeared to have the same issue however they all appeared to start at a higher RPM and thus just needed a prop fix or their engine had issues like sputtering, dying, missing, cutting off and thus often needed electrical fixes (some fuel).
Engine: 1995 70HP Force by Mercury Marine, 2-stroke.
Boat: 20 foot pontoon (4 adults)
History: Purchased the boat having only started the engine out of water (hose hooked up). The engine ran fine and seemed to rev up fine. Seller indicated that he put a new fuel pump on it and other new electrical components - he said all but the starter and carb were basically new. He said he did a compression check and all readings were good.
Before putting on the lake, cleaned carburetor (appeared clean to begin with), removed and cleaned fuel cell with acetone (aluminum tank with ventilation – appeared clean to begin with), replaced all fuel lines and the filter, and put in new spark plugs. Out of water and in gear the motor will head right to 7000RPMs with the throttle lever fully forward. Out of water it appeared to run fine through the full RPM range.
At the lake it started fine, idled fine, and seemed to run smooth, sound smooth however it only got up to 3100RPMs and 8MPH with the throttle lever fully forward. Based on this forum and talking with boat shops changed out the 10.5X13.5 prop with a 12.5X8 prop as a first course of action. At the lake this yielded 3400RMPs and 12MPH. Motor still ran fine – purred along at 12 mph. Drove it around for 45 minutes (no change); would re-start with the flick of the key. For a 2 stroke no real noticeable exhaust – nothing abnormal.
Checked the throttle cable- appears to be the right one and moves the carb shutter the range I'd expect - I could be wrong though.
At this point I will begin rechecking what I can in regards to the fuel pump and electrical elements. Most likely beyond a visual inspection I’m going to have to take it to a boat shop eventually. Any advice on what the culprit may be for this do-it-yourselfer…..
Wish I could delete the thread - a little embarrassed but perhaps it will help someone
Prior to posting I read a tone of threads for those who appeared to have the same issue however they all appeared to start at a higher RPM and thus just needed a prop fix or their engine had issues like sputtering, dying, missing, cutting off and thus often needed electrical fixes (some fuel).
Engine: 1995 70HP Force by Mercury Marine, 2-stroke.
Boat: 20 foot pontoon (4 adults)
History: Purchased the boat having only started the engine out of water (hose hooked up). The engine ran fine and seemed to rev up fine. Seller indicated that he put a new fuel pump on it and other new electrical components - he said all but the starter and carb were basically new. He said he did a compression check and all readings were good.
Before putting on the lake, cleaned carburetor (appeared clean to begin with), removed and cleaned fuel cell with acetone (aluminum tank with ventilation – appeared clean to begin with), replaced all fuel lines and the filter, and put in new spark plugs. Out of water and in gear the motor will head right to 7000RPMs with the throttle lever fully forward. Out of water it appeared to run fine through the full RPM range.
At the lake it started fine, idled fine, and seemed to run smooth, sound smooth however it only got up to 3100RPMs and 8MPH with the throttle lever fully forward. Based on this forum and talking with boat shops changed out the 10.5X13.5 prop with a 12.5X8 prop as a first course of action. At the lake this yielded 3400RMPs and 12MPH. Motor still ran fine – purred along at 12 mph. Drove it around for 45 minutes (no change); would re-start with the flick of the key. For a 2 stroke no real noticeable exhaust – nothing abnormal.
Checked the throttle cable- appears to be the right one and moves the carb shutter the range I'd expect - I could be wrong though.
At this point I will begin rechecking what I can in regards to the fuel pump and electrical elements. Most likely beyond a visual inspection I’m going to have to take it to a boat shop eventually. Any advice on what the culprit may be for this do-it-yourselfer…..
Last edited:
