Signs of a dead/bad switchbox??

[saltfisher]

I accidently had my poss. and neg. cables switched to the battery and was wondering why my motor wouldnt start. Its a 1988 black max 150. I switched the cables on the battery as i seen they were switched and it started right up. I have been having some issues with the motor (before and after the switching of cables).... I heard someone say that switching the cables will blow the switchbox and recitifer? Is this like a 100% sure thing? I should definatly replace these? Also What are the signs that I have a bad switchbox? i know the recifier is part of the charging system, and my motor does not charge the battery so i guess thats no good. I have idle issues, WOT issues, and a few other tempermental problems with the motor. But they are not really bad, as it will run all day at 3/4 throttle.

Thanks

 

[ricksrster]

Re: Signs of a dead/bad switchbox??

More than likely you blew the rectifier. If your battery is not charging then this is so.
If your engine starts right up and is firing on all cylinders then your switchbox is fine.
Here is a trouble shooting guide for your ignition system:

"http://www.homestead.com/dolphinmarineservice/Ign5.html"

 

[JUSTINTIME]

Re: Signs of a dead/bad switchbox??

all bonding wires are done
check fuses

 

[j_martin]

Re: Signs of a dead/bad switchbox??

There isn't any direct connection between the ignition and the battery. The ignition is self contained, getting it's power from seperate coils (charge coils) in the stator.

You might have blown other electronics, though, like the oil alert module, and possibly tachometer, radio, etc.

For sure you got the rectifier. If you didn't see much visible smoke, and the wires don't look burnt, the stator is probably OK. You can check it out with an ohmmeter when you change the rectifier.

The performance issures are seperate issues. We can probably help with them if you detail what you're seeing. Usually, though, you'll be advised to cover the basics. Check compression, fresh plugs, fresh fuel, check fuel delivery, check link-n-sync.

hope it helps
John

 

[saltfisher]

Re: Signs of a dead/bad switchbox??

I already have another post about the other problems. basiclly, one time it will not want to idle long and shut off, when WOT fees like something is holding it back only for short periods then takes off and is normal, at WOT it will be fine for about 20 seconds then boggs but can back off on the throttle and go WOT again and keep doing that and its fine. Also "sneezes" on cold start-ups, When cold seems like only 1/2 the cylinders are running, just doesnt sound right, I get a long steady "beeeeeeeeep" from the warning system. I beileve its because my impeller needs replaced. Then.... one time i can go out and it will be fine. It was fine 2 days in a row, then changed plugs/primer bulb abd seemed the problems came back. i dont get it. i thought i fixed the problems. Oh.... My water pressure, tach. and speedo dont work either. They worked the very 1st trip out, and that was it.

 

[j_martin]

Re: Signs of a dead/bad switchbox??

I already have another post about the other problems. basiclly, one time it will not want to idle long and shut off, when WOT fees like something is holding it back only for short periods then takes off and is normal, at WOT it will be fine for about 20 seconds then boggs but can back off on the throttle and go WOT again and keep doing that and its fine. Also "sneezes" on cold start-ups, When cold seems like only 1/2 the cylinders are running, just doesnt sound right, I get a long steady "beeeeeeeeep" from the warning system. I beileve its because my impeller needs replaced. Then.... one time i can go out and it will be fine. It was fine 2 days in a row, then changed plugs/primer bulb abd seemed the problems came back. i dont get it. i thought i fixed the problems. Oh.... My water pressure, tach. and speedo dont work either. They worked the very 1st trip out, and that was it.

Both the beep and no water pressure are indications of seriousl cooling problems. Don't run it like that, you're doing big damage to the engine.
If you have run with the beeper going and no water pressure, you have likely done major mechanical damage to pistons. You need to do a compression check to access the condition of things.

The high speed bog could be fuel, or it could be seizing pistons due to overheat. These engines need about 15 GPH fuel delivery at WOT, so if anything is less than perfect, it'll balk. The last bug I shot out of mine was a perfectly normal OEM plastic fuel connector that a mechanic had installed. It just didn't have a big enough bore to support this engine.

Tach runs off the rectifier. If you're lucky, the rectifier will also fix the tach. You may have blown it, hower, when you mis-connected the battery because it also gets power from the ignition switch.

Speedo is probably just a pressure gauge and a pickup built into the front of the lower unit. They plug up easily.

Good luck, but slow down and get it fixed before you wind up with a black anchor.

hope it helps
John

 

[saltfisher]

Re: Signs of a dead/bad switchbox??

Thanks, but the water pressure guage doesnt work, I think its broke, as the previous owner said he replaced it 3 times due to the harsh winters here breaking them. I beileve thats what happened.

 

[j_martin]

Re: Signs of a dead/bad switchbox??

Thanks, but the water pressure guage doesnt work, I think its broke, as the previous owner said he replaced it 3 times due to the harsh winters here breaking them. I beileve thats what happened.

Part of your winterizing procedure should be to pull the line off the pressure gauge, and blow the water in it back to the engine with gentle air pressure. Leave the line off, and the bourdon tube in it will drip dry in a few days.

Still, don't drive it until you find out why it's overheating, or you'll kill it.