Shift interrupt switch - how to adjust??

[Happygolucky]

Hello fellow boaters , I´m trying to find out what´s causing my intermittent stalling problemwith my Bayliner Ciera 2355 from 1997 - 5,7L carb. It´s new to me since last season and initially I blamed the the problem on me not being a bit hesitant shifting into gear while docking..
However searching the net for a solution I start to suspect it´s not only my poor handling that´s causing Shift Interrupt Switch engaging going INTO gear (both FW as R ).

When shifting gear do work, the shifting is smooth so I'm inclined to believe the shift cable is good.
Watching the the shift mechanism while shifting with the Remote contrl,I did observe that the activating lever assembly / ( V-thing with the notch ) did wobble sideways and found that the larger bolt ( yellow circled) acting as an axis for the V-thing, was very loose !
Happy to have found the problem I started to thighten both bolts good , only to realize this would prevent the V-thing from moving as designed .

Question 1 ; what is the spec for tightening these bolts ?

In Service Manual #14 ( which I was lucky to be able to DL last year ) it´s s described how to adjust the Plunger type switch itself so it´s positioned 0,8 mm from the V-thing notch.

Checking my plunger-type switch ( black ) I see it´sits much closer but as far as I can see there´s no way to adjust it as the holes for the two screws are just circular- not oval as the (Newer?) Gray switches seem to have, allowing them to be adjusted ..

Question 2; How to adjust my black switch??



Any input is higly appreciated!

Henrik F

 

[nola mike]

Plunger switch isn't the problem, as the shift plate shouldn't move at all going into gear. Not sure if the plate torque, but iirc that bolt is shouldered so shouldn't be able to hinder plate movement with over tightening (and if it was loose that would make it less likely to stall). Disconnect the shift cable at the plate and try shifting with the cable. Should have almost no resistance.

 

[tank1949]

My guess, having adjusted several Alphas, is parts are worn past tolerances. You have a 97 OLD boat. If salt used, I know it is worn. Look for slop after making sure switch is functioning. Don't be discouraged. Any adjustment should be made with outdrive in the water. On a trailer is fine, but in the water, prop/water pressure causes changes-resistance.

 

[ROY WILLIAMS]

If the interrupter switch take it out and inspect it of the ohmmeter ....also the electrical contacts and the lube components .
then it was not working , take out the outdrive, and inspect that shift cable ....

 

[Happygolucky]

Plunger switch isn't the problem, as the shift plate shouldn't move at all going into gear. Not sure if the plate torque, but iirc that bolt is shouldered so shouldn't be able to hinder plate movement with over tightening (and if it was loose that would make it less likely to stall). Disconnect the shift cable at the plate and try shifting with the cable. Should have almost no resistance.

Thanks for quick reply !! Ok so with boat in water; - engine off- I disconnect the cable at the plate and then test to shift by pulling/ pushing the cable !?
If it´s making a any resistance then the cable is the culprit !?

 

[Bt Doctur]

If the switch is activating GOING INTO GEAR you need a new lower shift cable
Also the shift assist plunger has the habit of ruining the control cable to the helm
Try removing it and test without it.

 

[Happygolucky]

My guess, having adjusted several Alphas, is parts are worn past tolerances. You have a 97 OLD boat. If salt used, I know it is worn. Look for slop after making sure switch is functioning. Don't be discouraged. Any adjustment should be made with outdrive in the water. On a trailer is fine, but in the water, prop/water pressure causes changes-resistance.

Thanks - indeed old boat but new to me so I´m not sure what has been replaced over the years .. Was the Plunger type shift switch introduced already 97 or is it of later date !?

 

[Happygolucky]

If the switch is activating GOING INTO GEAR you need a new lower shift cable
Also the shift assist plunger has the habit of ruining the control cable to the helm
Try removing it and test without it.

Aha, interesting - Now that I see you write it I do recall this is mentioned in some older thread !
Will try to remove the shift assist as a first step.

I´v just had the boat in the water for the season - not keen on having to land it on the dry for a new cable, before season over.. no way of trailing it on my own.)

 

[Happygolucky]

My guess, having adjusted several Alphas, is parts are worn past tolerances. You have a 97 OLD boat. If salt used, I know it is worn. Look for slop after making sure switch is functioning. Don't be discouraged. Any adjustment should be made with outdrive in the water. On a trailer is fine, but in the water, prop/water pressure causes changes-resistance.

Thanks , yes in water but also IN Gear ?!

 

[Happygolucky]

If the interrupter switch take it out and inspect it of the ohmmeter ....also the electrical contacts and the lube components .
then it was not working , take out the outdrive, and inspect that shift cable ....

I'm quite sure the switch itself is working as it do cut out the ignition - only at wrong occasions randomly.. did lube the pivot points acc. to #14 service manual

 

[nola mike]

You can disconnect, check, and install new cable on land. Final adjustments to be made on the water if needed. Properly working SIS only gets triggered coming out of gear on the water. Otherwise not enough resistance on the prop.

 

[Scott06]

Thanks for quick reply !! Ok so with boat in water; - engine off- I disconnect the cable at the plate and then test to shift by pulling/ pushing the cable !?
If it´s making a any resistance then the cable is the culprit !?

Yes should take little effort like shift with two fingers. if it is hanging up jank drive and see if it is cable (likely) or shift rod and swivel shaft in bellhousing. Can get junk where the shaft slide is

 

[Happygolucky]

Plunger switch isn't the problem, as the shift plate shouldn't move at all going into gear. Not sure if the plate torque, but iirc that bolt is shouldered so shouldn't be able to hinder plate movement with over tightening (and if it was loose that would make it less likely to stall). Disconnect the shift cable at the plate and try shifting with the cable. Should have almost no resistance.

Disconnected the cable today , I could pull/ push it with two fingers without feeling much resistance..

 

[ROY WILLIAMS]

Disconnected the cable today , I could pull/ push it with two fingers without feeling much resistance..

the ignition switch of the interrupter is the ohm meter ... take out the wires of that switch .. did you the finger of the switch pin finger and the resistance zero ohms and then not do that finger pin ..higher resistance ..
your switch is changing it ...

 

[Happygolucky]

the ignition switch of the interrupter is the ohm meter ... take out the wires of that switch .. did you the finger of the switch pin finger and the resistance zero ohms and then not do that finger pin ..higher resistance ..
your switch is changing it ...

I believe the switch is working as it do cut out the engine, unfortunately also when it´s not supposed to..

 

[nola mike]

I believe the switch is working as it do cut out the engine, unfortunately also when it´s not supposed to..

That looks pretty smooth. Is the shift plate moving when you shift with the engine off? On muffs? On the water? Did you try leaving the shift assist plunger disconnected like BT suggested? You said the plate now moves easily with everything disconnected, and snaps back centered? See what happens when you move the throttle with the lower cable only disconnected, the plate shouldn't move at all.

 

[Happygolucky]

That looks pretty smooth. Is the shift plate moving when you shift with the engine off? On muffs? On the water? Did you try leaving the shift assist plunger disconnected like BT suggested? You said the plate now moves easily with everything disconnected, and snaps back centered? See what happens when you move the throttle with the lower cable only disconnected, the plate shouldn't move at all.

Hi again, I disconnected the Shift Assist plunger and took the boat for a testdrive, I repeatedly went in and out of gear trying to be firm when shifting (as I previously might have been doing it a bit hesitantly during eg. docking situations).
Still; once every other time the engine died during shifting -especially going into reverse. What I realized is that there were actually some seconds passing after shifting before the engine did die … hm So perhaps after all this is NOT related to the SIS …!?!
Today I got myself an automotive multimeter capable of reading RPM and I did a brief attempt to adjust the Idle screw to increase the Idle RPM .
Acc. to the meter the rpm is a bit shaky !?or is this normal behavior?
Engine in neutral & at working temp.
( I did NOT put the TBV into base timing as I was unsure what cable to look for..) and as the heat exchanger is blocking easy access to the Idle mixture screw, I didn’t attempt any adjustment of that either so far.

 

[04fxdwgi25]

The Alpha drive service manuals have every detailed adjustment instructions.

 

[Happygolucky]

seems as adjusting the idle screw did improve the performance, went out on the water today and had no issues with dying engine while shifting, made docking a bit more relaxed..

 

[flashback]

I wouldn't worry about the mm bouncing looks like your in the high 7s. As long as your idle speed is 4-5 mph your good..