Shift arm pivot pin

[bobhietala]

I see I am not the first one to take out the pivot pin thinking it was the drain plug. My question is though will the boat shift if the pin is not in correctly? I could not remove the pin or tighten it, it just spun after I put it back in. I tested the boat after reading all of the forums about people who have done this and it seems to work. The prop freely spins in neutral, and does not freely spin in reverse or forward. I tested with the muffs on too and the prop goes into forward and reverse and neutral. Doesn't seem to shift hard but it is a little noisy. If the pin is not in place would this all still work? If it is in place should I seal it in so it doesn't back out ?

1995 125HP Force Outboard.


Thanks.

Bob

 

[roscoe]

Welcome to iboats.

Sorry, it is not in place.
I have seen this before, but shortly after trying to use the motor, the thing let loose and did bunch of damage.

I would not start that engine.
The parts must align properly AND screw must tighten up.
Guessing that the "fork" is pushed to one side, so not aligned properly.
Fix it properly unless willing to replace it,

A bit more, you do not have a 1995 125 hp motor.
The last year to the 125 was 1989/1990.

If you can provide the model number, we can id it for you.

Lacking a model number, we might still be able to narrow it down with a serial number.

 

[bobhietala]

Perfect. Thank you. Ill have to take the gearcase off then and see if I can push the pin out from the inside. OR see whats going on. The model number is 1258F8C Serial number is 1269. Needless to say, first time boat owner. I appreciate the insight. It will sit until I get it working correctly.

Bob

 

[roscoe]

You have a 1988 model.

1258F8C

You should be able to get it together properly by removing the gearcase, then the water pump and plate off the top of the gearcase.


After you get it all straightened out, then fill the screw head with silicone so no one ever removes it by accident.

 

[bobhietala]

I have a manual for the motor. I don't see any seals that would need to be replaced. Are there seals that i should know about and get ahead of time?

Thanks again for your help.

Bob

 

[kbh121956]

While you have it apart, when was the last time the water impeller was changed? When you drained the gear oil was there any sign of water? If no water and the impeller is good, and your gaskets are good, put it back together. Do put some silicone where the pivot pin is. Use a marine grade gear oil.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Was there water in the oil?
No? then I wouldn't worry about the seals.

If you run in salt water, the shift shaft seal is something that could be replaced while your working.
The aluminum and salt water corrode and corrosion build up around the seal.
That causes the seal to compress and push on the shaft making it hard to shift.
It's an easy fix while the cover's off.

 

[bobhietala]

The oil didn't seem to have any evidence of water. I just didn't know if there was a gasket between the gearcase and the lower unit. I have no idea when the impeller was changed. Also, the manual says to take the prop off first, but is this just for ease of handling? Not sure why the prop would have to come off if I am not taking out the guts. I just got the boat and mucked it up straight away. I am using Quicksilver gear lube in the gear case. I will be sure to silicone the pin for sure. I will try to get it apart this weekend and see what i see. Thanks. Bob

 

[jerryjerry05]

The gearcase is the lower unit.
Change the impeller while it's off.

 

[kbh121956]

Bob, You do not need to remove the prop. It is a little heavy to handle by yourself, if you can get a buddy to help. I would replace the water pump impeller while you have the lower removed. Good choice of gear lube.

 

[jerryjerry05]

They suggest removing the prop for safety.
The unit can fall out real easy and the blades can hurt.
Also if the props stuck it's easier to work on it while it's on the drive.
As your trying to remove you'll find out if it's stuck???

But I always put the prop back on before I reinstall.
That way you can spin the prop to move the driveshaft to align the splines,
a pair of vice-grips works too. Make sure it's in gear before install.

 

[bobhietala]

Thank you again guys. Sorry for my ignorance on terminology. I had been reading where people said it wasn't necessary to remove the whole lower unit to reach the pivot pin but just the gear case. In any case, is there a gasket on the top part of the gear case where it meets the motor? I don't see anything on the diagram. I will replace the impeller while I am in there. Thanks for the info everyone. I will keep you posted on how the job goes. I hope to get to it this weekend. I will remove the prop, I think it will make it easier to work on. Thanks for the advice all.

Bob

 

[The Force power]

Thank you again guys. Sorry for my ignorance on terminology. I had been reading where people said it wasn't necessary to remove the whole lower unit to reach the pivot pin but just the gear case. In any case, is there a gasket on the top part of the gear case where it meets the motor? I don't see anything on the diagram. I will replace the impeller while I am in there. Thanks for the info everyone. I will keep you posted on how the job goes. I hope to get to it this weekend. I will remove the prop, I think it will make it easier to work on. Thanks for the advice all.

Bob

it is easier to do when you have the lower-unit removed (you're doing the Impeller-replacement anyways)
that way you can hold/move/adjust the shift-shaft to line-up the shift-pin (check the condition of the O-ring that's on the pin)
(no gasket on top part of gear case, where meets motor, if I think what you mean)

worst case you have to remove the gear assembly reverse/prop-shaft/dog-clutch but you can leave the Drive-shaft/pinion-gear and forward-gear.

tilt the Lower-unit with the opening to the sky and move it around, with aid of a flashlight you will find the Yoke that has fallen off the shift-pin when the Pivot-pin was accidentally removed.

now the tricky part as the yoke is not magnetic to fish it trough the prop shaft opening from the forward-gear.

once the pivot-pin is back in its place and the Coupling moves back and forth as it should, apply a small amount of marine-grease on the yoke/shift-pin(to keep it from falling off) also make sure the yoke's opening is facing down

have the coupling facing toward the shift-pin and yoke(moving it in place by puling/pushing the Shift-shaft
now slowly start pushing the prop-shaft and all parts attached into the lower-unit.

make sure the yoke lines up with the coupler behind the forward-gear, when it latches together; you'll see the shift-shaft come up

 

[jerryjerry05]

There's a seal a formed rubber o-ring.
Usually under $4
Use a gasket sealer(rtv) and tuorqe to specs(70 inch pounds) when reinstalling.
Make sure you clean the threads and screws when reinstalling.
Use grease on them.

SEAL, O-RING, GEAR HOUSING COVER 54030

 

[bobhietala]

OK guys. I need some advice on what to do here. I got the LU off no problem. Used a ratchet strap to help me lower it and other than having the wife tilt the motor I got it off solo. Impeller looks good. It is offset so I am assuming it is correct to have some of the fins scrunched on one side? I got the housing off and oil out and guess what ? The pin is seated where it should be. Here is the rub. The pin still will not tighten or loosen. If I use an extractor itll have a hole in it...so I am assuming somehow I stripped the threads. My idea is to silicone it in place, then tap the hole and put a pipe end in to keep it from wiggling around. Even if I get it out the threads are still stripped so I'm not sure how to resolve that. Eveything inside is as it should be. they yolk is riding right, the pivot pin is in place.

Thoughts?

 

[jerryjerry05]

The impeller vanes should be straight from the hub.
The curves in the vanes means it's OLD and need replacing.

The pivot pin, since it's stripped(soft aluminum) it might leak?
The gears move and friction causes heat, heat expands the oil and pushes it past the seal.

You can try removing and using something like liquid aluminum or marine tex to build up the threads.
Maybe a Heli-coil?
Just make sure the pins in right as you only get 1 bite at this apple.
Double clean the area and remove the paint so the LA or MT can get a hold.
Find someone to weld the hole and fill with aluminum?

 

[bobhietala]

Thanks. I ordered an impeller kit. Still not sure what I am going to do I the pin. It clearly in the right spot. Thanks again.