service manual

2MADAKAT

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 13, 2004
Messages
143
I am looking to buy a service manual for my 1990? 115HP ELTD Yamaha outboard. I want one that will be detailed enough to help me do my own maintenance. <br /> Any Suggestions?<br /><br />Does anyone have a website to confirm the age of the motor based on the serial number?
 

rodbolt

Supreme Mariner
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Sep 1, 2003
Messages
20,066
Re: service manual

Electric start, Long 20" shaft, Trim and D is a 1990 model. for routine maint a seloc or clymers will assist. the factory manual for that year was rather spotty.
 

2MADAKAT

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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May 13, 2004
Messages
143
Re: service manual

Thank you Rodbolt. I was afraid to buy just any manual because I have worked on cars and find the Chiltons and the other major one junk. Not enough detail on how to tear something done and put it back. I didn't want to waste my money on this manual as I am still struggling with my problem on no high rpms I mentioned in previous posting. Tore apart the fuel/water separator tonight and it was in great shape. Hoses are new, fuel pump cleaned out and has new rubber diaphragm, and carbs redone. I guess it's time to use your suggestion on a vacuum guage. I hope the manual gives me some tips on using it.
 

rodbolt

Supreme Mariner
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20,066
Re: service manual

it most likly wont. neither will the factory one. in the 2002 tech manual there is a procedure. but its mostly common sense.<br /> restate your problems and when it last ran ok and what transpired since the last time it ran ok and now.
 

2MADAKAT

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Re: service manual

Boat is 1984 bayliner capri 19.5' bowrider with a 1990 Yamaha 115HP outboard.<br />Motor was rebuilt last fall. New pistons, rings, water pump, gaskets, carbs rebuilt, new 21" prop. The oil injection was taken off but the little bottle was left on the motor with oil in it to stop an alarm that was going off intermittenly. I had a 2stroke 9.9 that I was running off the same gas tank and that was the main reason for getting rid of the oil injection. On the test run, the motor started fine, ran smooth and quiet, and smoked a little. When putting the throttle down though, it would run up to 3900-4000 rpm and then start to stutter and rpms would fall off to 3000rpm. I would then have to back off throttle and then gradually ramp it up to 3000 rpm, approx. 20-23 mph.<br />My friend went for a ride with me and he pumped the primer ball by hand while I had the throttle down and we got up to 4500 rpm smoothly and held it until he couldn't squeeze the ball anymore. He then put new hoses and primer ball on and put a new rubber diaphram in the fuel pump.<br />He ran boat and it seemed okay then problem started again.<br />I changed prop to 19" and boat got up to 5000 rpm before stuttering and dropping rpms again. Now it would run steady at 3500 rpm but only do 23 mph. I took it up north to an inland lake to ski and fish with. One day the water was like glass and I pushed it full throttle. The boat jumped out of the water and hit 5200 rpm at about 42mph but only for about 15 seconds and then it started stuttering again and I had to back the throttle off to nuetral and bring it back up to 3500 rpm to smooth out the ride. That was the most I had ever seen out of the motor.<br />One thing that bothered me, was the gas that leaked in the water when we were sitting still. My friend saw that the little oil bottle was nearly empty and thinks it was leaking into motor causing the smoking and gas stain on water.<br />As I mentioned earlier, I tore the water/fuel separator apart and it was clean as was gas that dumped out. All hoses were clean and not pinched anywhere. The boat runs good at low rpm so I don't think there is a major problem but it sure is frustrating me as I have never worked on marine engines before and don't know where to look.<br />Your vacuum test sounds like a start but I do not know where to hook it up to test.<br />I sure would appreciate any help. One last thought: the boat had a new transom put on and it was raised 3-1/2". My friend owned the boat prior to me and had no problem with this height with the same motor on it. Could this affect it when it gets up on plane.
 

rodbolt

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20,066
Re: service manual

ok<br /> fuel on the water will indicate a cyl not fireing or a bad fuel pump diaphram. you can remove the oil bottle and just leave the harness unplugged. by pumping the bulb either the pump was being assisted or the pump was being bypassed. hook the vacum gauge up with a T fitting at the inlet side of the engine filter. at or near WOT you should have less than 4" Hg. if its greater back up to the upstream side of the next connector. the quick connect is the next. if vacum is less than 4"Hg the problem will be in the connector, most likly on the engine side one. if its still greater than 4"hg move back to the inlet side of the water seperator and retest.<br /> a quick test is to attach a remote tank that is known good directly to the engine filter. if it now runs well its hull related if it still does not perform its engine side. double check that pump or just replace it. I dont bother rebuilding them anymore cause they are less than 40 dollars new. you can unbolt the pump and look through the pulse hole. if you see raw fuel on the block side of the diaphram odds are its leaking.
 

2MADAKAT

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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May 13, 2004
Messages
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Re: service manual

Thanks for the tips Rodbolt. I will be trying them this weekend and let you know. <br />I'm thinking that if one cylinder wasn't firing the motor would run terrible so I'm leaning toward the fuel filter. I had taken the spark plugs out and they were both the same, clean on contacts, a little carbon around threads.<br />Can I leave the little oil bottle attached and just unplug the harness? This way I won't lose the parts if I ever get a 4stroke kicker.
 

rodbolt

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Re: service manual

did ya remove the oil pump drive shaft? if you did not your begging for a problem.
 

2MADAKAT

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Re: service manual

I'm not sure what that is or even where it's located.
 

bossee

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Jul 18, 2002
Messages
727
Re: service manual

Hi,<br />Go to Yamaha US Outboard website.<br />Parts & Service<br />View Parts Catalog
 

2MADAKAT

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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May 13, 2004
Messages
143
Re: service manual

Thanks for website Bo. I do not see a part called the oil pump driveshaft but am wondering if it is the gear that is part #16 on the exploded diagram.<br />Rodbolt, what kind of problems will I have if this driveshaft is not removed? Is there anything else that has to be done when removing this part?
 

cpj

Ensign
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Jun 14, 2005
Messages
958
Re: service manual

pull the oil pump off and the driveshaft is behind it.
 

2MADAKAT

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 13, 2004
Messages
143
Re: service manual

I will as I get more familiar with this motor. I have only done winterizing and spark plug changes on marine motors up til today.<br /><br />To Rodbolt: I took the fuel filter off today, first time I have ever done anything like this.<br />I learned that two bolts hold the unit to the block and the other three hold the pump together.<br />I took all five off at once and the metal cover of the fuel pump came off. I noticed a very slow gas leak coming through two little nuts in the pump body. I will be attaching a picture. The two gas lines are still attached at this point.<br />All of a sudden the black body comes away from block and a little metal disc fall out. Now what.<br />So I take the fuel line off and pull the body out.<br />I shifted one of the little "light bulb shaped" plates and tightened all the screws. I peeled back part of the diaphragm to see if gas was on the other side and it curled up like an old shingle. Now I am trying to figure out how I am going to hold the disc onto the spring, pull down the diaphragm and put the body back on. After a couple of tries, I just kept thinking Rodbolt must have a heck of a lot of patience to be doing this kind of work. Anyways, I manage to get two of the screw back in, when the whole body comes off in my hand. NOW, I see how it works. I close up the body, remount it and hook up all the wires. It starts and runs up to 5500 rpm in the driveway both in neutral and in gear. but I know this is not under load, so I have a water test to do next. <br />I am still wondering about the problem the oil pump driveshaft will cause. Is it hard to remove?<br />
2004_0413boat0015.jpg
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<br />By the way, the last picture shows the two gasket set up on cover. It had a light tear on right hand side which I put some gasket material on for now.
 

cpj

Ensign
Joined
Jun 14, 2005
Messages
958
Re: service manual

The oil driveshaft is not hard to remove.Just remove the oil pump,then remove the shaft that is behind it.As far as you running it in the driveway,5500 rpm is WAY TO FAST.Everyone says that 2000 is the max if you are running it on muffs.Some also say not to put it in gear unless you are in the water.
 

2MADAKAT

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 13, 2004
Messages
143
Re: service manual

cpj,<br /> Does the pump need to be replaced after removing the drive shaft? I was not aware there were rpm limits on muffs but I only held it there momentarily to see if it would stutter. The real test will be in the water. If you couldn't put it in gear on land, then how would you know if an engine is working right if you were buying a boat and couldn't do a water test?
 

cpj

Ensign
Joined
Jun 14, 2005
Messages
958
Re: service manual

2mad,<br />I dont know or completly agree with not putting it in gear on muffs.I dont see the problem(someone enlighten me please)with running it in gear on muffs,but overeving (out of water)causes alot of bad vibrations that your outboard doesnt like.Yes the pump needs to be replaced after removing the driveshaft.Some one says to plug the hole where the shaft once was,I just put the pump back on.(I have a 1985 yammy 115)when you remove the harness from the oil tank,"IF" it is the same as mine, you will get the yellow "hey stupid add some oil" light,because the switch on my 85 is normally closed,so if you unplug it thinks that it is low on oil.Yours may or not be the same,I can only speak for my motor.Even though you are switching to premix go to this site and learn a thing or two.<br /> http://www.bassandwalleyeboats.com/output.cfm?id=942859
 
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