Serial number cannot be found but we have the casting number

perreau

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Oct 23, 2013
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Hi guys, we are looking at a block but not sure what it is. Its a V6 block made on 6/25/1996 with casting number 884-9765-01.

May we please know the HP and liters of the block?

Thanks
 

wired247

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Re: Serial number cannot be found but we have the casting number

Theres nothing on the top welch plug? Should be a serial number located there. How about the carburetors. They should be WMV series Look on the side of the flange where it mates up up with the silencer . There will be a 5-1 or 3-1 or 1-1 on the top carb and 5-2 or 3-2 or something like that on the second and 5-3 or 3-3 on the bottom. The first number is the identifier of the carburetor and that will tell you what the carbs came on at least.

That block casting number doesnt tell you whether its a 2.0 or 2.5. If you get really stumped you could always pull a head off and measure the bore to tell you if its a 2.0 block and if its a 2.5 you can see if its a 200 or 175. If its just a block you are looking at just measure the bore and see if it has idle reliefs above the exhaust port..
 

MAtkins

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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May 20, 2013
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136
Re: Serial number cannot be found but we have the casting number

See if there's a metal plate on the transom.
 

perreau

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Oct 23, 2013
Messages
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Re: Serial number cannot be found but we have the casting number

I will check that block again tomorrow and see if i can spot the stuff you guys mentioned. Maybe post some pics.

Meanwhile. since you explained a bit about carbs, i have two sets. the set i am using and a spare set.

The set i am using is a WMV with 1-1A, 1-2A, 1-3A on the sides, 34-310 on the butterflies, and part no. 3326-828272-0

The spare set is a WMH with 34-1, 34-2, 34-3 on the sides, 34-311 on the butterflies, and part no. 3311-821687 C

Which one will give me more performance? And engines are they for?
 

wired247

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Re: Serial number cannot be found but we have the casting number

Forget about those 3326-828272 blah blah blah casting numbers. They mean nothing but people always advertise them as part numbers. The real numbers are the series and model numbers which in your case are WMV-1 and WMH-36.

The WMV-1's are 135 HP carbs. Thats not to say they are junk. All WMV's use the same throttle bore size and those are jetted for a 135. If you run them you just need to jet to the motor you are using them on. For $40 worth of jets they can used on a 200 HP motor and perform exactly like a WMV-5 set.

The WMH-34's are 200 HP carbs for 94-95. Good carbs with large throttle bores but depending on what you use them on might need to be rejetted.

You see a lot of comments about how to raise the performance of 135's and 150's . I see a lot of suggestions about using 200 carbs on them. Dumb idea. The WMV-1's you have . Those are 135 carbs and are jetted accordingly. Like I said they have 1.310 throttle bores already and would work great even on a 200 if rejetted. If you took those WMH 34's and pout them on a 135 it would run pig rich all the time and not go any faster until its rejetted. Some years had small throttle bores and can really benefit from larger throttle bores . In some years it made no difference as they smaller HP motors already had big bore carbs with jetting to match their engines bore, porting and exhaust configuration
 

perreau

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Oct 23, 2013
Messages
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Re: Serial number cannot be found but we have the casting number

Now it makes sense why my 150HP engine was not performing up to speed, i was using 135HP carbs on it right?
 

wired247

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Re: Serial number cannot be found but we have the casting number

The 135's and the 150 carbs are almost identical that year. A little richer jetting on the 150 carbs but thats it. Even the 200 HP WMV's are the same carbs with different jetting. Jetting up alone wont make it run better. The 150 has a shorter tuner and runs at a little higher RPM and is spec's with a little more timing. If you want a 150 to run well first off figure out what motor you have. Is it a 2.0 or 2.5? Drop the lower and look up in the housing and see what tuner you have. If its over a foot long you need to shorten it or put a different tuner in there. If its a 2.5 put 32-34 cc heads. If its a 2.0 put 28-30 cc heads on there and run premium gas. Pull off the idle stabilizer , set the timing at 23 degrees and jet the carbs a wee bit richer than stock 150's. It will run up to 6500 or better with a strong mid range.

How do you know it was a 150. WMV-1's are 135 carbs. Sure it wasnt a 135?
 

perreau

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Oct 23, 2013
Messages
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Re: Serial number cannot be found but we have the casting number

These motors are so old they have turned into all sorts of cocktails. The block is now blown. We are finding out what caused it to blow now. That is why i am trying to source a better block, preferably a 2.5. The serial number (0D167071), which i gave u guys when trying to find out if its a 2.0 or 2.5 showed this block as a 2.0.

Depending on which block i manage to get, i will then seek advice from you to see which of the two sets of carbs will suit the setup better.

The challenge for me is to know if my WMV carb is for 135 or 150. I guess i might as well get a 200hp block, but will i be able to mod my mid to get this to work as a 200?
 

perreau

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Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
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Re: Serial number cannot be found but we have the casting number

I will check that block again tomorrow and see if i can spot the stuff you guys mentioned. Maybe post some pics.

Meanwhile. since you explained a bit about carbs, i have two sets. the set i am using and a spare set.

The set i am using is a WMV with 1-1A, 1-2A, 1-3A on the sides, 34-310 on the butterflies, and part no. 3326-828272-0

The spare set is a WMH with 34-1, 34-2, 34-3 on the sides, 34-311 on the butterflies, and part no. 3311-821687 C

Which one will give me more performance? And engines are they for?

Hi guys, i finally managed to get my block sorted and its all ready to go now. I am using a 150HP 2.0L block.

Which carburetor set will get me better performance between the two sets above? Not really bothered about fuel economy but would rather have better speed.

I also got a set of WMH 13-1, 13-2, 13-3 which came with the replacement block i bought.

So which one do i go for please?

Eagerly awaiting your advice. :)
 

Dukedog

Captain
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Oct 6, 2009
Messages
3,441
Re: Serial number cannot be found but we have the casting number

1's or 13's. Sent ya a PM for a site address ya can use.............

Whats tha date on tha block your usin'?

Tha 2.0 block is just that even being a "fat" block. Takes a lotta $ to make horse power outta one of those. And it will always be a piston port 2.0 motor...........jmo
 
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perreau

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Oct 23, 2013
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Re: Serial number cannot be found but we have the casting number

Its a 91 or 92 if i remember correctly. I know it aint a speed master...but i want to squeeze the most i can out of it ;) So its best i stick with the 1's already on it then?
 

Dukedog

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Re: Serial number cannot be found but we have the casting number

Tha wmv is a better and later model carb....jmo

What kinda boat?
 
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Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,931
Re: Serial number cannot be found but we have the casting number

So its best i stick with the 1's already on it then?
Yep as they are 150 series. Carbs are stamped with a series(WMH-XX) and yes use the same castings. The differences between horsepowers are: emulslon tubes,off-idle tube,air calibration screw setting(not the mixture screws) main discharge inlet and discharge tubes. On the WH series all these as cast in place from factory..
 

wired247

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Re: Serial number cannot be found but we have the casting number

Nothing wrong with WMV 1's. Jet them as a WMV-2 set is jetted, mill the snot out of the heads ( I have a set of 28 cc heads that are perfect for you for a good price if you want them ) and use premium gas with 23 degree timing. Remove all the "warranty electronics" black boxes and run premix and you can run that thing up to 7K. You probably have the right tuner in there already. Use a 17-19 pitch prop and you will pull strong up to the low 60's with the right hull.
 

perreau

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Oct 23, 2013
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Re: Serial number cannot be found but we have the casting number

wired247, that's inspiring, even if i did not understand half of what you said ;) Can't i get the jets out of the other carbs i mentioned and do some kind of cocktail? (mill the snot out of the heads) Whats that? I have plenty of spare heads...cant i practice on some? I am already running pre-mix but we dont have premium gas here. I am going to set my timing to 23 deg and remove idle control box etc.

The boat is a Shakespeare. See here:

IMG_00001974.jpgIMG_00001979.jpg

Dukedog, the transom height is 28", the engine is XL shaft so 25", that means that the cavitation plate will be slightly higher than it should, like 3" higher right? Is that OK? I will use my Laser II 19 Pitch if i manage to sort out its bush.

Is that setup ok?
 

wired247

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Re: Serial number cannot be found but we have the casting number

If you have the abaility to mill the heads then by all means go for it. If they are 38-42 CC heads you will have a LOT of metal to take off. .050" or more to get to 28-30 cc. Keep them straight and check cc's as you go with light cuts and a smooth finish.

If you have the right jets from other carbs use them. If not a whole set of jets runs about $50.

If you are asking if the antiventilation plate should be 3" above the bottom of the hull you have a LONG way to go. It needs to be more like 7 inches or higher . Stop thinking about the anti ventilation plate. Its out of the water when you are running on a performance boat. Think about the prop shaft and its relationship to the bottom of the hull. When the shaft is parallel with the hull it should be 3-4" below the bottom of the hull. On the boat in the pic you absolutely do not want a 25 inch mid section motor. 20" is almost too much. Forget about that antiventilation plate being in the water crap. I don't know who came up with that drivel.
 

perreau

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Oct 23, 2013
Messages
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Re: Serial number cannot be found but we have the casting number

How do i know what heads i have? I will try using the 20" mid i have as spare at a later date as i assume its a bit of work to change mids right?
 

wired247

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Re: Serial number cannot be found but we have the casting number

Its a pain to change mids but its only a days work. Keeps you out of the bars.

It doesnt matter what heads you use. You have to cut them anyway. 2.5 liter heads are easier because the chambers are wider and the cuts take more CC's out at a whack but if you arent paying a machinist by the cut it doesnt matter much what you use. . OK. You don't HAVE to cut them but it will run MUCH better off idle and mid range if you do. If you cant get premium gas ( 91 octane ) then dont cut the heads to 28 CC. Keep them more like 31 CC.
 

perreau

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Oct 23, 2013
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Re: Serial number cannot be found but we have the casting number

Thanks for the help wired247, i will try my best to get this to work. :)
 

perreau

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Oct 23, 2013
Messages
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Re: Serial number cannot be found but we have the casting number

Guys, i tried to tell my mechanic to run 23 deg timing and it seems i confused the hell out of him lol

He is used to setting timing with the idle control box in place. I think he set the idle timing to 2 deg and the WOT to 23deg. Is that right? If its not....please tell me what to set at cranking....at idle...at idle in gear...and at WOT so that i can inform him :(
 
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