Seeking your knowledge on SX-M maint.

[River Pete]

Howdy. We are new to this boat and I/o style of boats. Picked up a 2000 Monterey 198 LS with 5.0 GL-c and SX-M. Initially had problems with the motor but got that sorted and on the initial test run, notes a vibration from the rear, especially with turns under load.
Notes the prop has play and what feels like a slight rub inside with manual turning of the prop. Since I know little about this I have been reviewing the manuals and procedure for removal and maintenance of this unit. Doesn’t seem tough but since “fear is the lack of knowledge/understanding”, can you give me a realistic idea of the entire process through the gimbal bearings replacement/alignment. (basically a new to me drive and I want to get everything set for my piece of mind).
I will need everything tool wise and don’t mind buying them so I have them in the collection for the future.
What do I realistically need for removal by myself? Solo cart a must have? What sort of time frame should I expect on the whole process? I just don’t know…

(Have lots of mechanical experience mostly smaller stuff, some moderate auto jobs and tractor rebuild/maint., motorcycles, snowmobiles, quads, sxs, golf cart, etc…)
Thanks for the advise/encouragement/warnings….

 

[alldodge]

can you give me a realistic idea of the entire process through the gimbal bearings replacement/alignment. (basically a new to me drive and I want to get everything set for my piece of mind).
I will need everything tool wise and don’t mind buying them so I have them in the collection for the future.
What do I realistically need for removal by myself? Solo cart a must have?

This is a very large question
Not a VP guy but if I was being asked the same thing about a Merc Bravo there would be several paragraphs

You mentioned you have the manuals and they will list the tools and procedures needed. I did same thing when unable to find a quality shop to rebuild my Bravo, so I spent around $800 just to do the lower

If you have any specific questions then folks would have a easier time answering

 

[River Pete]

I suppose it is a large question -
Nothing mechanical right now, more about expectations of the timeframe I should set aside for this job, can I do it alone with the solo cart/other ways to remove the drive with one person, will it be a giant PITA for someone who has never done this job…… does this end my season?….that sorta thing. But maybe I won’t know until I just get into it and learn as I go.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,.... The drive might weigh 100 lbs, probably abit less,....

Use the trailer jack, 'n/ or a block of wood to set the elevation, so you don't really need to actually lift it,....

 

[alldodge]

Depends on your ability to understand what the manual is stating. Things like end play, run out need dial micrometer. Rolling torque need a torque wrench with a dial

My Bravo 3 weight is heavier then yours and I was still able to do it with first a engine hoist, then later got a drive rolling jack stand. Many make a 2x4 fixture and put some casters on it.

If you have ever rebuilt a auto transmission you should be able to do it, but there are several tools that will be needed.

 

[muc]

First thing that jumps out to me. An SX-M shouldn’t have ANY play at the prop. No side to side, no in or out and should have a little resistance to spinning. Might want to start with why there is play, also might be a good idea to measure how far each prop blade is from the anti-ventilation plate.

 

[Skiplewis]

Let's see if I can help with some of your specific questions.....

For background, I pulled my SX-M drive in January, replaced the exhaust and drive bellows, gimbal bearing and seal and I also painted the drive while I had it off. You'll be able to do it This isn't everything you want to do, but here is my experience with what I did...........

Yes, it will be a pain in the rear. If you're doing it yourself to save a few hundred dollars then it's a good option. However, if you plan on buying tools, you probably won't save money. I rented my bearing puller from O'Reilly which if you don't know, they give you all your money back when you bring return the tool.

You can definitely pull the drive yourself but you'll have to have some kind of stand when putting it back on. I made mine from one of those flat furniture dollies. Are you in good shape? Most likely you'll be yanking on that drive for an hour or more to work it loose. It ain't easy. I put it back on by myself, but that took at least another 2 hours. I actually had to kick on it with both feet to get it to slide on. If you're an old effer like me, you'll be worn out by the time its over.

Start to finish not including repainting, it took me two month to order all the parts, take it apart, and to put it together, but most of the time was spent researching everything. I would say I put in a good 30-40 actual working hours on it if you include all the time watching Youtube videos.. It's a pain in the a** but I'm glad I did it.

 

[alldodge]

Most likely you'll be yanking on that drive for an hour or more to work it loose. It ain't easy. I put it back on by myself, but that took at least another 2 hours. I actually had to kick on it with both feet to get it to slide on.

I like everything you said except this part

If you have a hard time remove or install then you need to get a alignment bar and adjust alignment. You should not need to have that hard a time to remove/install.

Adjust the front mounts so alignment is true and you can install with one hand. My suggestion is remove your drive and realign before you need to remove the motor to replace the engine coupler

 

[River Pete]

Thanks for the real world replies. I really do appreciate the knowledge.

Gonna mull this one over…

tempted to do it myself but the wife wants some water time this summer… neighbors buddy has a repair shop and said he could get to it this week. May go that route for now and learn to wrench more on this during the off season.