Sears/Eska 7.5hp lower crankshaft seal

[Tommy Two Stroke]

I wanted to share a success story for anyone here who might need this information. I have a 217.585930 Gamefisher, 7.5hp, and it had a blown lower crankshaft seal. The pics show the condition of the destroyed seal. Sears, Brix, and CPC all list this lower seal (p/n 510318) as being no longer available. After some extensive research with a local part supplier in my area, Applied Industrial Products, I found that SKF seal #6608 is the exact size (17mm X 27mm X 7mm) as the original 510318 seal. Also, my crankshaft was badly scored and pitted, so before installing the new lower crankshaft seal, I installed a SKF 99068 Speedi-Sleeve over the worn crank, using a thin coating of Loctite marine epoxy under the Speedi-Sleeve. Problem solved. The pics show the fix.

On these forums, there have been some who question the integrity of these older Sears/Eska engines. After completely disassembling mine, I will say that the Tecumseh powerhead is every bit as robust inside as an equivalently sized OMC engine. These Sears/Eska engines are well made, and with a little ingenuity from outside part sources, it's possible to keep them running a long time.

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: Sears/Eska 7.5hp lower crankshaft seal

no kidding, good job Cadet, you are the man, I'm getting ready to tie into one myself

 

[datsunsrule]

Re: Sears/Eska 7.5hp lower crankshaft seal

Great tip, and nice resourcefulness!!! I also have an Eska (golden jet 7), and I can definitely appreciate your fix. Parts just are not that easy to come by.

Chase

 

[datsunsrule]

Re: Sears/Eska 7.5hp lower crankshaft seal

no kidding, good job Cadet, you are the man, I'm getting ready to tie into one myself

I'm in the middle of a (Eska GoldenJet 7) restore myself, so if you have an issues, lemme know, I'm not a pro but I have some experience in eskas and would be glad to lend some advice!

Good luck!

Chase

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: Sears/Eska 7.5hp lower crankshaft seal

I'm trying to put together a test engine to be run by an electric motor, it will only have a a crankshaft and stator base to test fire the SSI units,
I need to come up with a sealed bearing for the lower and I don't know what to do with the needle bearings in the top, I guess just give them a good dose of oil between test runs? any ideas on the sealed bearing?

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: Sears/Eska 7.5hp lower crankshaft seal

check this out,

http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com... Shaft, AV817, 2 Cycle, part number 710405B#

 

[Tommy Two Stroke]

Re: Sears/Eska 7.5hp lower crankshaft seal

Mr. Crabs and Chase, thanks for the great comments. I've got the engine mostly back together and gave it a fresh coat of gray engine enamel...never was a fan of the white that Tecumseh used, I prefer the more industrial look of gray. Most everything on this engine has been updated in addition to the new lower and upper crank seals....CDI Electronics ignition module, Prufrex (OMC style) ignition coil, and stainless steel socket head cap screws that hold the water plate to the bottom of the engine, as well as the engine to the leg. Those 6- and 12-point Tecumseh screws are just plain weird and they rust so I had to get rid of them!

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: Sears/Eska 7.5hp lower crankshaft seal

CDI Electronics ignition module, Prufrex (OMC style) ignition coil

Are you talking about a CDI breaker point replacement or the SSI ?,
could you post pictures of your setup?
do you have a part no. for the ignition coil

 

[Tommy Two Stroke]

Re: Sears/Eska 7.5hp lower crankshaft seal

CDI rebuilt the SSI unit from my engine (the part that goes under the flywheel) - I sent it to them, they had it for a couple weeks, and sent it back to me after rebuilding it. It cost something like $110, I think. It's the very top one shown on page 108 of this catalog:

http://www.cdielectronics.com/downloads/CDI_Catalog.pdf

The coil that I used is a Sierra 18-5193. Various people make them for Sierra, but I've found that the Prufrex German coils seem to be the very best....typical high quality German stuff.

This is the link where I got the idea about how to change the coil to a readily available OMC style coil instead of that NLA Tecumseh coil:

http://www.ehow.com/how_4887422_solid-state-ignition-eska-outboard.html

I will take some photos of the setup and post them here.

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: Sears/Eska 7.5hp lower crankshaft seal

hey thanks, I would very much like to see what the SSI modual looks like after a repair, was it your unit that they repaired? do you know what CDI did to it? sorry for all the questions but I'm very interested in the SSI,
I called CDI and they priced the repair at 238 retail, your SSI must have tought them a lesson!....lol,

Did you know theres a timing tool thats availible, http://www.m-and-d.com/TC-670238A.html


Pics! please,

 

[Tommy Two Stroke]

Re: Sears/Eska 7.5hp lower crankshaft seal

Here is info about what's inside the Tecumseh solid state ignition modules....they're capacitive discharge ignitions, to be specific:

http://home.earthlink.net/~edstoller/id9.html

When I got mine back from CDI, they had rewound the charging coil, and the electronics module had been worked on inside and repotted.

Attached are before and after pics....the solid state ignition module by itself is shown before I sent it away to CDI. The one looking down inside the engine is after I sent it to CDI. The third photo shows the OMC style coil mounted to the same spot where the original Tecumseh coil was mounted, using a modified Simpson Strong-Tie angle bracket from Home Depot. I ran a separate ground from the rebuilt ignition module (small #6-32 screw going through tapped hole) down to the common tie point where the OMC style coil's ground attaches to the block. I wasn't getting any spark originally, due to lack of ground at the ignition module because of the grease in the round pivot point where the module rotates to change timing. This separate ground wire fixed this no-spark problem.

Sounds like CDI's prices have gone way up since I had mine rebuilt this time last year. I just checked my CDI invoice....it was $121 including shipping.

 

[Tommy Two Stroke]

Re: Sears/Eska 7.5hp lower crankshaft seal

I had no idea about the timing tool, I wonder what it actually does and what it looks like.

Interesting, also, about smallenginewarehouse.com selling the basic engine assembly for these Tecumseh/Eska outboards. That's a decent place to get engines, I bought a B&S I/C 6hp Quantum from them to repower my mower when the Tecumseh LEV that was on it bit the dust. Tecumseh LEV series = junk. Silk screened piston instead of chrome plated = engine death when silk screen coating wore out. I like the old Tecumsehs that are on these outboards, but right before Tecumseh went out of business, they were making some engines that were not very good.

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: Sears/Eska 7.5hp lower crankshaft seal

I have a little tecumseh unit block manual that has the timing procedure and a tool pattern, copyright info says I'm free to e-mail it, send me a PM with email.

 

[datsunsrule]

Re: Sears/Eska 7.5hp lower crankshaft seal

Hey guys, I'm working on a restore of a 1970's model (Golden Jet 7) Eska. Do either of you know what the shift situation is like on these. I've heard they use some kind of centrifugal clutch system, but I'm not sure. The lever coming out of the lower engine block area is disconnected from the shifting rod (attached to the lower cowl) , and the linkage connecting the two appears broken.

Thanks!!

Chase

 

[Tommy Two Stroke]

Re: Sears/Eska 7.5hp lower crankshaft seal

I'm trying to put together a test engine to be run by an electric motor, it will only have a a crankshaft and stator base to test fire the SSI units,
I need to come up with a sealed bearing for the lower and I don't know what to do with the needle bearings in the top, I guess just give them a good dose of oil between test runs? any ideas on the sealed bearing?

Sorry, I completely overlooked your question and just now noticed it. Many of the bearing manufacturers make bearings that have a plastic insert just over the bearing race on both sides of the bearing, to keep dust out. I'm sure either SKF or Timken would have one - if there's an Applied Industrial Products in your area, it's very likely they could order it for you. Both the SKF and Timken websites list standard bearing sizes - Timken's site is a lot more user friendly.

The top bearing could possibly be converted to a ball-and-race type instead of the individual needles. Check the shaft diameter at that location and it may match up with an off the shelf ball and race bearing. From what I've seen, Tecumseh seems to generally use standard shaft sizes at most locations in their engines.

 

[Tommy Two Stroke]

Re: Sears/Eska 7.5hp lower crankshaft seal

Hey guys, I'm working on a restore of a 1970's model (Golden Jet 7) Eska. Do either of you know what the shift situation is like on these. I've heard they use some kind of centrifugal clutch system, but I'm not sure. The lever coming out of the lower engine block area is disconnected from the shifting rod (attached to the lower cowl) , and the linkage connecting the two appears broken.

Thanks!!

Chase

I'm not familiar with that particular model Eska, but the ones with the clutch just below the engine base seem to eventually lose the clutch function over time and you end up with an engine that's always in gear. I have a Gamefisher 7.5, where the clutch is down by the propeller, and there's a long shift rod that goes from a bellcrank just below the engine, down to the gearbox by the propeller - but that arrangement doesn't quite sound like what you describe.

 

[datsunsrule]

Re: Sears/Eska 7.5hp lower crankshaft seal

I'm not familiar with that particular model Eska, but the ones with the clutch just below the engine base seem to eventually lose the clutch function over time and you end up with an engine that's always in gear. I have a Gamefisher 7.5, where the clutch is down by the propeller, and there's a long shift rod that goes from a bellcrank just below the engine, down to the gearbox by the propeller - but that arrangement doesn't quite sound like what you describe.

Thanks!

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: Sears/Eska 7.5hp lower crankshaft seal

I appear to have a leak in the lower radiator hose

call a tow truck