Sealing 1957 evinrude 35hp lower unit

Brackenator

Cadet
Joined
Mar 4, 2011
Messages
8
I have to put my lower unit back together after replacing the seals, and need to know for sure whether or not to use gasket sealer on the spaghetti seal. The shop that sold me the seal kit said that he just used grease to hold the seal in place. I put it together last time using this method and only had it in the barrel for about an hour, only running for a minute or so at a time trying see if the water pump would work. It didn't, so I took it back apart and found that I lost the impeller key. When I took it apart I didn't find a lot of water, none in fact, but the oil was a little turbid, more like entrained air or something. There may be a slight bit of water coming in from the shift rod seal. I didn't replace that because I didn't figure it was worn, and I didn't want to screw anything up getting it out. So, in addition to the gasket sealer question do you think I should replace the shift rod seal, if so, how should I go about fetting it out and the new one in?
 

1946Zephyr

Vice Admiral
Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
5,556
Re: Sealing 1957 evinrude 35hp lower unit

Yes, a lot of water can and will leak through there. Send F_R a private message and tell him that you want one of his shift rod seal removal tools to get the shift rod seal out.

As far as gasket sealer, I usually use permatex on those spagetti seals
 

HighTrim

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
10,486
Re: Sealing 1957 evinrude 35hp lower unit

Frank makes great tools, but if you want to get that shift rod seal out this weekend, all you need is a length of 5/16" rod. You will need a bench grinder, and taper it down to about a 1/4". This is really all you need to drive out the shift rod seal, primitive tool, but does the job. Put the gearcase on a hard surface, slide the tapered end into the seal, and smack the end of the rod with a hammer, sometimes you really have to hammer it, until it pops out. This is a real trouble spot for water intrusion, and is often skipped because guys are intimidated by removing it, but is really not a big deal. Takes longer to grind down the rod than remove the seal. While you have the gearcase apart, it would be silly to skip it. Do the whole thing and have peace of mind that you wont have any water intrusion. When re installing, use a little 3M 847 and you are good to go.

While we are talking about 847, it is really the stuff you want for resealing gearcases. I use it on the spaghetti seal as well, and they dont leak a drop. Be sure to cut that seal square, and slightly longer than you need, so that it compresses and seals as it should. Dont cut it short, or on an angle.

I just ran down and took a few pics of my tool, along with a gearcase from my 57 35hp Javelin, which is essentially the same one that you are working on. There is also a pic of the brass collar and o ring that will come out. Hope it helps.

EDIT: Photobucket is acting up right now, will post them once it is back up and running.
 

boobie

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 5, 2009
Messages
20,826
Re: Sealing 1957 evinrude 35hp lower unit

Also use 847 on any metal to metal parts when putting your water pump back together.
 

Brackenator

Cadet
Joined
Mar 4, 2011
Messages
8
Re: Sealing 1957 evinrude 35hp lower unit

Picked up the 5/16 rod, hopefully I'll get a chance to get after it tomorrow. Thanks a lot for the help. I really appreciate it. I will look around for the gasket sealer. Right now I have blue Permatex, but that probably won't be good enough, eh? One more thing, what is the small hole on the side of the lower unit. Is it a drain for the cavity the shift rod passes through?
 

lindy46

Captain
Joined
Nov 27, 2008
Messages
3,886
Re: Sealing 1957 evinrude 35hp lower unit

Picked up the 5/16 rod, hopefully I'll get a chance to get after it tomorrow. Thanks a lot for the help. I really appreciate it. I will look around for the gasket sealer. Right now I have blue Permatex, but that probably won't be good enough, eh? One more thing, what is the small hole on the side of the lower unit. Is it a drain for the cavity the shift rod passes through?

Permatex #2 works great. Yes that is a drain hole. Make sure it is clear so water and sludge can drain out.
 

Brackenator

Cadet
Joined
Mar 4, 2011
Messages
8
Re: Sealing 1957 evinrude 35hp lower unit

Permatex #2 works great. Yes that is a drain hole. Make sure it is clear so water and sludge can drain out.

Well, everything is together and sealed up, but I couldn't get that hole clear. I'm starting to wonder if it was drilled all the way through at the factory. When I look inside it with a flashlight I see the casting wall-no hole, but I'm afraid to drill it.
 

Mas

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Oct 3, 2006
Messages
1,656
Re: Sealing 1957 evinrude 35hp lower unit

I had to drill my 35 Lark's drain hole...plugged solid with oxidized aluminum:

P1030322.jpg


P1030323.jpg
 
Top