Sat for 30years

[James Rider]

I recently purchased a 1974 Chrysler Satellite Sport with a 75Hp engine model 757HA that has been sitting outside since 92. I have replaced starter, wiring, plugs, fuel, cleaned and rebuilt carb. I have spark and really good compression in all cylinders. It’s cranking like it should but refuses to show any kind of fire to start. I am getting fuel to carbs (flooded at one point). Why is it not getting to cylinders? What can I do to try and get some kind of life in it. I am absolutely positive each cylinder is firing and in proper order and timing is on point. Is this a matter of it’s just been sitting so long and needs to crank to clear out any water that may have built up? I obviously don’t want to damage anything so any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

 

[racerone]

Checked for a sheared flywheel key ?-----Does timing pointer line up with #1 at TDC ?

 

[Tassie 1]

Try spraying FUEL MIX in to the carbs,
It will only run for a few seconds ( if at all ) but that will give you an idea where to focus your efforts.

 

[James Rider]

Will do thanks

 

[James Rider]

All the marks are lined up correctly from what I’ve read. I checked on the distributor and at cylinder number one. Timing seems to be on point.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Sitting for 30 years will require the carbs to be torn down and gone thru.

The fuel system will need to be completely cleaned

The lower unit should be pulled and the raw water pump replaced

Did you just start cranking and hope?

 

[racerone]

Put some fuel into each sparkplug hole.----Put plugs in and crank it over.----It should at least bark and roar for a bit.

 

[James Rider]

I cleaned the carbs ands had to rebuild them drop the lower unit checked the new plugs for spark sprayed the cylinders to make sure they were free and put new fuel in. Tried to take all suggested steps. I haven’t cranked it over much to avoid damage. Should I be cranking it more?

 

[Nordin]

Correct timing is when top piston is at TDC, then the curved line at the distributor pulley should line up against the flywheel rim and if you have an arrow at the pulley it should be pointing to the flywheel rim perpendicular.
This is the basic setting.
Then you set the spark advance at WOT.
The advance should be 30 dgr BTDC.
It is important that the tension of the timing belt is right, when pushing at the belt perpendicular at the midpoint with a 0,008 feeler gauge the belt should deflect 1/4 of an inch when the feeler gauge start to deflect.
As this ignition system is driven by a battery you can check the spark advance setting by power the system with 12 VDC (keyswitch in ON position) , then set the distributor at max spark advance and then rotate the flywheel so the curve line at the pulley lines up with the flywheel rim.
Now by pushing the belt in gently with a screw driver the top spark plug should spark.
If not, find where it spark and then find tune the timing by adjusting the spark advance at the distributor.

 

[James Rider]

Thank you, I will check it again. I do know that the timing marks on the flywheel and the distributor are all where they should be but I will check the spark plug at those points.

 

[jerryjerry05]

You using the choke??(had to ask)
The choke only works if the key's held in when cranking.
Just one push and release does nothing.

 

[James Rider]

Yes I am using the the choke

 

[James Rider]

Small update on the engine, double checked all the timing marks today, made some adjustments to the distributor. I did finally start getting smoked from the exhaust. I am curious about setting the marks at BTDC, are the marks on the distributor still supposed to align with the flywheel? Another note I did check to see if there was a voltage drop on the distributor as the 36 deg line came around and it dropped from roughly 12.7 to 3v or so. Is this about right?

 

[Nordin]

James Rider, no my mistake about the curved line at the pulley, I must have thought about something else, sorry.
At WOT it would not align but the spark at top plug at WOT should come at 30 dgr BTDC.

 

[James Rider]

Ok thank you again for all your help and advice

 

[James Rider]

James Rider, no my mistake about the curved line at the pulley, I must have thought about something else, sorry.
At WOT it would not align but the spark at top plug at WOT should come at 30 dgr BTDC.

So I think I have it narrowed down to no spark from the distributor. Hopefully my process was correct but what I did was take the black and white wire off from the coil and turned the flywheel by hand. As I got to each cylinder I touched the wire to a ground. I could hear and follow the spark inside the distributor cap. Hooking an in-line test light up doing the same process, it lit up. I am assuming I’m losing my spark at the distributor, is that correct? Any advice? Thanks.

 

[Isa4325]

I recently purchased a 1974 Chrysler Satellite Sport with a 75Hp engine model 757HA that has been sitting outside since 92. I have replaced starter, wiring, plugs, fuel, cleaned and rebuilt carb. I have spark and really good compression in all cylinders. It’s cranking like it should but refuses to show any kind of fire to start. I am getting fuel to carbs (flooded at one point). Why is it not getting to cylinders? What can I do to try and get some kind of life in it. I am absolutely positive each cylinder is firing and in proper order and timing is on point. Is this a matter of it’s just been sitting so long and needs to crank to clear out any water that may have built up? I obviously don’t want to damage anything so any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

I have a 1973 Chrysler Outboard 707HE 70HP. I had this same problem and found a split in the diaphragm which kept fuel from being pumped to each cylinder. After repairing that problem i could see the fuel going on to each carb. I changed all my fuel lines to clear, from the shut off valve I installed to the carb's.

 

[Isa4325]

So I think I have it narrowed down to no spark from the distributor. Hopefully my process was correct but what I did was take the black and white wire off from the coil and turned the flywheel by hand. As I got to each cylinder I touched the wire to a ground. I could hear and follow the spark inside the distributor cap. Hooking an in-line test light up doing the same process, it lit up. I am assuming I’m losing my spark at the distributor, is that correct? Any advice? Thanks.

If you loose spark at the distributor it won"t have spark at the spark plugs.

 

[James Rider]

Correct and that was my question in short. Where is my likely problem at the distributor but I may have found it in the points and wires. I hope I did anyway. Plug wires were really rough looking and one was nearly out of the cap and nowhere close to its point. Thanks

 

[James Rider]

Thanks to everyone for all the help, got it fired up and going today.