Rusty Nuts and Bolts

edgutgesell

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 18, 2004
Messages
144
I have a mid 80's Easy Loader tandem trailer that I am overhauling. I have already replaced the rear drum brake assemblys and I am about to replace the front axle brake assemblys and install stainless steel brake lines. In addition, I will need to replace the equalizers between the front and back springs. So far, the most difficult problem I have had is corroded bolts. I have tried three liquid penetrants, WD40, PB Blaster, and Fluid Film. It seems that some penetrants are better than others. WD40 is really great stuff, but it isn't the best penetrant. Liquid Wrench doesn't seem more effective than WD40. Back in my hot rod days, there was a penetrant that was a foam. Spray it on a corroded nut and rap it a couple of times to vibrate the nut and it would come loose. I don't remember the name of the stuff and I have not found it in the chain auto stores in PA yet. <br /><br />What do you think is the best penetrant?? Oh, I have used heat after soaking with penetrating oil for hours with mixed results. When that didn't work, I used a KB tools "nut cracker" which has been the ultimate weapon.
 

Bob_VT

Moderator & Unofficial iBoats Historian
Staff member
Joined
May 19, 2001
Messages
26,049
Re: Rusty Nuts and Bolts

Heat the nuts with a propane torch.
 

ndemge

Commander
Joined
Jul 15, 2002
Messages
2,644
Re: Rusty Nuts and Bolts

If your replacing, anywhere you can use a sawzall, use it.<br /><br />Get a GOOD metal blade, the more $ you pay, they better they are in my experience.<br /><br />If you can find a "rescue and demolition" blade, they are amazing.
 

craze1cars

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Dec 26, 2004
Messages
1,822
Re: Rusty Nuts and Bolts

Originally posted by edgutgesell:<br /><br />What do you think is the best penetrant??
Oxy acetylene. Works every time, no waiting. If they're so rusty you can't get them off with brute force, they needed to be replaced anyway.<br /><br />Before trying that, you might hit them with a strong impact wrench and see if you can get them to spin or break off.
 

rodbolt

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 1, 2003
Messages
20,066
Re: Rusty Nuts and Bolts

I am with craze1cars<br /> oxy/acetylyne, no muss no fuss. and next time look into the newer stainless disc brakes. cheap,easy and low maint. in my area I dont even attepmt to remove many trailer fasteners, they just wont budge.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,993
Re: Rusty Nuts and Bolts

Ayuh,...............<br /><br />The Good Ole Blue-Tipped Wrench is My Friend as well...................<br />Permanently mounted in the back of My Pickup.............
 

rodbolt

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 1, 2003
Messages
20,066
Re: Rusty Nuts and Bolts

cannot be a saltwater tech without it :)
 

Scaaty

Vice Admiral
Joined
May 31, 2004
Messages
5,180
Re: Rusty Nuts and Bolts

Torch it off.....hands down...wouldn't even think of a wrench anymore :D
 

rwidman

Lieutenant
Joined
May 27, 2004
Messages
1,396
Re: Rusty Nuts and Bolts

If you can get an impact wrench on them they will be easier to remove. There is a newer formulation of Liquid Wrench that seems to be better than the original.
 

edgutgesell

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 18, 2004
Messages
144
Re: Rusty Nuts and Bolts

Thanks for the input. Since I am not in the boat/trailer business, investing in a gas welding outfit would probably be a waste of money. I will probably buy a used impact wrench (good one, snap-on etc.) on Ebay. I just checked out Ebay and there are alot available. I am doing the trailer repairs with the boat on the trailer. I have a sawsall and if I can get to the nuts and bolts with it I will use it. Thanks again!!!
 

PuddleJumper

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 6, 2005
Messages
314
Re: Rusty Nuts and Bolts

If you have an air compressor,most auto parts stores sell small air chisels.Relatively inexpense.They work great on bolts,mufflers and even chipping a hole in a brick wall.
 

craze1cars

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Dec 26, 2004
Messages
1,822
Re: Rusty Nuts and Bolts

Another cutting alternative on the cheap, especially if you don't have a compressor:<br /><br />Buy a 4.5 inch angle grinder, and buy 1/16 or 1/8 inch thick cut-off wheels that fit it, most angle grinders will take 4 inch cutoff wheels that have a 7/8 inch arbor. Discounters like Harbor Freight Tools could set you up with such a perfectly functional angle grinder and 10 pack of cut-offs for about $30. Would work much better and faster than a Sawsall, and would allow you to get into areas that don't have room for the blade to reciprocate. No need for a compressor either. But if you do have a compressor, buy a cut-off tool and wheels for it, they're cheap also.
 

edgutgesell

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 18, 2004
Messages
144
Re: Rusty Nuts and Bolts

I have two compressors, one is a 5HP 220V twin cylinder with 50 gal tank that I use mostly for spray painting, and a Porter Cable portable twin tank that I use for driving my air nailers. I do have an air chisel if I can find it! I didn't think of that!!! I also like the suggested air cut-off tools. <br /><br />This web site is great. I had some problems with my 150HP Yamaha and the people such as Rodbolt and Ray Neudecker on this site directed me to resolutions that I could handle on my own. Saved alot of money in the process and I know much more about my Yamaha OB than I did a year ago!
 
Top