Rusted/Cracked Trailer Crossmember

[CrabLeg]

Hi,

When parking my 1989 22' Boston Whaler Revenge yesterday on its twin axle EZ loader roller trailer, the trailer bottomed out on the concrete driveway (not very hard) and I noticed that a large crack had formed on the lowest part of the axle, the curved part that holds the rollers at the stern. There had been some rust on this part that I had noticed before, but didn't think it had become a structural issue. The whole thing is still intact at the top, but cracked about 2/3rds of the way through. Here are some photos:

http://www.whalercentral.com/images/ppimages/38912/trailer axle 3.jpg
http://www.whalercentral.com/images/ppimages/38912/trailer axle 2.jpg
http://www.whalercentral.com/images/ppimages/38912/trailer axle 1.jpg

Now I'm trying to figure out how to go about fixing this issue. Since the other similar axle piece further forward also has some rust but isn't cracked, I figure I should probably replace both, which would mean having the trailer partially dismantled, rollers removed, and these pieces reinstalled. The trick is that the boat is on the trailer right now, and I don't know if I should attempt to drive it down to a nearby shop with the state it is currently and risk a total failure and potential damage to the boat. Maybe it is fine to drive for a couple of miles at slow speed, I'm not sure (or if there is a way to brace it temporarily). If I can't move the trailer, not sure how I can actually get the boat off or have a mobile service come and help fix...

Can you guys let me know what the repair procedure for this problem is? Thanks!

 

[Scott Danforth]

that is your trailer cross-member. it is rusted thru. you need a new trailer

just because the outside is galvanized, doesnt mean the inside of the tubes are.

flatbed your boat/trailer if you want to move it.

 

[MTboatguy]

When I used to help my buddy in the RV shop we did boat trailers as well and when we had to remove axles to repair or replace, we jacked them up on all 4 corners, right at the back and then under to farthest extreme we could before the trailer made the bend to go to the couple, put HD jack stands under it and then pulled the axles, replaired or replaced with new hardware and then were on our way,

 

[GA_Boater]

The boat will have to come off the trailer to fix this one - If you can find replacement cross members. The rails should be examined closely as well because they could be rotting from the inside.

 

[CrabLeg]

Thanks - it sounds like it is a possible fix, but that my best bet would probably just be replacing the entire trailer. I will look more closely at the rest of the frame for rust - I know the ubolts and leaf springs are already pretty rusty, but is there a way to check inside the tubes or any other tell tale signs I should look for? I definitely don’t want to go through the whole fix of this then just have another piece bust a month later (possibly on the road). But I also don’t want to completely ditch the trailer if it can be repaired.

I may take it to the shop first and have them look at it. I’m thinking I will just try towing extremely slowly (about 5miles) since I’m not so sure about pulling the boat off the trailer and putting it on blocks myself...

finally, if I get a new trailer, what is the absolute best route to take to handle corrosion? I’ve heard painted c-channel iron trailers, since you can rinse all parts (no tubes) or maybe just a good (newer) aluminum trailer. I assume my current EZ Loader is aluminum, not galvanized, yet it is corroding...

 

[M2HB]

If the trailer has a lot of cancer, then it is time to replace it.

If the cancer is only in the crossmembers, it can be fixed.

I hate boat trailers made out of tubing because they can hold water in the tubes and rust out.

The best finish on a steel trailer is hot dipped galvanizing.

 

[ahicks]

Agree with the others regarding what needs to be done. Kinda like a rusty old car. There comes a time when it's best to just replace it. However, if this is one of those trailers that is used only to pull the trailer a mile to and from seasonal storage, you could get the broken area reinforced and wait for it to fail somewhere else. That could be the next time you need it, or it could be 5 years. Not a gamble I'd be comfortable with if the trailer see's much use on the road.

And last, your note talks about a cracked axle. If you continue calling your problem an axle problem, you're going to create some confusion. Your issue is with the trailer's frame.

 

[MTboatguy]

Ignore my post, I am just now able to see the images of the damage and that is not the axle.

 

[CrabLeg]

Thanks, yeah now I know it is the cross member of the frame, not the axle. Sounds like consensus across the board is to get a new trailer, and not risk piecemeal replacement of a trailer that may have many more issues soon. I looked more closely at the trailer last night and determined that really the only pieces that look to be in good shape are the main frame that runs to the hitch at the front, the wheels, and brake system (which I know was replaced approx 3 year’s ago by previous owner) the primary axel members and the winch. Most other pieces like all u bolts, leaf springs, rollers, frame pieces that hold the rollers, are rusty and need to be replaced as well. So just doing the math seems to lead me to forgetting about doing the repairs and just going new. If I did repairs instead I’d always be cringing on the freeway (I frequently tow a 75 mile stretch of road about 6-7 times per year) just waiting for the next thing to go, possibly while driving.

 

[ajgraz]

Maybe your budget is less limited than mine, but I don't know if I'd throw in the towel on that trailer just because of a little surface rust on the replaceable / wear parts (u-bolts, springs). If the main tubes are OK inside, it might make more sen$e to fix what you've got.

Maybe that crossmember just had a plugged-up drain hole and water collected inside. Google "ez loader replacement parts" and you'll find some places (one of them is very "eastern," hint, hint--maybe right close to you if your Crableg is blue!)) you can get parts for that trailer, it might make you think twice versus the cost of complete replacement of the trailer.

 

[CrabLeg]

Maybe your budget is less limited than mine, but I don't know if I'd throw in the towel on that trailer just because of a little surface rust on the replaceable / wear parts (u-bolts, springs). If the main tubes are OK inside, it might make more sen$e to fix what you've got..

I was definitely thinking that initially, since I can see the exact parts that need to be replaced and I've done a little trailer work before and know that those things are fairly straightforward, just cutting off bolts and reattaching new components. But if I take it to the shop to have them fix it (just don't have time to do it all myself right now) it might add cost that I need to consider. There is also my skepticism about the main tubes being okay, even though they look fine from the outside (so did the cross members until very recently).

I guess really the only way to compare costs is to take it to a shop and get an estimate, and if it was cheaper than buying new I'd have to be okay with knowing that there still could be other problems lurking that I can't see...

 

[M2HB]

If you are going to pay someone to fix that trailer, it probably won’t pay to fix it. Used trailers are cheap, but you need to find one that fits your boat and you need to do whatever repairs the newer trailer needs.

 

[MTboatguy]

I could repair it, I would build a three sided sleeve and then weld it in place, but before I did that, I would pick up a cheap remote inspection camera from Harbor Frieght and inspect the inside of those tubes to see what other damage might be present.