run a ground wire

[2BALL]

Can I just run a ground wire from each rear light to the ground at the front of the trailer?
Do I need to use the frame as the ground run?
I'm goofing with a intermittent bad ground.

 

[GA_Boater]

Can I just run a ground wire from each rear light to the ground at the from of the trailer?
Do I need to use the frame as the ground run?
I'm goofing with a intermittent bad ground.

That's the best way to fix grounding problems for trailer lights. Trailer frames are notorious as poor ground paths.

 

[2BALL]

can it be just 1 ground wire? from one light (ground) to the other light (ground) to the ground wire to the front?
or
do the need to be separate?

 

[dingbat]

Yes, you can do that but you will double the number of connections to go bad. Not to mention all the lights “downstream” of the fault will go dark.

Run double wires or make a dedicated ground stud (SS) for each light.

Went the double wire route this time. Probably revert back to dedicated ground stud on the next rework

 

[GA_Boater]

Since the wires split off to both sides, it's easier to run the extra ground from each light to the front on the harness. You have fewer connections this way.

 

[bruceb58]

I never ran a separate ground. Always used the frame. Of course I drilled a hole, had a crimped on ring connector, used a nut and bolt and painted over the connection.

 

[mike_i]

Can I just run a ground wire from each rear light to the ground at the front of the trailer? Yes
Do I need to use the frame as the ground run? No5

 

[2BALL]

what wire do I use, size and type?

 

[dingbat]

Since the wires split off to both sides, it's easier to run the extra ground from each light to the front on the harness. You have fewer connections this way.

How do you double the number of wires without doubling the number of connections?

I simply drilled and tapped the frame and installed a stainless steel ground lug for each light.

 

[AShipShow]

running an extra ground wire really isn't needed if you make good ground connections to the frame... As mentioned above, make sure you use good quality crimp and heat shrink terminals and make sure the attachment point is good clean steel/aluminum/galvanized. Use stainless fasteners for the attachment. I also use permatex aviation sealant on all the screws to keep oxygen out of the connection to mitigate any corrosion.. As mentioned above, you can also paint over the connection to help keep water and oxygen out.

The only other thing to mention is that, any bolted connection on your trailer should be jumped with a ground wire and connected as mentioned above... you can have perfect connections from the trailer plug to the frame, but if you have to go through 5 dirty bolted connections to get back to the taillight, then your always going to struggle.

At the end of the day, you can do it however you want, but I find it annoying to run an extra ground wire on my trailer because it would have to have so many splices to split off to all of the lights.

 

[roscoe]

running a ground wire saved me from messing up the nice galvanized finish on the hot dipped after weld trailer I spent a small fortune on.

Also allowed me to mount the lights on the fiberglass and plywood doors of my cargo trailer.

And gives me worry free trailer lighting.

 

[76SeaRay]

I absolutely hate having wiring and light problems. I completely rewired my trailer and ran separate grounds along with left and right turn signals and tail lights starting at the front trailer connector down both sides of the trailer. My ground to the towing vehicle goes through my trailer connector so it doesn't rely upon the trailer ball. I also replaced all my trailer lights with sealed LED lights and every light has a ground wire as opposed to relying upon screws for a ground to the frame. I used wire connectors that have the sealant in the heat shrink to make sure all the wire connections are protected from water. I did this on my car hauler trailer as well. I have not had anymore lighting problems with either my boat trailer or car trailer. They work every time, besides, the LED lights make the trailer look really cool at dusk.

 

[Roadking57]

What 76SeaRay mentioned the problem is relying on the connection between the trailer hitch ball and your vehicle. most trailer harnesses have a white ground wire that comes thru the plug. if you go ahead and drill a hole, remove a bit of paint and attach a wire with a terminal on it with a good sheetmetal screw. tighten it up snug then spray a bit of rustoleum on it your problems will go away. Just keep in mind that corrosion in older light housings that have been sunk launching a boat many times can be a problem source. They do sell sealed LED lights if you want to go that route. Myself, I have found the less expensive lights work just as good as long as you unplug the harness before launching.