'Rude 4 HP frozen, won't turn unless brute force are used

[Norseman]

Tis is a 1995 E4REOD, 2 cylinder engine with farly light duty in it's past.

We use it as a dink/tender motor in salt water about 5 to 8 times a year.

The last time I ran it was 5 months ago. It hangs on the stern of my sailboat and I always run it in fresh water before putting it away. Also empty the carb by running it dry. Been doing the same for 8 years, with occasional service such as fuel filter, new plugs, lower bearing and seal-ring.
It usually starts easy and have been relaible.

Symptoms:

Tried to start it yesterday. Unable to pull the cord...Huh?
Pulled off the top cover and pull-mechanism (3 screws)
Now I tried to turn the flywheel...No cigar, although it moves a few degrees each way freely.
Took out the plugs and put a pencil in the openings to see if the pistons moved a few degrees as well....They did. The pistons move freely when I turn the flywheel the few degrees it will go either way.

Hmmm, The engine itself, the crank and pistons are free. Must be something in the tranny connection that holds it back.

Had a strong buddy hold on to the engine and I put a socket wrench on the flywheel nut and gave it some gorilla power......Yes, it came around.
Now it was "free" but it still took a lot of power to turn the crank.
I is enough resistance so it would never start. (Big guy using both hands to turn the flywheel)

I also noticed that the prop is turning whenever I turn the fly wheel, regardless of the position of the gear shifter.

This perhaps indicates that the problem is somewere below the engine in the trasnmission area. (Don't think there is much of a tranny here, but for lack of a better word)

This as fas as I came.
Hoping to be able to repair it, as this is engine is 2 cylinder AND light weight.
Don't think they make a replacement anymore as all the 4s I have looked at have 1 cylinder. Same for the 5s.

Lifting the motor on and off the sailboat while bendt over under a bimini top requires super-low weight, therefore the new 4 stroks are out of the question.

Any ideas how to blow life back into my trusty 4 HP Evinrude...?

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 'Rude 4 HP frozen, won't turn unless brute force are used

pull the lower unit. and see which is binding. then fix which one. parts should be readily available for a 1995.

 

[Norseman]

Re: 'Rude 4 HP frozen, won't turn unless brute force are used

Thanks, will go after it right away.

DH

 

[Norseman]

Re: 'Rude 4 HP frozen, won't turn unless brute force are used

Okay, now pulled the lower unit and the engine turns freely.

The main drive shaft however that came out with the lower unit down not turn at all. It is also heavy coated with surface rust.

The shafts goes into this little chamber that is sealed with a plastic part and held on with 3 screws.
The next step is probably taking that apart...?

(I have been checking the oil down there in the past, but hmm, it may be a year or 2 since I did that...Hope I did not run it dry and got permanent damage.)

Thanks for good advise so far.

 

[Norseman]

Re: 'Rude 4 HP frozen, won't turn unless brute force are used

Well, now I have pulled of the plastic cover over the water pump.
(Impeller looks OK, but now is a good time to change.)

Also pulled the metal place below the impeller.
Pulled the prop and prop shaft also.

There was no oil down there, but plenty of grease...(!)

About 5 years ago I serviced the lower unit with new prop shaft bearing and sealer ring. Then filled up with gear oil to the filler screw.

For the next few years I checked the oil level a coupld of times a year and was satisfied that I always had oil coming out when I opened the screw.
Guess I got complacent as it has been a couple of years since I checked the oil.
Now it is empty and the vertical bearing is frozen/corroded.

How do I remove it? Just pull hard on the shaft?
Or special tools needed?

I have soaked the bearing in WD-40 and will let it sit overnight, perhaps that will free it up...?

Perhapst that will even fix the problem as I have not been running the engine in the frozen/restricted condition and the damage to the bearing may be minimal...?
(Wishful thinking, I probably should replace everything down there...)

Thanks for further advice.

DH

 

[Norseman]

Re: 'Rude 4 HP frozen, won't turn unless brute force are used

Bearing and drive shaft is stuck and won't come out.

Is there a special tool to pull the bearing out, or just use heat and force..?

Thanks

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 'Rude 4 HP frozen, won't turn unless brute force are used

Heat and a big hammer! (but gently - dont give the hammer to your big friend!)

Just a point for other folks that might be reading this post. DO NOT turn the engine the opposite direction when doing anything to it as it will reverse the vanes in the water pump and can cause the vanes to brake or other problems. Only turn it clockwise when trying to do anything to it. Another point is that the lower unit oil should be drained and changed every fall before storage (in northern climates that is) and that's the best time to see if water is creeping in.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 'Rude 4 HP frozen, won't turn unless brute force are used

Samo, i could not agree more, changing the oil in the fall is good in all climates. the slightest freeze, can crack a lower unit that has water intrusion. also chaging the drain and vent plug seals, everytime they are removed, they are the # 1 cause of water intrusion.

 

[WaterWitch2]

Re: 'Rude 4 HP frozen, won't turn unless brute force are used

Samo, i could not agree more, changing the oil in the fall is good in all climates. the slightest freeze, can crack a lower unit that has water intrusion. also chaging the drain and vent plug seals, everytime they are removed, they are the # 1 cause of water intrusion.

I never thought of that. How much water would need to be in the lower case to crack the housing? It freezes where I am (9 degrees f).

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 'Rude 4 HP frozen, won't turn unless brute force are used

My first OMC, a 1961 5.5hp cracked in the skeg. I learnt the hard way. Did not change the LU oil before the winter. Stored it in my cottage. Water sits at the bottom, oil on top and it froze the bottom and cracked it. Then to make things worse, the rest of the oil leaked all over my inside floor! Sigh... It's never happened again to any of my engines.

I have heard that synthetic LU oil is even better at providing lube when compromised with water. Has anyone else hear this?