riveting question

[1216bandit]

Two seasons back I ran the hose into the bilge on my 1993 22' islander, found leaking rivets and sealed them from the outside with 5300, which held up great till just recently. .The boat was water tight as a ducks rear end. I knew this was a temporary fix and was happy to get 2 seasons for so little work and time

Anyhow, this fall I would like to do it properly and replace the leaking rivets and have a few questions for those that have done the job. All rivets will be replaced from outside.

what blind rivet head most resembles the factory rivets?? No big deal just would like to do it this way if possible.

I read the rivets used are 3/16 but not sure of the length I would need??

Is a 3/16 drill bit or something else used to drill out the existing rivets?

Do you have to drill very deep into the rivet to be replaced before the head can be knocked off?

any tips or things to be careful of appreciated!

Thanx...Dan

 

[dozerII]

Rivets, now there's an interesting topic. Blind closed in rivets are the ones to look for in 1/2 or 5/8 grip range. You won't find any that match the head shape of a solid rivet. Removing the old ones if you drill them you will have to be dead center and go most of the way through. I prefer to use a dedicated Sharpe wood chisel, just get it under the edge and give it a walk to pop the head off then use a pin punch to knock out the shank. When you install the new rivets put a little 5200 in the holes to seal them

 

[classiccat]

Hi Dan,

Welcome to the Starmada (if you haven't previously been welcomed!) :welcome:

Some pics of that beast would greatly appreciated :madgrin:

Starcraft uses a mixture of 5/32" and 3/16" brazier head solid rivets (blind rivets should be avoided...they're also a temporary fix IMHO.)

I've used a few methods to remove rivets...the most clean that I've found is to core-out enough material to get you to the start of the hull skin...using a bit that's about 1/32" smaller than the rivet size (1/4" bit for 5/32"). Use a center punch & a sharp drill bit. I also use alot of cutting oil and drill slow.

Once you core-out either the head or the bucktail, grab yourself a wood chisel and pop-off the cored-out end.

The advantage of doing it this way, is that you can see the rivet hole and avoid a drifting drill bit from distorting the hole.

At this point, you can punch it out but there's risk that you'll distort the material on the other side (it may bulge out). What I prefer doing once I pop-off the head (or bucktail) is to finish drilling the rivet (1/32" smaller than the rivet) ..alot of times it will start to spin in the rivet hole and you can extract-it safely :thumb:.

 

[1216bandit]

Thanx for the tips. Would I use a 3/16 bit to drill out the rivet? I measured the existing rivets and the head is a little more than 2 mm high so I am thinking I should mark the bit to not go any deeper than that? I am a bit concerned about going too deep, being off center and ending up with an egg shaped hole that needs to be opened up too the next size rivet. My buddy has an air riveter that I believe wont accept anything larger than 3/16 rivets.

 

[gm280]

If you can get to both sides of the rivets and have a helper, you can do this quickly and very professionally as well. And I would certainly use solid rivets verses anything else. But you will have to have access to both sides and a helper where you can't do it yourself...

 

[1216bandit]

I cant get to both sides....the interior is mint and I really would like to avoid taking it apart which I am sure would be quite a job...floors out...floatation foam etc.

Those that have done this from the outside with blind/sealed rivets..how long ago was it done and are the new rivets still water tight??

 

[Watermann]

I've not replaced solids on the bottom with blinds but I've seen others do it when the boat is together. I would suggest using closed end blinds either all SS rivet or AL with a steel mandrel for strength and along with 5200 to seal the deal.

 

[laurentide]

I've used closed end blind rivets below the waterline...like those guys^^ said it's certainly not ideal, but it will work if it's your only reasonable option. 5200 is a must to get a good seal. I'm going to re-do them with solid rivets when I replace my delaminating transom...but they've been fine for three seasons now with heavy use.

 

[bob johnson]

I don't think id use a steel shanked rivet on my boat. if you can see both sides of the rivet certainly use a solid rivet...if you cant buck the layers of sheet together, then Id chisel or grind the head off. and center punch the shank of the rivet that's left very carefully and drill with a 1/8th drill then work up to a 5/32" drill....the rivet if original will probably be 3/16th". you want to avoid pushing the inside material( probably a rib or stringer) away from the hull material. I always drilled overside and reamed to .250"...because things shift and sometimes the holes don't align very well... but I bucked all my rivets. a closed end blind all aluminum rivet is better than a hole or a screw!!!!!!!!!!! you don't need the rivet for structural strength as much as you need it for sealing a water leak...a closed end blind rivet and sealant...will do just fine...for non rebuild repairs.

bob

 

[Watermann]

Bob, Starcraft used 100's of the steel mandrel blind rivets on your boat and mine.

I'm going to assume in the safest manner possible, that bandit doesn't exactly know whats behind the rivet he's replacing. If he uses an all AL blind rivet on the bottom to hold a rib it might last a couple outings or a season but it will come loose pretty quick. I know this because I tried to do it myself and they failed. If using the steel shank closed end blind rivet the mandrel hole needs to be sealed so water won't get to the mandrel. For the bottom rivet repair a stronger steel mandrel AL blind will have a stronger hold for longer. I had the best luck with all SS blind rivets but it takes 2 men and a boy to pop them with a hand popper.

 

[1216bandit]

Thanks for all the information, much appreciated! It appears that SS blind are the way to go and I have access to an air riveter which should make things easier.

 

[smevil]

Rivets I know, boats I am working toward. If the solid is not an option for a rivet 5/32 or 3/16 hole. I would go with a Cherry Max
rivet. I Restored aircraft from the 60's these are good rivets used on pressurized hulls of all planes, You can pull them with a regular hand puller and they have a stainless center and an softer aluminum outer casing so they conform to hole once pulled, but as always dip 5200 and pull. I would suggest going local airport and asking for a mechanic. I would bet money he will hook you up, the tool in picture below will give you exact depth, but make crude one to show thickness of the hull.

 

[bob johnson]

Rivets I know, boats I am working toward. If the solid is not an option for a rivet 5/32 or 3/16 hole. I would go with a Cherry Max
rivet. I Restored aircraft from the 60's these are good rivets used on pressurized hulls of all planes, You can pull them with a regular hand puller and they have a stainless center and an softer aluminum outer casing so they conform to hole once pulled, but as always dip 5200 and pull. I would suggest going local airport and asking for a mechanic. I would bet money he will hook you up, the tool in picture below will give you exact depth, but make crude one to show thickness of the hull.

cherrymax!...good info... SS shank with aluminum body , sounds like a win win.. are they water proof, like a closed end blind rivet??

bob