Ring seal can seal the deal -- bf100 '85 cooling

infoanalysis

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I bought a bf100 circa 85 Honda 10 HP long shaft that did not pee water. When I went to change the impellor I was surprised to find it intact. So I pieced it together ( one of the 4 thread inserts that anchor down the imp housing required a longer bolt -- must have stripped the end of that insert thread.) and cleaned out with compressed air all the holes including removing the intake plate to check the thermostat looked ok and blew out the channels. after re-assembling I started it again still no pee. I was told you need a ring seal part #

19252-921-020 number 9 from diagram impellor assembly bf100.png

from the water tube ( part number 7) to the chimney of the housing( part number 2). I noticed none was replaced when I inspected. Is this ring seal critical explaining why it did not pump water through this long shaft engine and thus no pee? It certainly had a loose fit and I also noticed the lower unit which holds the housing was all wet and oily ( as if it were a 2 stroke) when I removed it.
 

MattFL

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You've got multiple questions. Yes part #9 is important, make sure you have a good one installed before further troubleshooting, then you can mark it off the list of suspects. You can also drop the lower unit, hold a hose on that pipe and turn the water on and see if you get any water circulating through the motor and out the pee hole. If it does pee then you know you have a water pump or leak issue. If there is no pee then you might have a blockage in the motor somewhere. Stick a wire or weed whacker string up the pee hole and see if you can dislodge anything.

If the top of the gear case was wet with oil, that could either be oil from the powerhead, or the top gear case seal leaking. Is there any water in the gear case oil? Let it sit overnight then open the bottom drain screw. Does any water come out before the oil?
 

infoanalysis

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No I think it is okay now. The seal did work and the pee hole is working. But now I notice the inlet manifold leaks water at the gasket seam until it heated up and stopped. IS this okay?
 

MattFL

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No part of the motor should be leaking water. I would disassemble and make sure the mating surfaces are clean and flat and the gasket is in good shape. Worst case you can use some gasket maker or gasket sealer compound on it, but I would save that as a last resort. A side note; water leaking over gasket surfaces will eventually lead to corrosion of those areas, making the leak worse, causing more corrosion, making it leak more, etc..
 

infoanalysis

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I have a Circa 1980s BF100 long shaft. After fixing the water pump by buying the seal ring that allows water to move up the water tube, I was able to finally see the water pee out the side. But I noticed that water spitting out of the split case of the inlet manifold toward the rear shooting out from the bulging middle above the bolt holding the hose clip( 4). I had checked the thermostat (7) so I did remove the inlet manifold (5) earlier. I tightened the two bolts ( 9) around it an additional quarter turn and also sequenced through giving a small crank on all the others. It did not stop the spitting until it warmed up then stopped. Is this normal or should I replace the gaskets?( parts 2 and 3) Do these gaskets need to heat up in order to seal? Does anyone know the proper torque for these bolts so I don't over tighten them stripping out the inserts? Thanks for your help.

MOD EDIT - Competitor removed.
 
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MattFL

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It should never leak water, replace the gaskets. Make sure the sealing surfaces are clean (no old gasket material) and flat before re-assembly with the new gaskets.
 

infoanalysis

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The gasket, when I removed earlier was metal but had a plastic coating on it. I was wondering does that have to reseat or reseal.
 
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