Repower Questions

[gn83tm]

I have a few questions for those more knowledgable than I about repowering my 1997 Fisher Pro Avenger. It is a low hour rig with a 40 HP Force that I have been happy with but I'd like to get something closer to the 75 max HP rating of the boat. I don't really want to spend $2000-$3000 (or more) on a motor that is the same vintage as the boat so I've been looking at 1970s and '80s motors in the under $1000 range. I do all my own work and other than re-sale value (I'll keep the Force as an option there), I don't really have any problems going with an older motor that's in good shape.

There's a decent supply of 70 HP Johnyrudes around here that start out at a few hundred dollars and go up from there. A lot of these seem to be mid to late '70s vintage. Once in a while I'll see an early or mid '80s Merc.

A couple of specific questions I have:
1) Controls: The boat has Quicksilver 3000 Classic controls that are in great shape. Am I correct in that if I go OMC, I would need to change the controls? The Quicksilver manuals show hook-ups for Mercruiser, Mercury, Mariner, and Force, but not OMC. I don't really want to go with the 30 year old controls that most of the Johnyrudes come with since they're probably worn out and they're surface mounted rather than having the cables behind like I have now. It also seems silly to spend $300+ for new controls for a $500 motor. If I go with an older Merc will my controls match up?

2) Wiring: How big of a deal will this be with an older engine? Will the tach be an issue?

3) I really like having power tilt/trim but it seems to be hit or miss as to the older motors having it. I'd probably be better off waiting for a motor with it rather than trying to find a used system and installing it - correct? Can I expect having to rebuild the older units at some point and if so, is that an expensive proposition?

4) Any other advice anyone has?

Thanks so much for your time!

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Repower Questions

using the Merc control you are stuck with a Brunswick motor. also they changed their wiring harness quiet often over the years, where OMC/BRP products used the same controls for over 30 years. the older mercs, some had 5 pin connectors, 7, 8,9 then went to multiple plugs.

 

[Chris1956]

Re: Repower Questions

Those controls will work on Merc's from 1970-new. The wiring harness will likely need to be adapted to the motor you select. I would think a 70HP Force could be had for small money.

if you decide to go OMC, stay away from the electric shift models. The old OMC Controls are likely fine.

 

[marquette]

Re: Repower Questions

i would look for he cleanest solidest best running motor i could find in my price range and then deal with the control and T&T issue. most motors are going to come with a set of controls and Johnnyrude control boxes are pretty simple design and construction. new cables are $25 apiece and a new ignition switch is $30. if you are comfortable working on the engine the control box is a piece of cake. if the motor comes with T&T and it works great or if it doesn"t you should be able to rebuild it for $350. and a new aftermarket CMC T&T is about $500. they are kind of ugly but they work and you can move it to the next motor or use it on the force if you want. the controls or the T&T won't leave you stranded but the motor could so i would make it the priority.

 

[gn83tm]

Re: Repower Questions

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm not too afraid of adapting the wiring over as that should just be a matter of tracking down which wire does what. Do I have to worry about tach compatibility or is that a non-issue?

Chris, I agree that a 70 Force should be pretty cheap but I've been looking for about 2 months and have yet to find one. Found a 1996 75 HP at a dealer about 500 miles away but they want $2500 outright or $1500 plus my 40. For that much I could buy a nice OMC or Merc.

Marquette, I agree on placing the greater emphasis on the actual motor condition. I'd rather not surface mount an older set of OMC controls though due to the cables running on the surface of the boat interior rather than behind it. Buying a flush mount control set, adding tilt/trim, and all that type of stuff will soon add up to what the motor costs.

It's not that I don't have the money to put a new or almost new motor on this rig. It's just that I don't see that as being a priority - like I didn't see the point in buying a new rig for $20K+ when this 10 year old one was super clean, fits our needs, and was under $5K. Having something simple to tinker with helps me keep my sanity also - kind of like jumping on a 1958 Oliver tractor to plow my driveway in the winter.

Thanks for the replies