reply to dhadley about silenoids 72 evinrude

[kim]

We have power and I'm sure I have the right lube. What is the next step? Thank you for all your help!

 

[Dhadley]

Re: reply to dhadley about silenoids 72 evinrude

OK - we have power to the solenoids in the correct pattern (none - one - both). In other words we know the shift switch and related wiring going forward is working. <br /><br />Now check the wires with the motor running. If you get power going to both wires and the propshaft is not in reverse we need to check the wires going to the lower unit. To do this you will need to remove the lower unit. It may indeed be a bad solenoid or simply a bad/broken wire. When you remove it be sure to hook something to the wires so you can pull them back up later.<br /><br />Hopefully you will find a bad spot in the wire that can be fixed easily. <br /><br />Good luck!

 

[H Doug D]

Re: reply to dhadley about silenoids 72 evinrude

Dhadley; thank you for your posts. I'm working on a 1971, 50hp Johnson with the<br />hydro-electric shift. The Clymer 1956-1972 manual shows only the 5 lead switch with an<br />external blocking diode but this engine has the 3 lead toggle switch: purple is 12v source, green to neutral and blue to reverse solenoids.<br /> My tests show the blocking diode is inside the sealed toggle switch. The manual showed only 12 volts out to green for neutral and 12 volts out to blue for reverse but my tests showed 12 volts out to green for neutral and 12 volts out to both blue and <br />green for reverse. I thought I must have a bad switch until your posts confirmed my tests are correct. THANK YOU and keep up your good work. <br />Your posts have saved me a lot of grief. Now I can look to the lower unit for the real problem.<br />Doug

 

[Dhadley]

Re: reply to dhadley about silenoids 72 evinrude

Doug -- glad it helped. Thanks for letting me know.<br /><br />Good luck!

 

[scarchest]

Re: reply to dhadley about silenoids 72 evinrude

Doug. If you have isolated the problem to the lower unit, the problem is the o-ring in the pump itself, the gears never (or rarely)<br />goes bad. In my opinion these are the best<br />lower units ever made<br /><br />Scar

 

[Dhadley]

Re: reply to dhadley about silenoids 72 evinrude

Doug -- It just struck me about your confusion with the manual. The push buttons were in the Evinrude box and the switch you refer to was in the Johnson box. <br /><br />Good luck!

 

[H Doug D]

Re: reply to dhadley about silenoids 72 evinrude

Dhadley and Scarchest, thank you for the help. This outboard belongs to a friend who<br />has spent many dollars taking it to a shop <br />and it still won't change gears. I'm working on it in my yard until I'm sure the problem <br />isn't electrical. <br /><br />I have the: none - one - two sequence <br />through the control box to the knife switch disconnects but I don't hear any solenoid clicks.<br /><br />With the knifes disconnected and the battery negative connected to the engine and, using <br />an external 12v + wire to briefly touch each solenoid lead, there are no solenoid clicks.<br /><br />The solenods measure 5 to 7 ohms each which<br />is what the Clymer manual specifies. My question is: should I hear the solenoids <br />click under these conditions? <br />Thank you for any help.

 

[H Doug D]

Re: reply to dhadley about silenoids 72 evinrude

Hello Dhadley; thats good info to know about <br />the switches on Evinrude vs Johnson. It's a<br />pity the manual doesn't mention this.<br />Thanks, Doug