replacing wiring harness from control box to engine

[rentprop1]

OK..... I think its time just to start over, I have a few cracked wires, sticky wires and the insulation on the wires looks to be soaked in oil near the engine......a few questions

1. can you purchase a complete harness from the control box to engine or is it cheaper to get like colored wire and just DIY

2. anyone have a link for a wiring diagram inside the control box

wire is approx 35 yrs old...I guess
its a 1975 Evinrude 50 hp....thanks

 

[rentprop1]

Re: replacing wiring harness from control box to engine

http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfinder/?*******=955281915&dz=[VE::Template%20can%27t%20find:%20dz]&gd_grid_id=1281&gd_partfinder=1&gd_poid=334823&gd_row=42&**********=141936307

this part that iboats sells is from the plug back towards the engine, I am talking about from the control box back.

My engine at one point had the plug cut out due to corrosion on both sides of the plug and the wires were male - female bullet connector together.

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: replacing wiring harness from control box to engine

Try http://www.sea-way.com/

I make my own, and use multi-conductor cable and heat shrink tubing and just wire everything direct, but mine is an old 40 twin, so all I have is a starter, electric choke, and kill switch to worry about. The charging system is long gone.

 

[rentprop1]

Re: replacing wiring harness from control box to engine

after much research tonight It's looking like making my own is the way to go, however I have reservations of the control box area, I have never been inside of one and wonder what the wiring is like in there.....wooooow

it would seem just about everything would wire up to the key switch, and the choke...maybe now would be a good time to replace the key switch as well ??

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: replacing wiring harness from control box to engine

would not hurt, yes everything attaches to the switch, choke and neutral safety switch. you can either wire the motor direct, or splice to the big red plug, or use bullet connectors.

i have done it all 3 ways.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: replacing wiring harness from control box to engine

http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfinder/?*******=955281915&dz=[VE::Template%20can%27t%20find:%20dz]&gd_grid_id=1281&gd_partfinder=1&gd_poid=334823&gd_row=42&**********=141936307

this part that iboats sells is from the plug back towards the engine, I am talking about from the control box back.

My engine at one point had the plug cut out due to corrosion on both sides of the plug and the wires were male - female bullet connector together.

The harness that you are after is part # 0385698.

http://shop2.evinrude.com/ext/index.aspx?s1=12db4cf3b8ca09f300ea7a799d99b30c

That link will allowyou to find a dealer that stocks the part.

 

[rentprop1]

Re: replacing wiring harness from control box to engine

thanks guys, I believe I'm gonna just make my own, I found a place that sells sets of wire in a insulated sheath ( 8-12 wires per sheath )...just have to see if they have my wire size and how many in the sheath and again how much.....I'd hate to replace all that and have to wrap it myself and look crappy..

last question, is there a need for a connector or a bullet plug ??

I was just gonna wire directly and save a few $$$ cause those bullet connectors are expensive

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: replacing wiring harness from control box to engine

thanks guys, I believe I'm gonna just make my own, I found a place that sells sets of wire in a insulated sheath ( 8-12 wires per sheath )...just have to see if they have my wire size and how many in the sheath and again how much.....I'd hate to replace all that and have to wrap it myself and look crappy..

last question, is there a need for a connector or a bullet plug ??

I was just gonna wire directly and save a few $$$ cause those bullet connectors are expensive

No need for a connector, but you'll have to unwire it if you take the motor off. You can run all of the ignition and choke stuff off of the lighter gauge wire, but you probably want a heavier gauge wire for (+)(-) power, so you can run lights and stuff without running a separate wire from the battery.