Replacing Transom Boot (seal)

[asbennett]

Can anyone tell me if it is possible to replace the transom boot without removing the outdrive - (and how)? I have a 1982 OMC 2.5L In-line 4cyl with a 400 stringer outdrive. If this is at all possible - please share how it can be done. Thanks a million!

 

[danthern]

Re: Replacing Transom Boot (seal)

I did it on my 800 stringer. Its a bit of a pain but not as much as removing the drive. I was able to sort of pull it over the outdrive starting at the prop, of course. Its kind of tight and you may have to pull on it, but I was able to do it. Good luck!

 

[tmclendon]

Re: Replacing Transom Boot (seal)

I've done it twice. It IS a pain, but as the previous poster said it's nothing like taking the outdrive off!<br /><br />Hints: Do it on the trailer, not hanging from a hoist in your boathouse with you standing waist-deep in 40-degree water!<br /><br />A replacement boot is around 70 bucks.<br /><br />You CANNOT replace the metal plate that goes on the outside of the boot, it won't fit over the outdrive. Use the old one. Just wiggle the new boot through the old plate, nothing to it.<br /><br />You'll have to stretch the new boot a little to get it over the outdrive, but it's not too hard. The boot is pretty tough! Spray some WD-40 on the inside if you want.<br /><br />Make sure you use a good marine sealant, but not a permament one! You may need to change the boot again sometime. Make sure whatever you use doesn't cure too fast!! It'll take 30+ minutes to get the new boot secured. I used 3M 4200 last time, seems to work fine.<br /><br />Adjust the tilt so the outdrive is more-or-less centered in the tansom hole.<br /><br />Don't use too much sealant, either on the transom or the flange on the outdrive. Too much will make a heck of a mess. Maybe a 1/4" bead on the transon, 1/8 on the flange on the outdrive.<br /><br />Obviously you attach the boot to the outdrive first with that giant hose clamp. You kinda pull the boot inside-out and get it on the flange (put the sealant on the flange first), Rotate it back and forth a little to smooth out the sealant, then line it up as best you can (with the screw holes in the transom), and tighten the clamp. <br /><br />Best hint I can give you: When you are screwing the boot to the transom, before you put on the sealant, stretch the new boot over the metal frame and line up the screw holes. The lip on the new boot will hold the plate in place. If you don't it's heck to get all the holes to line up, especially with sealant all over the place. Put the screws in loosley at first until you have them all started, then tighten them evenly. Do not overtighten! it's easy to deform the boot. Take 3-4 passes on all the screws, a little tighter each time.<br /><br />Use a power drill or a power screwdriver, there are bunch of them screws and your hand will be REALLY tired if you do them all manually.<br /><br />Go slowly, it's really not too hard as boat maintenance goes!<br /><br />Tom

 

[mcpo]

Re: Replacing Transom Boot (seal)

Since you guys have a stringer and just acquired one, can you tell me what the oil fill hole on the very top (next to the boot/transom) is for and what do you fill it with regular lower unit fluid? There is also a fill area in the intermediate and I'm not sure what that is for either. I do know this, I've got to replace the impeller and I need a new tilt motor.<br /><br />Thanks, <br />Cal

 

[mcpo]

Re: Replacing Transom Boot (seal)

I mean to say I just acquired one.

 

[tmclendon]

Re: Replacing Transom Boot (seal)

The fill hole right behind the boot is for the oil reservoir in the intermediate housing. There's a drain hole for this lower down on the housing.<br /><br />The stringers have 3 oil reservoirs (Not counting the engine): Lower Unit, Upper Unit, and Intermediate housing. They each have a drain hole and a top hole (Note I said top hole, not fill hole; you fill them from the bottom hole). I usually change the Lower Unit lube every season, the other 2 maybe every 2 or 3 years. The lower unit (in the 800 model drive (used on the V-6s and V-8s), I think the 400 is smaller) takes 16.9oz, the upper and intermediate take less. 2 16-oz bottles is plenty to refill all 3.<br /><br />Use OMC HI-VIS lube or equivalent for all 3. Any hi-vis lower unit lube will do, but most mechanics will tell you to use the OEM stuff if possible. I use penzoil hi-vis from the local wallmart, but I'm not keeping the boat for long...<br /><br />I highly suggest you buy a service guide; check amazon. The original OMC is the best one (you can find them on e-bay pretty often), but the others will do for standard maintenance chores. You're gonna need one!<br /><br />Tom

 

[tmclendon]

Re: Replacing Transom Boot (seal)

By the way, get a good boat mechanic to replace the impeller for you (as long as you are doing that, replace the whole water pump, it's about the same labor, parts aren't that much more). You DO NOT want to try this yourself on a stringer unless you really know what you are doing!!<br /><br />I know most people tell you to replace the impeller every couple of years, but mine lasted from 83 to 94 (and it didn't fail then, just had them replace it while the lower unit was being rebuilt), and the one put in in 94 is still working fine. NEVER run the engine dry. Don't even crank it over.<br /><br />Tom