Replacing recoil starter spring

[Meaux]

How do I go about replacing a broken recoil starter spring on a Model 4436 R Evinrude 3 hp yatchtwin. Are there any websites that describe the procedure? There has got to be an easier way than those that I've already tried. Please advise.<br /><br />Meaux

 

[JB]

Re: Replacing recoil starter spring

It is a tricky operation, Meaux.<br /><br />The Service Manual helps a lot, but it is not perfect.<br /><br />I usually connect the innermost end and feed the rest in gradually while turning the drum.<br /><br />Please wear safety goggles and good rawhide gloves.<br /><br />Good luck.

 

[Thompy_04]

Re: Replacing recoil starter spring

I have the same problem on my '60 Johnson 18 horsepower, broken recoil starter spring. But from what I have been told, and what my plan of action is is to save the little hook if you still have it. Drill out the old rivot and then drill a hole in the spring that you still have. Use the correct size screw and nut and just reuse the old hook. Simple enough I would suppose, but I really haven't got into it luckly my oldie came with the optional electric start and have wired that up. Hope this helps.

 

[Meaux]

Re: Replacing recoil starter spring

Thanks a lot for the input guys---I slept on this last nite and am ready to try again today. One more question---did you remove the recoil unit entirely from the motor while working on it or did you have the bottom plate still attached to the motor head?? It seems like even if I was able to get the spring into the recoil housing, I'd still have a devil of a time spuding the mounting bolt through the unit while trying to hold it altogether----any thoughts here?

 

[petrolhead]

Re: Replacing recoil starter spring

I've done it a couple of times now, on my 18 and my Lightwin, actually found it pretty easy. I just followed the instructions in the Seloc manual, the only tricky bit was lining up the pin and hole when I replaced the pulley, but there are holes in the top (bottom, you're working upside down!) of the pulley and with a good light you can sight through there and line them up.<br />You have to carefully bend the inner end so that the hole is as near the right position as you can get it, then it goes in with no trouble.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Replacing recoil starter spring

Meaux - that model number checks out as a '74 4hp. I get it now - they have very a different starter than the earlier 3hp.<br /><br />I've got to admit - this is one tricky starter to deal with. While it works well when assembled, it's a pain in the neck to work on. You are quite right about the mounting bolt being difficult to stake. But it's not that bad if the rewind is not under tension.<br /><br />You must remove the entire recoil unit, and take it all apart. Then feed the spring into the housing. That's the dangerous part. Put the pulley on catching the spring with the pin (tricky) and reassemble and install the starter using either your 6 hands or a clamp. I find those 'jumper cable' type clamps are essential for working on this particulair unit.<br /><br />At this point, I leave out the small bolt at the back of the starter and tilt it so that when the swing arm kicks up, it does not engage the flywheel. Then I tension the starter by winding the rope around it. Finally, attach the pull start handle at the end of the rope (outside the cowling) using a figure-8 stop knot. I find it helps to pull a lot of rope through the cowling and tie on a screwdriver or something to prevent it from retracting. Then you can take your time getting the pull start handle installed.<br /><br />Once you have the little bolt installed and the starter's adjusted so that the small gear completely engages the flywheel, make sure that the spark plug wires are not catching on the starter when you reach full throttle. The sharp sheet metal of the starter can really lacerate the plug wires.<br /><br /><br />Good luck and patience!

 

[Meaux]

Re: Replacing recoil starter spring

Paul Moir--<br /><br /> You are exactly right! I misspoke in my first post --my motor is a 4 hp made in 1974---thanks for the correction--<br /> <br /><br /> Your instructions are just what I was looking for--I'll give it a try as soon as I can locate a new spring---- I live in a small town in the high desert country of Eastern Oregon and we do not have a good source of parts---I found the spring on-line for about 15 dollars plus 7 bucks S & H. Seems a bit high to me but it beats starting my little motor with a rope every time.<br /><br />Thanks again for the great instructions<br /><br />Kindest regards,<br /><br />Meaux

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Replacing recoil starter spring

Check out your local NAPA Autoparts dealer. They may not know they carry it, so it may take some convincing. Get them to dig out their 'Marine Catalog'. They use the same part numbers as Iboats, etc: 18-6511.

 

[Meaux]

Re: Replacing recoil starter spring

Paul Moir<br /><br /> As of this writing, I have heated and rebent a "new" hook for the inner pin--- I did retemper the spring after applying the heat so it may last until I can get a factory spring. I was able to reassemble the unit but by hand winding the spring starting at the inner pin and hooking the outer bend to the outside plate and pressing together until I could spud the mounting bolt through it. <br /><br />Surprising enough, I did it the first try and bare handed----no blood---I was lucky. I could never work in gloves. It's held together in my vice right now and I'll clamp it as you suggest before trying to assemble it to the motor. I'll check with our local NAPA people for a replacement spring.<br /><br />Again, thanks much for giving me the inspriration,<br />method and courage to proceed.<br /><br />The guys on this web site are great people and very helpful. They are really appreciated.<br /><br />Regards,<br /><br />Meaux

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Replacing recoil starter spring

Hey, if you have the thing assembled and still have your wits about you, you've done good. <br />I have to admit, my '72 4hp has a 'refabricated' rewind spring in it - I used a very small screw and nut to make the loop. I do carry a peice of rope to emergency start it, but it hasn't been necessary yet. <br />These little engines were very successful. I belive the first one was released in 1951 (as a 3hp, like petrolhead's 1959 model), and they finally redesigned the engine completely in the mid-eighties. By that point, it was a 4.5hp owing to a number of improvements they made over the years.<br />Thanks for the feedback Meaux, it really made my day.

 

[Meaux]

Re: Replacing recoil starter spring

Hey Paul Moir,<br /><br /> Success is ours! The job is finished as of 7:00 AM this morning. Not having a small enough clamp to hold pressure on the rewind unit while bolting it to the motor, I just held it together with two strips of duct tape while spuding in the main bolt to the engine. Your suggestion of leaving the small bracket bolt out 'til last was<br />the key to easy tensioning of the spring. I guess the most time consuming part of the whole job was threading the pull rope onto the pulley and tensioning the spring. It took me two trys before I realized that the rope had to be wound on in a clockwise direction. Duh??? Oh well, live and learn. <br /><br />Your help has made my day! <br /><br /> I'll be taking <br />the little 4 horse out to the Snake River (Oregon/Idaho bordor just up river from Hell's canyon) this coming Wednesday for the final test. I will take along my spare pull rope just in case .<br /><br />Thanks again Paul--it's been great<br /><br />Meaux <br />P.S. My next job is putting new brushes in the starter/generator on my E-Z-Go golf cart---<br />Any suggestions? LOL