Replacing Points

[phoodieman]

1967 Super Sea Horse 40 HP RDSL-29

My skeg and LGC rebuild went very well and now that I am confident the unit is viable I am ready to tune up. I read the TSF sticky on checking the points and this looks fairly straight forward. The service manual calls for a timing bracket (In the special tools section), and an ohm meter. Can a feeler gauge do just as good of a job without the timing bracket?

Phoodieman

 

[Rick.]

Re: Replacing Points

Yes. Make sure the lobe has the points as wide open as possible then set them to .020
Best of luck. Rick.

 

[seahorse5]

Re: Replacing Points

For adjusting brand new points, the recommendation is 0.022" gap to allow a bit of "wear in" of the rubbing block. Used points should be 0.020"

In contrast, on older motors with worn magneto plates and play in the crankshaft bearings, sometimes a closer gap can alleviate a hard to find high speed misfire. The slop in the plate and bearings can make the points open wider than what they were originally set for while the motor is running.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Replacing Points

(Point Setting Of Magneto Models)
(J. Reeves)

Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubber portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.

NOTE: Should the operating cam have a small portion on it with the word "SET" imprinted, align this portion with the fiber rubbing portion instead of the flywheel key.

 

[phoodieman]

Re: Replacing Points

If I machine this out of some 1/2 inch 1018 will this work as a flywheel puller for this 40 HP Johnson? The slots will have clearance for a #8 1/4-20 bolt. I'll put a fine thread 3/4 or 7/8 thread in the center for the jack screw. I know a low cost puller might work, but I can make this for zero cost.

Phoodieman

 

[mables]

Re: Replacing Points

Not to derail the thread or take away from the Op's issue but on the stator/timing base there is a sticker on my motor that says .010 is this acceptable or should all points on all motors across the years and hp be set to .020? And as far as making your own puller that looks exactly like the factory tool for the job so I don't see why it wouldn't work.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Replacing Points

Mables..... Point settings will vary for various engines. What I had to say is proper for that 1967 40hp model. I assume you have a later model 3 or 4 cylinder model that incorporates Battery Capacitance Discharge ignition.

 

[mables]

Re: Replacing Points

Yeah the motor in my sig is the one I was referencing, I was just getting clarification as in the TSF's and in many other posts about the points the setting was always .020 so I wasn't sure if that was a later learned trick to john/rudes or something.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Replacing Points

Mables.... PM sent.