Replacing my U-Joint bellows

[Vince275]

I need to replace my u-joint bellows and was told it would be 340$ in labor. So instead of paying someone else I will do it myself. So I need to know how to do this. I was told I need to remove my stern drive and after that it will be easy. I ordered the bellows and the sealant, but I am still not sure how to remove the entire stern drive. It looks like 6 bolts and disconnecting the tilt hydraulic rams but I'd like to know before I go. I probably should buy the manual but I am a cheap navy sailor and am trying to be extra conservative with the little money I do have.

88-89 Ford - OMC cobra

 

[Don S]

Re: Replacing my U-Joint bellows

I probably should buy the manual but I am a cheap navy sailor and am trying to be extra conservative with the little money I do have.

That manual is what is going to make certain you do things right and not do more harm than good in your repairs and troubleshooting. Professionals use manuals, why shouldn't DIYers. Seems to me, the DIYer needs it more than the pros.

There is absolutely nothing about owning a boat that is "EXTRA Conservative"

 

[sethjon]

Re: Replacing my U-Joint bellows

You are right about the OD removal. Once off you need to remove the pivot housing. Thats easy to see and takes no time. Then the bellows needs to removed with a long screw drive for the top, the bottom simply gets pulled off. Putting it on is also easy. While the OD is off I am assuming you are going to check the gimbal. If so you will a bearing puller and of course the dust seal behind it. If those are good, all you need to do is put the OD back on. for that you will need the alignment tool. Don't even try to do it without that tool. they are cheap, maybe $65-80. Make sure you lube the end of the shaft before trying to do it. Thats about as simple an explanation I can give you. Amanual is reccomended but not necessary for this particular repair, but better safe than have aproblem in the middle of the repair.

 

[sea wolf]

Re: Replacing my U-Joint bellows

Leave the seal. Unless it's damaged, don't bother with it. Make sure the hose clamp is at the 2 o'clock position when u reassemble everything or the screw head will hit the hydraulic line for the trim/tilt when you're steering to the right. I also use liquid gasket sealer on both ends of the bellows to help prevent water intrusion.

 

[DBreskin]

Re: Replacing my U-Joint bellows

As you can see from Sea Wolf's post, there are things you need to be aware of that you'll never know about without a manual. Although the official OMC manual is best, your better off with an aftermarket manual like Seloc than with nothing at all. If you won't spend $40 on a manual you'll end up spending much more on unexpected repairs.
FYI, you DON'T need to remove the pivot housing; I've replaced my bellows with the pivot housing in place. You DO need to purchase/borrow and use an alignment tool to reinstall your drive.

Good luck!

 

[Vince275]

Re: Replacing my U-Joint bellows

I purchased the Seloc manual. Now it's just a waiting game.

 

[Vince275]

Re: Replacing my U-Joint bellows

Took off the stern drive, no problem. Found pieces of metal in the bellows. Apparently it came from the pivot housing. New bellows has been ordered, but I don't know what to do about the rough edges in the pic.

 

[Idlespeedonly]

Re: Replacing my U-Joint bellows

I'd cry, after that cry some more. That is going to be a problem. If you are lucky you may be able to have it repaired.

 

[kylejb2663]

Re: Replacing my U-Joint bellows

What exactly are the rough edges from and how can that be repaired?? I have never seen anything like that. I will be taking my outdrives off this year which are OMC Cobra's... Has me nervous!

 

[Idlespeedonly]

Re: Replacing my U-Joint bellows

A bearing most likely let go at some point. Could have been a u-joint, gimble bearing or even the input shaft bearing can do that. It is from the u-joint yokes flopping around in there. The previous owner knew about it. You will have a bad vibration and noise when it happens. That is another reason you pull the drives off every season. Even then it still happens.

 

[RandyJ]

Re: Replacing my U-Joint bellows

YUP! I had a very similar scenario on my 260. A previous owner had hit a sand bar and knocked the outdrive off. I put lots of TLC in putting in a new long block only to make my maiden voyage out to hear the yoke and u-joint banging like crazy. Luckily we made it back to the dock SLOWLY. When I pulled the outdrive it looked like the one in the picture. I had to replace the transom mount, all new bellows, and replace the yoke and universal joint. Fortunately I found an old 470 on a carlot and got the whole boat for $500 just to rob the parts off of it and already had another junker with the transom mount on it. Fortunately I've got 4 old mercruiser boats and 2 junkers that I can swap parts on.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Replacing my U-Joint bellows

Curious, did you know your u-joints had let go before you took off your bellows? You need a whole new gimbal housing.

 

[Lou C]

Re: Replacing my U-Joint bellows

Yep that's about the only way I can figure that happening, the j-joints let go, and it looks like there was water in there for a while. Unfortunately, this is going to be a BIG repair. Engine pull, new outer transom plate. Sorry about that.
If I ever bought another I/O used, I'd want the drive pulled off as part of a pre-purchase inspection. Neglect of sterndrive maintenance can cost you thousands, as this proves. I take my Cobra off every year to check the bellows, gimble and ujoints. Pays off and if you have an I/O either you pay a little now or a LOT later. The nature of the I/O beast.....