Replacing alpha one retainer nut

[jonny rotten]

Alpha one Gen one
The nut doesn't slide over the u joints
Can I slide out the shaft and bearing and whatever else is in there and just slide it back in easy with some new grease?
or....
Are there shims and possible issues involved that I definitely don't want to get involved with redoing the outdrive
I could punch out the u joints but if the shafts simply slides in and out I'd rather do that for simplicity

Reason for changing is a few of the tabs are snapped off and I'm getting water in the u joint bellows and read the fat o ring could get deformed with tabs missing and let water in.
I'm hoping is a simple outdrive gasket leak and starting here before ripping out the u joint bellows while I have the outdrive off

I guess what I'm asking is what's the easiest way to remove/install the retainer nut

 

[dubs283]

the only way to remove/install the retainer ring is to remove the driveshaft/bearing assy and dismantle it

 

[alldodge]

A1 G1
I don't think missing tabs will cause water to enter, but no expert. Maybe we can get @Bondo or @Bt Doctur to comment

 

[Bondo]

A1 G1
I don't think missing tabs will cause water to enter, but no expert. Maybe we can get @Bondo or @Bt Doctur to comment

Ayuh,.... The big o-ring lives 3" from that nut,..... No connection,....

 

[IanFS]

I did mine a few years back. As other replies have said, there is no connection with water ingress in the bellows and the bearings retainer nut. Bellows may have a small nick in them or you have a bad gasket. If you have water in the drive bellows check the Gimbal Bearing.

 

[jonny rotten]

Ayuh,.... The big o-ring lives 3" from that nut,..... No connection,....

It sounds like the retainer nut and oring will have no bearing on water infiltration in the bellows so that's good.... But according to my measurements I have 2 7/8 to where it sits in the cavity and 2 and 5/8 to the nut. A difference of a quarter inch which is the exact width of the fat o-ring..... But as long as you're saying if I'm missing three teeth on the nut and the o-ring won't deform and it has no bearing whatsoever with water infiltration I'm perfectly okay with not touching it.... I have the wrench so cranking it down without the teeth is not an issue...... If the o-ring has no bearing on water getting in I'm curious why it's even there? What is it doing?

 

[kenny nunez]

The large “O” ring must be glued in place. The way it works is like if you submerged a drinking glass upside in water as you know there is a air chamber formed.
One thing to be cautious about is if any of the area where the large spanner nut is eroded away on the driveshaft housing from galvanic action then water will enter the bellows.
The same goes for the forward lip in the bell housing is missing any material where the large “O” ring seats.

 

[jonny rotten]

The large “O” ring must be glued in place. The way it works is like if you submerged a drinking glass upside in water as you know there is a air chamber formed.
One thing to be cautious about is if any of the area where the large spanner nut is eroded away on the driveshaft housing from galvanic action then water will enter the bellows.
The same goes for the forward lip in the bell housing is missing any material where the large “O” ring seats.

So your saying the o ring does in fact stop water from entering the bellows.
The lip on the outdrive and the lip on the bellhousing line up and the distance apart is the exact thickness of the o ring. It makes sense the oring compresses when the outdrive is bolted down.
This differs from the previous responses.

Does it makes sense that if the gasket fails the o ring is there to stop water from entering the bellows?
Trying to narrow down my point of water entering the bellows in order of elimination before ripping out possibly perfectly good bellows

What do you recommend for glue?
Will the 3m weather stripping adhesive work. I have that from the bellows job.
Also does it get glued on both sides so it bonds to the outdrive? I've never used adhesive on that O ring in the past

 

[dubs283]

the portion of the retainer that has the tabs for engaging with the special tool does fit into the inside diameter of the large quad ring located in the bellhousing. the portion of the tab that is threaded is of a larger diameter and the fwd most edge of the retainer does seat lightly against the quad ring, it is a backup/secondary seal to the large gasket between the housing and the drive and if the shift shaft bushing has failed it will prevent water from the exhaust passage from entering the u joint bellows.

the quad ring does not need to to be glued in place, it merely requires three - four light dabs of bellows adhesive around the outside to hold it in place while the drive is installed. the seal comes from the rubber making contact directly with the aluminum. i've seen a lot of leaks caused by excess glue/adhesive/silicone/grease, etc...located around the quad ring

 

[IanFS]

Agree with dubs, the ring is there as a back up but not as an initial water seal/gasket. The Alpha Manual does not mention gluing it in place, unlike the SE116 videos where they lather it on, but dubs idea of the dabs of bellows adhesive which is essentially an impact adhesive worked for me.
For reference, I've attached a picture of my bell housing and have drawn a rough line where the Quicksilver Drive/Bell housing Gasket has a thin rubber insert, which is the actual seal which stops water entering the bellows/drive. I have also referenced where the large O ring sits, which is against a lip in the bell housing.
In addition, there are arrows pointing to area's where there may be possible leakages as well as the bellows themselves or even the water inlet O ring. The area around the shift cable entry is very thin and when tightening the nuts can push the gasket out of line so seepage/ingress may occur. Also the old style of Shift Shaft Seal is pretty useless, if you have the old style, throw it away and install the new style.
I hope this helps a little more.

 

[Eric 3.7LX Alpha 1]

Agree with dubs, the ring is there as a back up but not as an initial water seal/gasket. The Alpha Manual does not mention gluing it in place, unlike the SE116 videos where they lather it on, but dubs idea of the dabs of bellows adhesive which is essentially an impact adhesive worked for me.
For reference, I've attached a picture of my bell housing and have drawn a rough line where the Quicksilver Drive/Bell housing Gasket has a thin rubber insert, which is the actual seal which stops water entering the bellows/drive. I have also referenced where the large O ring sits, which is against a lip in the bell housing.
In addition, there are arrows pointing to area's where there may be possible leakages as well as the bellows themselves or even the water inlet O ring. The area around the shift cable entry is very thin and when tightening the nuts can push the gasket out of line so seepage/ingress may occur. Also the old style of Shift Shaft Seal is pretty useless, if you have the old style, throw it away and install the new style.
I hope this helps a little more.

nice explanation there. I agree check to see if you have to old style shift shaft bushing/seal. If so, upgrade it to the new style.