Replacement of Modeling covering seam

c.fish

Cadet
Joined
Apr 20, 2004
Messages
24
When my boat was launched last year it was place into the water with a "Sling". I believe the sling loosened the seam between the top half and the hull. I noticed water coming in through the transom fiberglass when under power at higher speeds. I found some chaulk missing around metal (that holds the bumper guard) that runs around the boat. This covers the seam. My guess is that water travel up and into area behind the bumper guard and traveled down the seam channel and found its way into the boat. So I chaulked the metal to fiberglass where ever I noticed a gap. This reduced the flow, but I am still getting a annoying amount of leakage.<br />The rubber is old and thinned in areas. I was thinking of removing the bumper guard and metal exposing the seam. Chaulking the seam,and then adding a new bumper. Where does one get a new bumper? I am going about this right? ThanKs
 

Dunaruna

Admiral
Joined
May 2, 2003
Messages
6,027
Re: Replacement of Modeling covering seam

cfish, the bumpers are available in many different profiles (incl. end caps). They are readily available in most marine stores and mail order companies (i-boats ?).<br /><br />Your post raises some questions, why is the water coming in up that high (rough seas?) and maybe the sling caused more damage than just loosening caulk.<br /><br />I'm probably of base here but if you post more info on type of boat etc. you'll get responses from people a lot more knowledgable than myself.<br /><br />Aldo
 

Link

Rear Admiral
Joined
Apr 13, 2003
Messages
4,221
Re: Replacement of Modeling covering seam

Welcome to IBOATS c.fish <br /><br />
I was thinking of removing the bumper guard and metal exposing the seam. Chaulking the seam,and then adding a new bumper. Where does one get a new bumper? I am going about this right? ThanKs
Yes that is the correct way to build a boat in the first place. Or fix the problem in your case. IMO :) <br />You actually chaulk inbetween the upper and lower part of the boat where the upper fiberglass slips over the bottom.<br /><br />However it is comman practice for a lot of boat builders (to keep the cost down) to just run a quick seam of chalk under the rub rail.<br />Works 99% of the time for the first owner.<br /><br />Around the stern (where new boat buyers can see them) you most likely find SS through bolts with SS Lock nuts and washers. The rest of the boat will most likely have Alum pop rivets. Replace them all with SS through bolts washers and SS lock nuts.<br /><br />I did a 19-20 Cuddy Cabin in a day.<br />I also used 3M 5200 to seal the two pieces together. That boat aint comming apart again very easy!<br />Note if you use 5200 to seal the hull together and there are some places like mabe a bulkhead is inside and you cant get to the back side to use a bolt then just rivet it in those spots as the 5200 will make for it.<br /><br />Just my thoughts<br />Keep us posted.<br /><br />Link
 
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