Removing hose bib

[Drowned Rat]

I have a hose nozzle that is sweated onto 1/2" pipe and I'm trying to replace it but I can't get it off. I've tried heating the thing and applying some torque, but it won't budge. I've been using a propane torch and I "think" I'm getting it hot enough (perhaps too hot) but is it worth trying a MAPP gas torch to get it hotter quicker?? There are only about 2 inches of pipe sticking out of the house so I'm worried about getting it too hot and melting or burning something inside the wall.

Does anyone have any advice?

Thanks so much.

 

[jameskb2]

Re: Removing hose bib

Yep,

If it's a sweat on, and also has the threaded fitting in it, (you can tell by looking at it as it has a "hex nut" style flange) then it will have to be heated very well, through and through as the bib's quite thick there. You can, and should, remove the packing and shaft / stop to reduce mass and let steam escape from the water still in it. (It'll dry out and heat up faster) If there's water left in the pipe, it'll take a long time to get it up to temp to melt the solder!

However, if you have a little access behind it, you can cut the pipe off "short", install the new one, REMOVE THE PACKING nut and guts, and solder a small piece of pipe back in using a union. You could also buy an NPT threaded copper fitting to sweat on to your pipe, (double check the length for this) and buy a new bib with the threaded fitting. Then just sweat the NPT fitting on, thread the bib on tight (use teflon tape or pipe dope) and screw it onto the house outside.

Don't forget to use flux when sweating copper.

 

[MikDee]

Re: Removing hose bib

You gotta make sure the water source behind it is completely off, then make sure you've got all the water out, as it will be drawn to the heat source, also make sure the valve is fully open to cook out any leftover droplets, then just heat the sweated part, and grab it with a pliers, or channel locks, try turning it one way or the other, & pull it off, then wipe off the hot soldered pipe with some steel wool once you get it off,,, But, be careful it's all gonna be hot!


You shouldn't need Mapp gas, unless it's cold out, or there's wind.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Removing hose bib

Ayuh,.....

MikDee is Right,.....

If there's Any water in the pipe,.... You'll Never get it Off......

 

[dimock44]

Re: Removing hose bib

Try heating it up 1 more time, just enough to put some flux on it and let it suck the flux in and Then try to remove again. I have also added more solder after after refluxing and then let it cool and try again. When you get copper too hot it rejects the solder. The melted solder acts as a lubricant to help the fitting slide off. Be sure and let cool or cool it with a wet rag between attemps.

 

[MrBigStuff]

Re: Removing hose bib

Cut it off with a tubing cutter, reciprocating saw or hacksaw. Clean up the end and stuff a small bit of white bread up into the pipe to stop any water from interfering with the soldering job. The bread swells up and blocks the water from sapping your heat away. The bread will rapidly disintegrate and be flushed from the bib when you turn the water back on. Do the normal sweating preparation. MAPP gas is far and away a better heat source because it is much hotter than propane. The joint will heat to the soldering temp much faster and you'll end up heating less of the pipe, especially where it comes in contact with anything flammable or damaged by heat.

 

[Drowned Rat]

Re: Removing hose bib

Great suggestions, thanks! Well it sounds like my problem is water left over in the pipe then. I have the house supply turned off, but this pipe will sit there and drip water for hours. The bread idea sound interesting. I don't have enough room to cut it with a tubing cutter because it won't leave enough material, but I may can use a hack saw to cut right next to the bib. I just hope I can get the new one back on.

Thanks again, I'll let you know what happens.

 

[i386]

Re: Removing hose bib

I'll never use anything but a mapp torch on pipes again (if I ever do it again). Yes, they are hotter, but they heat the solder joint quickly. It took my propane torch so long to get the solder to melt that the heat spreading up the pipe melted the plastic valve cartridge in my brand new $150 shower faucet set.:redface: I received an education that day. I still suck at plumbing but I won't make that mistake again. The joys of home ownership and diy when you don't know what you're doing.

 

[Bass Man Bruce]

Re: Removing hose bib

Mrbigstuffs idea is tried and true but you gotta be quick, the bread doesn't last long. Like others said, if theres any water in there your never gonna get it done.
I don't know what it's like in Az. but here in Michigan the solder joint for a hose bib is inside the house (freeze protection). A hose bib is ten or twelve inches long, could be worth looking into.

 

[dimock44]

Re: Removing hose bib

If you can get an compressor open a faucet in the the house and blow it backward. Lower it to about 20 lbs so as not to damage any thing. Do it several times until it quits dripping. Also a hamburger or hot dog bun will last longer. Tamp it in with a rod as far back as you can and add as much as you can. Then enjoy the toast.

 

[Drowned Rat]

Re: Removing hose bib

dimock44, I though about that, but was afraid I'd blow something up. I'll give that a try. The water just never stops, I don't know where it's coming from unless the supply valve also leaks. Can I just open the hose valve on the opposite side of the house and blow some air in there? Or should I open multiple faucets?

 

[dimock44]

Re: Removing hose bib

Blow it back from the one your working on. You have to do it several times because the water in the higher pipes keeps running down. When you first turn off the water open the cold water faucet that is the highest and go have a beer. This will bleed off most of the water. Don't open any hot water. Its common for the cut offs to leak a little. If its the type that is at the street and only turns 1/4 of a turn check that it isn't turned past the 90 degree angle. As they wear out they sometimes go past that point and leak a little. Usually the hose bibbs are the lowest or if the other one is lower drain it there first. If you have any elevation on your lot put a hose on the lowest faucet and vent it through the highest. It will help siphon the water out of the system. If any other faucets are lower than the one your working on Leave it open and depending on the piping it might take any incoming water. If you have to hire a plumber get one that drinks and buy a lot of beer. If its a bad leak put a hose end cap on it until you can get it fixed. Good Luck

 

[Drowned Rat]

Re: Removing hose bib

Alright thanks, I'll give that a try. Also, I was turning the water off where it enters the house. I hadn't thought to turn it off at the street, maybe that valve won't leak. Thanks a bunch.

 

[Drowned Rat]

Re: Removing hose bib

Well, I guess I'm giving up. I've never seen anything like this. I think I got all the water out, I've heated it up to the melting point of copper I think and it won't budge. Not sure what else I can do.

 

[Xcusme]

Re: Removing hose bib

One last thought before you throw in the towel...

Can you ADD solder to the heated joint? Will it freely flow around the pipe? If it does, it's hot enough to pull apart.

Frankly, if it comes to it, cut the pipe off inside and solder in a section of new pipe with a coupler....

You can wrap the pipe in a 1" strip of cloth soaked in water to stop the heat flow away from the fitting when you need to control heat flow along the pipe. Keep the cloth strip as far away from the fitting as possible.

 

[jameskb2]

Re: Removing hose bib

You're in AZ I see. That means you're probably on a slab foundation, the water heater and furnace if you have one is in the garage or attic?

It sound's like your pipe runs up and down in the wall no?

I can help you, but there's some details missing.

Also, often times when you go to drain a cold line, it will begin siphoning off the water in your hot water tank. Turn off the valve on the hot water tank, turn off the valve that enters the house, and as said, open the highest point valve HOT AND COLD in the house. Open the hose bib and let it drain. It should stop within 10 minutes at most.

A picture would be great.

 

[Drowned Rat]

Re: Removing hose bib

Well, I decided to cut it and braze on a new valve. There wasn't much room left so I didn't really want to do that. Here's the funny thing, when I cut it, the tubing inside was completely dry and when I brazed on the new fitting, it went on lickety split. The solder melted easily and instantly. I still can't figure out why the other one wouldn't come off. Anyway, it's all good now. Thanks for all the tips. This site is awesome!

 

[i386]

Re: Removing hose bib

I'm glad you got it. I've had my arse kicked by plumbing so many times I've lost count. I'm to the point now that I will just call a plumber if I have any doubt. I have a lot of respect for those guys.

 

[WizeOne]

Re: Removing hose bib

Well, I decided to cut it and braze on a new valve. There wasn't much room left so I didn't really want to do that. Here's the funny thing, when I cut it, the tubing inside was completely dry and when I brazed on the new fitting, it went on lickety split. The solder melted easily and instantly. I still can't figure out why the other one wouldn't come off. Anyway, it's all good now. Thanks for all the tips. This site is awesome!

FWIIW DR, I just had that happen on a twenty year old frost free hose bib. I cut the feed pipe and pulled the hose bib out of the wall. I was trying to unsolder the 1/2" male pipe adaptor that screwed into the back of the hose bib. I wanted to reuse it. Ablolutely no dice. I ended up twisting the piece of copper pipe into a pretzel trying to rotate it out of the male adaptor.

I threw the whole thing into the metal recylce bin ( aren't I a good comrade) and went down and bought another male adaptor.