removing flywheel on 1957 johnson seahorse 35 hp

Seanmccullar

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Hello. I recently purchased a 1957 johnson seahorse 35 hp RDE-19. I have never worked on an outboard (or engine for that matter) but purchased a cook service manual with the intent to tear this down, paint and rebuild the motor (very aspirational!).
My first problem is removing the flywheel. I removed the nut from the crankshaft and have used the pictured flywheel puller. I have put as much pressure on this as I can (including penetrating oil) but it won't budge. Am I missing anything? Is there another bolt to remove? I am starting from scratch here, so assume I really don't know anything.
Thank you.
Sean
 

GA_Boater

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Welcome aboard.

That really isn't the right tool to use because you can damage the flywheel. But since you have it clinched down and tight, hit the the long bolt in the center of the tool with a hammer - Hard. It will pop off. Watch out for the thing flying across the room. It's best to leave the flywheel nut loose on the crankshaft.

You really need a puller more like this;

puller.PNG
 

HighTrim

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Yeah get a harmonic balancer puller, with grade 8 bolts. 1/4-20 by about 3 inches or so long.

The big twin flywheels can really be on there, sometimes need a lot of tightening to get them to pop off. It can be loud, and you will think you broke something your first time, but that's normal!
 

F_R

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Many of us were horrified to look at that first picture. A perfect example of what NOT to do. And a very good way to bend the flywheel. Use the right kind of puller, one that pulls by the bolts in the center.
 

flyingscott

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A lot of people just tighten the puller until it bends or put breaker bars/impact guns on them and end up having them go flying into garage corners and generally make it unsafe. You should be able to tighten everything by hand. Here is how I do it put the puller on get it even put the strap wrench on the flywheel. Then tighten the puller as tight as you can and hit the puller bolt twice with a carpenters hammer 16-20 oz you don't need a sledge. If it doesn't break free a little more tightening and hitting. I have never broken a puller and never had a flywheel go flying and never had one that didn't come off. I do not have a good puller bought a cheap one that I have been using for 10 yrs
 

Seanmccullar

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Thank you all. I will look for a bolt type puller. I do have compression and appreciate the secret tips page!
Wish me luck!
 

gm280

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The correct puller with those grade 8 bolts is the correct way to pull one. And yes put the center nut on a few threads just to be safe. And follow the suggestions above. They are telling you the best way. It will make a loud crack when it lets loose, and you will think it did break, but it is just the sound of it breaking loose. JMHO!
 

geoffwga1

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And above all,be patient,I have had it take up to a week of tightening and tapping before *** broke free,then went out one morning and there it was waiting for me.
 

flyingscott

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There is no tapping involved you tighten the puller as tight as you can by hand and then you whack it. Brute force is involved that fly wheel is press fit tapping will cost you time. You use carpenter hammers because a good hard whack doesn't send the crank out the bottom of the block. Use the same motion as driving a nail
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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The flywheel tapers are what is called a " locking taper "---------The flywheel nut pushing down stretches / expands the bore of the flywheel over the crankshaft taper.-----That fit drives the flywheel.----The key locates the flywheel for proper ignition spark.
 

F_R

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Almost if not as much important is putting the flywheel back on. Doing it wrong will damage or destroy the motor. Shaft and flywheel tapers MUST be clean and dry. Then you must use a torque wrench to tighten the nut to 60-65 foot pounds. Don't think you can guess at it.
 
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