Removing bearing carrier from DP-SM

[Jason_SJC]

She's a salty mess. I had a frozen forward prop that I had to cut off the outer shaft. Then I had a frozen retainer ring that over 1500 ft lbs of torque would not budge. I cut that out, too.

Now I have a 5lb sliding hammer attached to the bearing carrier and I'm beating on it like crazy, to little or no avail. My depth gauge says it's moved about an eighth of an inch, but I'm not sure about that. We've soaked it in PB Blaster for 5 days straight, after removing as much crust as possible from the housing/O-ring interface using a sharp awl.

While trying to move the retainer ring, we heated the case with acetylene to ~600F. I didn't want to do that for this part just yet, in case the heat would cook out the penetrant. Not sure if those tricks are mutually exclusive, or if I'd be well served to purposefully burn the O-ring material away from the housing.

Am I missing something here? I'm about ready to cut this part out, too, but it's $600+ new.

Current Situation:



Prior fun removing the thrust plate:

 

[alldodge]

Man that's a bummer

 

[alldodge]

Why not take the drive off the boat and separate the halves?

 

[Jason_SJC]

I will be doing that, since I'm taking the case to get the chip welded up. Do you think it's easier to do this on the bench than mounted in the air? I might get more solid transfer of the shock force.

 

[alldodge]

I would be soaking with oil and using heat before needing that amount of shock load. Have not done a VP but have done Merc B3's and nothing should take that amount of force. Removing the retaing nut was ruff on one, but still had it removed to work on

Member zool has taken months to remove one piston, ya have to have patience

 

[Jason_SJC]

Isn't it true that the carrier is riding on rubber O-rings? The carrier metal is probably 50 thousandths or more smaller than the bore of the housing, right? I don't even understand what's fighting me on this.

I think I know what you're suggesting, that I can pull the lower and put it into a container of light oil. Great suggestion. But I can't understand why a neoprene band is being so stubborn!

 

[alldodge]

Need some like @muc To advise. If he doesn't come maybe send him a pm

I just don't know enough about the drive. Maybe @Scott Danforth might also advise

 

[Scott Danforth]

your fighting corrosion

 

[Jason_SJC]

your fighting corrosion

I have been spraying oil on the corrosion at the aft end of the carrier. Is there also corrosion on the front end that I'm not getting to?

Tomorrow I'm planning to heat up the housing, hoping those O-rings will give up and let my people go. If that doesn't work I'll bring a plastic tub out and dunk the unit in an oil bath. Or maybe I can get a poly trash bag to wrap around the unit with a bungee, to reduce the volume of oil necessary and stop evaporation.

 

[Scott Danforth]

the issue is that the housing is growing inward with corrosion and the bearing carrier is growing outward with corrosion.

skip the oil. mix up 50% acetone and 50% ATF. remember, the oil isnt there to remove corrosion. its there to aid in the corrosion peaks to slide past each other.

 

[Jason_SJC]

600F on the housing and no movement. So I used a contractor bag and duct tape to make a soaking tub. 50/50 acetone and ATF, with a fair amount of dish detergent to help the miscibility. I'll give it a couple days and then decide if I'm going to cut out the carrier or not.

 

[Bt Doctur]

 

[Bt Doctur]

that came from here
file:///C:/Users/Edeward%20J/Downloads/volvo%20penta%20workshop%20manual.pdf

 

[Jason_SJC]

Thanks. That's the DPS-A/B drive, I believe. Mine is the DP-SM and has a different retaining ring, but uses the same extraction tool shown in this diagram. But that tool would literally strip the threads off my outer prop shaft before it would pull that carrier free.

 

[Jason_SJC]

I bought a freshwater donor case off eBay, so this case is irrelevant to me. I cut the carrier out, which I am probablyh keeping for the new build.
My uncle ran a dive boat from Summerland Key for decades. He knows about salty outdrives and told my father if that outdrive came into a shop they would burn every last bit of paint off with multiple acetylene torches on it. We simply didn't get it hot enough.

The donor case was good, but a catastrophic failure ruined every bearing inside. I used the carrier from it to know where I wanted my cuts to land:


Then I made a preliminary excision hoping to pry the carrier aft. No luck, so I made more cuts until it was all but free, then tapped it out nice and easy. I left the top and bottom radii intact, because the bearing race extractor tool levers against that aft rim.




The pinion nut is really easy to get to now!

 

[Itwrx]

Thanks. That's the DPS-A/B drive, I believe. Mine is the DP-SM and has a different retaining ring, but uses the same extraction tool shown in this diagram. But that tool would literally strip the threads off my outer prop shaft before it would pull that carrier free.

I’m having the same issue with my Volvo penta DP – SM. Were you able to get the carrier out if so, how?