Recommendations for prop re-hubbing

[mrlassi1]

My 1976 OMC Stringer 190 performs well with a Michigan 12.5 x 18 prop. (part# 312201). I have two of them. The hub started slipping on one of them and I installed my spare. The almost 90 degree tilt of these lower units sure makes a prop swap painless. My local prop shop said they could no longer get the hub assembly for these props. Can you recommend a shop that may have these hubs? Thanks in advance.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... Lets try this in the Prop forum, insteada the OMC forum,....

 

[alldodge]

My 1976 OMC Stringer 190 performs well with a Michigan 12.5 x 18 prop. (part# 312201). I have two of them. The hub started slipping on one of them and I installed my spare. The almost 90 degree tilt of these lower units sure makes a prop swap painless. My local prop shop said they could no longer get the hub assembly for these props. Can you recommend a shop that may have these hubs? Thanks in advance.

No expert with OMC but from the thread below, it indicates the merc will not work for the OMC but the OMC will work for the Merc. That being said I googled "OMC I/O Prop hub" and it came back with a few leads.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/gene...rences-between-omc-mercury-outboard-prop-hubs

Here is one
http://www.propfix.com/store/home.php?cat=251

 

[Frank Acampora]

If HMS HUBS does not carry them, almost no one will. In that case, "pin" the hub to the prop. Granted, the naysayers will now declare that you will destroy your lower unit if you hit something but I pin them all the time. Remember: There are a lot of direct drive ski boats with solid hub props keyed to the prop shaft. You don't hear too much about them destroying parts.

 

[Howard Sterndrive]

Any Evinrude dealer can get OMC electric shift prop hubs. However, I would just get a new prop from Propco. A new prop probably cheaper than the hub and labour to fix your old one.

 

[mrlassi1]

Thank you for the replies.

Bondo, I figured the pin drive configuration was unique to the OMC stringer but appreciate the redirect.

Alldodge, I'll check out those links. Frank Acampora, is the "pinning" technique you mentioned described anywhere in iBoats or can you tell me more about how you do it?

Howard Sterndrive, funny you mention Propco. I live in Monroe, GA where they are located. Peter Dean is a hoot. When I restored my rig in 2010 I bought a new prop from him and had one re-hubbed. His hub leaves a bbig gap on the gearcase side and barely exposes the drive pin holes. His advice was to use a bolt in the prop shaft hole to pull the hub further toward the back. I ran the Propco prop until it lost part of a blade. I replaced it with the Michigan prop mentioned in my post. I'll use Propco if I can't find the Michigan style hub.

 

[SkiDad]

here is one on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OMC-312-201...rg=20140602152332&rk=1&rkt=10&sd=320752815952

 

[Frank Acampora]

"pinning" involves drilling the center of the prop and the hub then tapping and using three or four set screws to positively locate the hub. Unfortunately, in the forum "Improvement I lost my library of photos. However, If you search my past posts both props and Force, there will be several examples of pinned props. It will be self explanatory.

 

[mrlassi1]

Thank you Frank. I contacted HMS Hubs and got exactly the hub needed. I'm going to check the forum and see if there is information on pressing in a hub.

 

[Frank Acampora]

If you have a press at least two ton capacity but preferably six ton, press out the old hub. Some rubber may remain inside the prop. If so, clean it out. Use a hollow block of metal under the prop to clear the old hub and protect the prop itself. Then, find a correct sized tapered tool. I use an old tapered roller bearing outside ring (cone. Lubricate the new hub with soapy water and press in. Double check--some hubs are not supposed to be pressed in all the way, notably some pin drive prop hubs.