Recoil Starter

[baconbiscut]

I have a 55 johnson and the recoil starter won't recoil all the way. When i pull it left it recoils to the point where there is 6-8 in of line left out. I'm not sure how to fix and any help would be great.

 

[JB]

Re: Recoil Starter

Model number?

 

[baconbiscut]

Re: Recoil Starter

CD-12 5.5 hp 1955 johnson

 

[steelespike]

Re: Recoil Starter

Could be as simple as getting some lube on the center where the pulley rotates.Possibly with a little spray grease.If you pull it over as you observe the pulley you may be able to tell where to lube it.
Not necessarily the correct way to solve the problem but probably the fastest way.

 

[baconbiscut]

Re: Recoil Starter

I already did this. But this is what i suspect to be the problem after i got the motor back from the mechanic for new coils, waterpump ect. It was much eaiser to start and i wasn't ajusted to not have to pull so hard and fast to get it started. anyway i was trying to see how low i could get it to idle before it sputter outand eventually it did so when i started it I pulled to hard and broke the line. I motored back to my dock and took off the recoil and i reatached the stater handle to the line beacause i only tore off three or four inches . and thats when it wouldn't recoil all the way

 

[OBJ]

Re: Recoil Starter

Likely you didn't wind the recoil pulley up when you re-attached the handle. Don't know off the top of my head how many turns to take the recoil pulley before attaching the rope, but, I would get a new rope and maybe find out just how many turns to take it before attaching the handle. A Clymers or Seloc service manual may be the thing. These are usually found at libararies (does that look right?) for various year engines.

May also be that someone that knows, here on the board, will know and be able to help.

 

[stl]

Re: Recoil Starter

It seems like i had a similiar dilema a couple of years ago with my 5.5. I had to tie the handle on a few iches back, and it wouldn't recoil at times. I know all the literature says to replace with the correct amount of rope. Anyway it tuned out to be aloose screw. I can't remember what. It was either the screw that holds the prawl, or another that holds the friction link down I can't remember for sure but one of them solved the problem. Its worth a try. Keep us posted

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Recoil Starter

It seems like i had a similiar dilema a couple of years ago with my 5.5. I had to tie the handle on a few iches back, and it wouldn't recoil at times. I know all the literature says to replace with the correct amount of rope. Anyway it tuned out to be aloose screw. I can't remember what. It was either the screw that holds the prawl, or another that holds the friction link down I can't remember for sure but one of them solved the problem. Its worth a try. Keep us posted

It has ZERO to do with this advise........see next post please

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Recoil Starter

I already did this. But this is what i suspect to be the problem after i got the motor back from the mechanic for new coils, waterpump ect. It was much eaiser to start and i wasn't ajusted to not have to pull so hard and fast to get it started. anyway i was trying to see how low i could get it to idle before it sputter outand eventually it did so when i started it I pulled to hard and broke the line. I motored back to my dock and took off the recoil and i reatached the stater handle to the line beacause i only tore off three or four inches . and thats when it wouldn't recoil all the way

Ya gotta wind it up a few times before you attach the handle.. Take the recoil off. Flip it over. Pull the cord and see which way the recoil turns. Remember that you want to wind the same way to load the spring Take the handle off. Cut any knot off. Let the recoil go slack with no spring pressure. Don't go too far, just no spring pressure. Let the rope go into the housing (you are looking at it upside down now). Turn it against spring pressure and look where the rope end is by looking at where it would exit. Give it 2 full turns, maybe 3, maybe 4, to load the spring and get a pick and pull the rope end out when you see it in the front opening. Run it out the front and pull out a good 3 feet or so. If it goes back in all the way, pull it out a foot and tie a knot in it to hold it out, then attach the handle with the knot for it. Post back any problem. You just want enough pressure to wrap the rope back, plus have enough to yank 3 feet.. 4 inches less not a problem.
I just sold a 1955 5.5 Recoil, and I have never heard of a :"friction link" in 45 years of wrenching

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Recoil Starter

needle nose pliers, or tweezers, will help in getting the end of the rope back thru the opening.

 

[DHPMARINE]

Re: Recoil Starter

Runs about an hour to do,but I recommend tearing it down for a good cleaning.Relubing with just 2 stroke oil seems to work for me.Make sure you have the correct length AND diameter of rope.The pulley should be full of rope.If it then won't rewind,just put another turn or two of tension on the spring.

DHP

 

[stl]

Re: Recoil Starter

Maybe I used the wong terminology, but I was referring to the the spring and link mechanism that engages the prawl. I think I was mistaken. My situation was a little different. I now remember on mine the prawl was not engaging after I retied the rope. Sorry for leading you in the wrong direction.

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Recoil Starter

Maybe I used the wong terminology, but I was referring to the the spring and link mechanism that engages the prawl. I think I was mistaken. My situation was a little different. I now remember on mine the prawl was not engaging after I retied the rope. Sorry for leading you in the wrong direction.

No big deal. And I know what you are talking about. Things have to set just right. And I just put back together a 2 hp Rude Mate recoil in pieces (spring was a ball of spagetti), and if I never see another recoil for a month I'll be happy!