Rebuilding Power Head

[MASTER Brian]

Ok, well I had a thread going about the problems with this engine and it can be found here Evinrude XP150 not accelerating ... I figured a new thread would better suit the phase I'm in now.<br /><br />This is a 1986 Evinrude XP150 and it sets on a 1986 Ranger 373V Bass Masters Classic.<br /><br />I'm not sure if I'm sending the P.H. in to get a rebuilt one or if I'm doing the work myself. As I stated in the previous post, I do have some experience rebuilding 2-strokes, on jetski's but I haven't ever rebuild an outboard P.H. so any pointers will be helpful.<br /><br />Right now I'm trying to get the P.H. off. I have a manual, but it's not always clear. I was told that I could send the motor in fully dressed and they would send it back to me fully dressed, but it appears in order to get it off I have to undress it. Am I wrong??? I was told 12 bolts and unhook the shift linkage. <br /><br />I've been taking pictures and keeping everything organized. Any pointers would be very appreciated. At this point, if I have to strip it down to get it off, I almost feel I might as well do the rebuild myself as well. It looks like the undressing is the hardest part...

 

[sloopy]

Re: Rebuilding Power Head

Heck just tear the whole thing apart, take pictures to know where things go, and get a good manuel. Send in the power head, while it is being worked on clean all your other parts and replace anything that is worn out. When the power-head comes back in, just rebuild the engine and LU (you might as well tear it down to) and put everything back together. If you have all the parts it should only take at the most 2 days to put everything back together, Order a new gasket set and carb rebuild kits to. You will have a new engine when you are done.

 

[MASTER Brian]

Re: Rebuilding Power Head

I was told to replace the water pump while it is torn down, which I plan on doing and I'll probably put a new VRO pump on it as well.<br /><br />What is involved in rebuilding the carbs? The seem to be working great and was told by the previous owner he had them worked on about 2 years ago. I don't think he had it out much sense then.<br /><br />Also, what should be replaced in the LU? I was told it had been redone in the last 1 1/2 years or so.<br /><br />I have a Clymers manual, which looks pretty good, I'll look through it on the carb and LU.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: Rebuilding Power Head

You are going to be getting into some pretty detailed procedures during rebuild. suggest you get a factory service manual. You can get an original one from the original publisher, Ken Cook Company, in Milwaukee. Call them with the model number and they will send you one.

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Rebuilding Power Head

Many rebuilders will take the powerhead in dressed and return it rebuilt and dressed. You do not have to take anything off the powerhead to remove it. Actually it's much easier to underess and redress on the bench.<br /><br />Rebuilding the carbs is a must when rebuilding a motor. The most overlooked part of a rebuild is determining - and fixing - the cause of the problem.

 

[MASTER Brian]

Re: Rebuilding Power Head

Is the manual from Ken Cook Company better than a clymers manual?

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Rebuilding Power Head

Never heard anybody say the OE manual wasn't better than an aftermarket.

 

[GatorMike]

Re: Rebuilding Power Head

I am no expert like some of these guys but I agree with sloopy. I have rebuilt 2 115 johnson powerheads and at least to me getting the damned things off was the hardest part. You can undress one in a half hour and tearing the thing down is a piece of cake. Besides the experience you gain learning exactly how these things work might come in handy someday out on the water. I found iboats after rebuilding my old 89 sea drive and was struggling to get it to run right. With help from these guys I got it running sweet. Then a couple of years back I bought a Wellcraft with a blown engine, Dhadley walked me through finding the reason for the bad cylendar and the rebuild was a breeze. Not bad mouthing mechanics but I had better luck with my 2 rebuilds than several friends who have taken theirs to marine mechanics. I think because I was more careful and replaced parts some mechanics might have reused. I also read every step in the manual and torqued all my bolts to the exact specs. I suspect many marine mechanics rely on feel and experience when torqueing bolts and stuff.

 

[MASTER Brian]

Re: Rebuilding Power Head

Mike, I kind of am thinking the same thing. I've kind of gone back and fourth about rebuilding myself or sending in to get a rebuilt one. I'm currently back in the position, I won't be out much more time and I'd like to know exactly what goes on and why. <br /><br />Dhadley, so the Clymers manual should suffice with the rebuild? I only question, because I beieve I mentioned, I had one, but emdsapmgr <br />said to get an original from the manufacturer.

 

[MASTER Brian]

Re: Rebuilding Power Head

I think I'm about at the point where the P.H. can be unbolted, but I'm a bit confused. Does the lower engine shroud lift up with the P.H. or will it stay in place? The manual says which bolts to undue, and I think I know, but it doesn't show pictures.<br /><br />Also, is there anywhere that offers a parts diagram, where you can order parts?

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Rebuilding Power Head

There is no substitute for an OE manual. I've never seen an aftermarket one that was as good as an OE.

 

[wilde1j]

Re: Rebuilding Power Head

BRP's webwsite has PL's. To remove PH, disconnect fuel, oil, the big red plug, throttle linkage (under carbs), throttle and shift cables and anything else that connects external to the PH. The lower pan can usually remain in place. Then just undo the adapter to PH bolts and lift. (You may want to drop the LU first, since it will need to be off to go back together).

 

[MASTER Brian]

Re: Rebuilding Power Head

Dhadley, I think I mis-understood you at first, I thought you meant I didn't need an OE manual, but you said it was better. I'll see about getting one. The one I have has a lot, but not real specific about any one engine.<br /><br />WildOne, only thing left is the shift linkage, the starter power wires, only because I didn't want to unhook the power trim until now and the PH to adapter bolts. I didn't realize the LU needed to be dropped to install the PH. I'll look into dropping it. Who is BRP? <br /><br />Thanks again for all the pointers and help to this point.<br /><br />WTH, where do I find the Model # on the engine? I have some engine number on the bill of sale I got with the boat, not sure if it's what I need for the OE manual though.

 

[sikpnter]

Re: Rebuilding Power Head

Hey master sorry to hear that cylinder was trashed, I think we all knew it was. Sounds like your on your way to building a new motor. Rebuilding is out of my ballpark but good luck to ya.

 

[MASTER Brian]

Re: Rebuilding Power Head

Originally posted by sikpnter:<br /> Hey master sorry to hear that cylinder was trashed, I think we all knew it was. Sounds like your on your way to building a new motor. Rebuilding is out of my ballpark but good luck to ya.

Thanks, I was being optimistic before, but I know my luck, so it's not suprising. Oh well, I was happy with her performance before, so I'm sure I'll be thrilled when she breaths new life, ...with more power!! I was a bit worried, but the more I tear into it, the more confident I am feeling about the overall project.

 

[wilde1j]

Re: Rebuilding Power Head

BRP=Bombardier Recreational Products (OMC sucessor). They have on-line parts diagrams. Order thru any dealer. Model no. and year is all you need to nail the OEM shop manual.<br /><br />S?N and Model should be on the port side of the engine mtg bracket.

 

[MASTER Brian]

Re: Rebuilding Power Head

Does anyone know the difference between these engines? Mine is the E150STLCD. <br />150 1986 E150STLCD <br />150 1986 E150TLCD <br />150 1986 E150TXCD<br /><br />BTW...I went ahead and ordered the parts catalog and the OE Service Manual from Ken Cook.

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Rebuilding Power Head

An E150S is an XP, 150TL is a 20" motor, and a 150TX is a 25". The T is for power trim.

 

[MASTER Brian]

Re: Rebuilding Power Head

Originally posted by Dhadley:<br /> An E150S is an XP, 150TL is a 20" motor, and a 150TX is a 25". The T is for power trim.

Thanks. That does beg the question, how many inches is the XP and what is the difference from the rest, or what does a 20" motor differ from a 25" motor? I'm guessing it has something to do with length of shaft or something.

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Rebuilding Power Head

All the V6 flatback crossflow OMC's are 149 cid or 2.5 liters. All will interchange. The XP / GT's have different heads and carb's than the standard 150's. Some 150 XP / GT's had port timing very close to a 200. Obviously the styling was different too. Louvers in the hood etc. <br /><br />Yes, the 20 & 25 refer to the length of the midsection. All XP / GT's are 20" but the powerheads will all interchange. No difference.