Rebuilding my outboard, anti-seize?

[jrs_diesel]

As I rebuild my engine, just wondering about using anti-seize.

I had quite a few bolts stuck/seized during teardown, and I do not want to have that happen again, should I ever have to tear down the motor again.

I have always preferred to use anti-seize on fasteners. This is my first engine rebuild, and I am not sure about this, and I want to get it right the first time.

 

[SparkieBoat]

Re: Rebuilding my outboard, anti-seize?

if you have a manual it should tell you what bolts to use anti seize on,,I think that on some bolts should it should not be used.

 

[jrs_diesel]

Re: Rebuilding my outboard, anti-seize?

I have the service manual, and it doesn't specify any for the bolts.

 

[Chris1956]

Re: Rebuilding my outboard, anti-seize?

The only bolts that might benefit from antisieze are ones that are exposed to the water. These include cylinder head and water jacket covers, as well as some cowling fasteners. Crankcase bolts, carb bolts etc, will not usually corrode.

We used permatex #2 on bolts suceptable to corrosion, before antisieze was invented. it worked pretty good, but after a while there was buildup. The Permatex aviation gasket maker might be a better choice, since it is thinner

 

[jrs_diesel]

Re: Rebuilding my outboard, anti-seize?

Thank you Chris.

Since this motor will be run in salt water (or any water depending on where I am stationed), I wanted to ensure that I will not have problems with stuck bolts. Or the frustration that comes with them.

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: Rebuilding my outboard, anti-seize?

I would replace all bolts with stainless, this way the bolts won't rust.

 

[wilde1j]

Re: Rebuilding my outboard, anti-seize?

Most already are SS and anything below the water line will seize in saltwater service regardless if not correctly protected.

 

[jrs_diesel]

Re: Rebuilding my outboard, anti-seize?

Sorry, I should have elaborated a little more. It will see salt water with good care (flushing, cleaning, washing the outside, etc).

I had at least 11 bolts (1 in cylinder head, 5 in the exhaust cover, 4 on lower unit leg extension, shift handle, 2 on water pump housing), all of which were stainless, seized.

I want to put it all back together and be able to service it later, if need be. Which is why I am curious about using anti sieze. I have a big bottle of the stuff (permatex) that I use for a variety of other things. Permatex description:

A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing and to assure easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60?F to 1600?F (-51?Cto 871?C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant ? ideal for marine use. Non-aerosol version meets Mil Spec #907E. Aerosol - Level 3*

http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...ubricants/Permatex_Anti-Seize_Lubricant_a.htm

Now I know copper based anti fouling paints doesn't get along well with aluminum. I don't know about it as a component of anti-seize, though it does say ideal for marine use.

 

[batzane]

Re: Rebuilding my outboard, anti-seize?

I had the same problem,and used automotive gasket sealer/maker.In service manual of my johnson15hp is recommended OMC gasket sealing compound for bolts on the gearbox.

 

[Chris1956]

Re: Rebuilding my outboard, anti-seize?

Zephr, Some of the bolts used in motors are grade 5 or stronger. Stainless Steel is not as strong as Grade 5, so you need to be careful where you use it. For replacing grade 2 steel bolts, Stainless does make sense, although it will seize in aluminum, if not protected with permatex or some antisieze compound.

 

[batzane]

Re: Rebuilding my outboard, anti-seize?

also,you must use torque wrench !!!

 

[wilde1j]

Re: Rebuilding my outboard, anti-seize?

Gasket sealer (the stuff with a brush on the cap) or non hardening Permatex (No 2A or 2B ... can't remember which ... one is hardening, the other is not) in a tube is the stuff you want. Never use any copper based compounds on outboards.

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: Rebuilding my outboard, anti-seize?

Zephr, Some of the bolts used in motors are grade 5 or stronger. Stainless Steel is not as strong as Grade 5, so you need to be careful where you use it. For replacing grade 2 steel bolts, Stainless does make sense, although it will seize in aluminum, if not protected with permatex or some antisieze compound.

Well, I've worked around enough metal over the last 22 years and know stainless is plenty hard and trust me, it should be plenty strong enough to withstand the torque settings at least 2 or 3 times over. After all, it is far stronger than the aluminum threads it's going into. Grade 5 steel bolts will rust, stainless won't.

If you want extra protection, then apply some acu-pucky to those threads.

 

[Goneflyin]

Re: Rebuilding my outboard, anti-seize?

I'm in upstate ny (lottsa salt) and I've tried anti-sieze compound on suspension and other exposed parts and it doesn't last a season. Took a force motor apart and exposed bolts had rtv on the threads, permatex (#3) is ugly stuff but it's a pretty good sealant.

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: Rebuilding my outboard, anti-seize?

One other thing to do, is mount a zinc on the anti-cavitation plate. These seem to work pretty well for keeping the corrosion down.

 

[jrs_diesel]

Re: Rebuilding my outboard, anti-seize?

Gasket sealer (the stuff with a brush on the cap) or non hardening Permatex (No 2A or 2B ... can't remember which ... one is hardening, the other is not) in a tube is the stuff you want. Never use any copper based compounds on outboards.

Thank you for the reccomendation. Permatex #2 it is.

One other thing to do, is mount a zinc on the anti-cavitation plate. These seem to work pretty well for keeping the corrosion down.

Great idea! I will do that as well. Thanks Zephyr

 

[SparkieBoat]

Re: Rebuilding my outboard, anti-seize?

yes to keeping good zincs on your motor, most of the reason for the corrosion is actually from a reaction caused by using different types of metals. The SS bolts have a reaction to the cast aluminum and steel.