Rebuild Johnson 1990 90 hp

funpilot

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 15, 2004
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358
At the end of last season the boys complained that the boat had lost power. I checked it out and found number one piston was way down on compression, and water was leaking badly from the exhaust covers in the lower starboard side of the engine.<br /><br />Teardown revealed that the top ring on number one was 'gone' the bottom ring is stuck, the cylinder is scored, and the piston chewed up. I probably only found about 10% of the ring. I think the cylinder and ports will clean up, I'm guessing .030 o.s., but I'll wait to order parts until the machining is done. The bottom ring on number three is stuck with carbon. The gasket between the exhaust plates had migrated and was torn at the location of the large 1/2 inch diameter passage at the bottom where the pick off nozzle is. The thermostats check out opening at approx. 145 F. The bearings and all rotating parts are shiny and clean. I put cast carb float bowls on the motor about six years ago after the plastic ones warped.<br /><br />In past years we ran with a 19 pitch prop, and in the last few went to a 17 pitch to get more hole shot. I decarbon the engine and fog it every year, so I'm not sure why the carbon had built up on the rings. The boat hasn't had as much of the hard use the past three years that it had when my boys lived at home and used it everyday.<br /><br />1) Any suggestions as to a good carbon remover while the engine is apart?<br /><br />2) Can I rebuild with the old bearings, since they look so darn good and spin nicely?<br /><br />3) Does the crankshaft seal kit come with the large o-rings?<br /><br />4) What is the favorite for assembly lube, gasket compound and Assembly Seal (between the crankcase and the block)? How should they be applied?<br /><br />5) Do I have to get the 'blue' cylinder head gasket residue off the cylinder heads and block?<br /><br />6) Can I go with new standard rings in the three good pistons, and oversize piston and rings in the cylinder which needs to be bored out?<br /><br />thanks,<br />fp
 

emdsapmgr

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Dec 9, 2005
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11,551
Re: Rebuild Johnson 1990 90 hp

1. Carb cleaner or OMC Engine tuner are great for getting carbon cleaned up.<br />2. Many reuse the bearings. We always replace them at the shop when doing a customer rebuild.<br />3. You will need a powerhead gasket kit for the rebuild. It will come with all gaskets you need.<br />4. Not sure that this blue stuff is. Not the right sealer for this application. <br />5. The crankcase sealer is called GEL SEAL. You can get it from any Bombardier dealer. Apply between the two halves of the crankcase on the main block half.<br />6. You need to check the other three bores and pistons. If there is little taper and they are round, you can hone and re-ring. Expect decreased service life from them. <br /> You need to get a service manual specific to the engine. <br /> A rebuild may be for naught if you don't find the reason for the failure. Did the engine overheat-bad impeller? Did the engine run without oil? Is there any water in the fuel tank? Using Bombardier XD50 oil helps keep carbon buildup down.
 

Dhadley

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Feb 4, 2001
Messages
16,978
Re: Rebuild Johnson 1990 90 hp

What you're seeing is a classic case of coking. Coking is a black sticky carbon that forms on the rings and causes them to stick in the ring groove. As more and more of the ring sticks in the groove the piston loses support and will rock sideways. The ring will stick on the back side away from the end gap. This exposes the gap end and eventually the ring will break. On a crossflow like yours it usually starts on the starboard side first because the starboard side on a crossflow is slightly hotter.<br /><br />Excess combustion temps promote coking. Several things can contribute to excess combustion temps like wrong spark plugs (use Champions only in that motor), wrong octane, old fuel and lugging the motor.<br /><br />As for the pistons, once you measure the cylinders we'd bet you're going to find the "good" cylinders out of round enough that if you try to hone them they'll be completely out of spec. Besides if you figure out what little you'll save by just replacing the rings you'll see it's much more effective to replace all the pistons and have the full life in the motor again.<br /><br />Damaged pistons are a result -- not the cause. Find and fix the cause or you're likely to go thru this again. We'd bet the main cause is lugging.<br /><br />The blue head gaskets are a brand. Very good ones too. In the normal cleaning process you'll get rid of the color on the block and heads.
 

funpilot

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 15, 2004
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358
Re: Rebuild Johnson 1990 90 hp

Hi emdsapmgr,<br /><br />Thanks for the insight. I'm glad to hear that others have sucessfully reused the bearings. If I were doing a customer engine (i.e. guaranteeing my work) I would insist on new bearings too. I'll think about that a bit. I'll check my tapers and see if I need new pistons after the machinist is done.<br /><br />The heads had never been off the engine, the blue residue is the color of the head gaskets. I don't think the blue residue is a sealer. I always thought head gaskets went on dry.<br /><br />Do you put Gel Seal on both halves very thinly? I read about the cure time, I don't have a problem waiting 12 hours. How much is too much? Do you put gasket compound on every paper gasket, or put them in dry?<br /><br />I have a clymer manual... it doesn't even tell you to take off the intake manifold to get at all the crankcase bolts. Otherwise it seems OK. More information would be nice.<br /><br />The water pump impeller was new the last season or so, it seems to be working fine, the gasket failure caught me off guard on the exhaust plates, I just didn't see it until I ran the motor on muffs to see what the boys were saying. The plugs are that textbook tan color that you always hear about but never see. The engine never ran without oil, I used to use the carbon guard type oil from OMC, but I stopped. I think I'll start using it again (or its bombardier replacement). I honestly think that one bank got warmer than the other due to the leak, and the carbon stuck a ring and it failed. Since the other piston on that side also had a sticky ring, I think I need to minimize my carbon in the future. Perhaps it is a classic case of not doing as much maintenance in the 15th year as I did in previous years.<br /><br />Thank you<br />fp
 

funpilot

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Re: Rebuild Johnson 1990 90 hp

Thank you Dhadley,<br /><br />You must have posted while I was posting above. I think you have nailed it. I got sloppy in my use of quality oil, switched props and eventually I spent too much time on my other boat, and not enough on this one. For spark plugs I've been using QL82C. I understood the original plug was no longer recommended. I've also been using regular fuel instead of premium as of late (87 vs. 92). I probably should have continued to use the high quality oil and gas as I always had when the boat got a lot of use.<br /><br />Thanks!<br />fp
 

red boat

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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May 4, 2005
Messages
141
Re: Rebuild Johnson 1990 90 hp

funpilot, 92 octane is not needed on your outboard. And I think your plugs should be Champion QL77VJC4. Maybe someone with more experience will chime in to verify
 

funpilot

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Re: Rebuild Johnson 1990 90 hp

Thanks Red Boat,<br /><br />I switched plugs because I saw a factory note about eight years ago, I looked online and found the following (but it is the internet...)<br />88, 90, 100, 110, 112, 115, 1979 - 1998, QL77JC4 or QL82C, .030 gap<br /><br />The 92 octane recommendation was in my owner's manual, I thought, or else a recomendation from the dealer. I'll check. I'm sure someone will chime in.<br /><br />I measured the taper on my pistions. They are OK, but tending towards marginal at .004 difference.<br /><br />I stopped at my 'dealer' today. They only install rebuilt powerheads, haven't torn down an engine in years. No Gel Seal available, no recomendations on gasket cement. Sheesh. I've done automotive engines and a Mercury Sport Jet (Force!!!), but this is a bit different, and I appreciate very much the advice. I'm very impressed with the way this engine has held together for 15 years, and even more impressed by the internal construction. This should be fun!<br /><br />warmly,<br />fp
 

Dhadley

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Feb 4, 2001
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16,978
Re: Rebuild Johnson 1990 90 hp

The QL82C is OK but I prefer the slightly cooler QL77JC4's in my crossflow. Your motor was designed to run 87 octane. I'd stick to that -- especially with todays fuel.
 

funpilot

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May 15, 2004
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Re: Rebuild Johnson 1990 90 hp

Dropped the block off today at the machinist, we are going with four new pistons, which will come from them once the block is machined (he desired to make some money on parts, and I agreed).<br /><br />I'll pick up the cooler plugs, and I bought XD50 oil. I'll put it in both my boats. I'll really be happy buying regular gas!<br /><br />Everything else is going to be ordered through iboats!<br /><br />Thanks for the help and advice... I'm sure I'll be continuing this thread in a few days!<br /><br />warmly,<br />fp
 

emdsapmgr

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11,551
Re: Rebuild Johnson 1990 90 hp

You can order the crancase gel seal from any Bombardier dealer. You need part number 324073. You will probably need just one tube for the V4. While there, why not get a can of gasket sealer, P/n 508235. Suggest you get an original manual for your rebuild. You can get one mailed to you from Milwaukee. Call The Ken Cook company there with your model number.
 

funpilot

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Re: Rebuild Johnson 1990 90 hp

Thanks for those numbers and the manual suggestion emdsapmgr! I'll get going on that stuff right away.<br /><br />fp
 

funpilot

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Re: Rebuild Johnson 1990 90 hp

This was interesting, when I removed the cylinder head covers the area above the gasket was chalk full of some kind of deposit, almost calcium like. I'm thinking something either leached through the gasket material, or something leached out of the aluminum. The material was like a paste, and dried very quickly once exposed to air. I cleaned it all out, and then took care of why I removed the covers, to clean the water passages in the head.<br /><br />Anyone know what that stuff is?<br /><br />fp
 

funpilot

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May 15, 2004
Messages
358
Re: Rebuild Johnson 1990 90 hp

The block required .020 over on one and two; three and four honed out to standard. I took emdsapmgr's advice and got the small tube of gel seal, and the proper gasket sealer. I'm coping with the Clymer manual, although if I was going to make a career out of these engines, I would order the factory ones.<br /><br />My machinist wanted to make a little money on the pistons, so I had him order me Wisecos, I got the crank in correctly, locating the center bearing. Everything has gone together like a snap, and feels very smooth when I turn it by hand.<br /><br />Yesterday, I was about to install the exhaust covers when I realized that my iboats gasket kit had three intake manifold gaskets and no exhaust cover gaskets. ACKKKK!<br /><br />Shelley at iboats in customer service overnighted a new gasket kit. With the holiday weekend and everything, I really wanted to use some down time to set up the engine. So tonight, I can go home and finish building the engine, and then progress to installing the carbs, linkages, and check the fuel system and VRO out. It will be fun...<br /><br />If you haven't ever dealt with iboats on a parts order, you can't imagine how far backwards they will bend to keep someone happy and working towards a finished engine.<br /><br />fp
 

funpilot

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 15, 2004
Messages
358
Re: Rebuild Johnson 1990 90 hp

Hi Walker, when I looked at the gel seal on iboats it only seemed to come in the very large size, enough for about five motors.<br /><br />The motor went on the adapter plate nicely (with my wife's help lining things up) and I got everything connected and set. I forgot to 'pre-pump' my VRO oil line, so I got the no oil flow alarm for a bit on the muffs, but I'm running 50:1 on the first tank.<br /><br />The link & synch confused me a bit, and that's when I realized that my carbs synched, but I have the timing slightly goofed up. The motor seemed a tad sluggish after the hour of breaking in at half throttle or so (per my original owner's manual) I found I only had about 4800 max RPM. Back home, following Joe Reeve's method of adjusting the WOT timing resulted in 5100 RPM at about 36 mph for short bursts. I'm going to reconfirm my WOT setting, and try again.<br /><br />I also want to remove the head I smoothed out the damage in (#1) and check to see if it is staying clean. I'll also retorque the heads. Is there any advantage to retorquing? I'm seeing 110#, 115#, 110#, 110# on my compression gauge.<br /><br />If I don't see an improvement in RPM, I'm planning on trying the old prop which came on the boat. On the plus side, I finally built a nice spark tester so I don't stress my coils cranking with the spark plugs out.<br /><br />fp
 
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