Reattaching an oil pump (and reservoir) too a 2004 Yamaha 50hp 3cyl 2 stroke?

[SpearTub]

Somebody removed it, opposite problem I had with the 85.

Somebody either got worried it would fail or they just prefered premix.

I am sure these engines know when to run the engine leaner ie trolling speeds. So imo the oil pump should be attached. And personally I hate premix.

So is it just a case of bolting it back on, attaching the 3 little hoses and the main hose to the oil reservoir.

Interestingly Ive seen many boats now with like 4 litre tanks of oil at the back of the boat. I presume some how they just run the oil from there straight to the oil pump, or does it some how get sucked into the reservoir?

Anyway, main question is,how to reattach an oil pump and should I expect there to be any issues once the engine is running oil as it deems fit vs the premix that may have fouled the plugs or anything?

 

[SpearTub]

Here is all I have, where is the oil pump meant to be, does anyone have an exploded diagram and any advice of what parts I need? What I can is its missing the pump entirely and the rods that connect each part. Have the rigged this so it bypasses a pump entirely?
Engine
Oil reservoir.

 

[SpearTub]

PLEASE HELP. Ive worked on oil pumps but never had to completely put a whole system back in. I dont know what parts and where they need to go like the link rods. What an idiot thing to do to an engine, why not just buy the premix model. Ive heard some horror things about running premix through and engine designed for oil injection, well beyond just fouling plus.

This is the engine, and these are the only parts I have, the flappn oil sump.
I went to edit my posts but it said I was outside 60mins, apologies. I need help. I need diagrams, parts. ugggh.

 

[racerone]

Motor will run just fine on 50:1 mix.----Plugs , on a motor in good condition do not foul with a 50:1 mix ratio.------But oil / lubrication on 2 strokes is not well understood in my opinion.----Model # of your motor ?

 

[SpearTub]

Motor will run just fine on 50:1 mix.----Plugs , on a motor in good condition do not foul with a 50:1 mix ratio.------But oil / lubrication on 2 strokes is not well understood in my opinion.----Model # of your motor ?

Thanks Race, its a 50TLRC.

Honestly I would prefer not to use premix, I had plans to use a large under floor tank. I also think the engine knows how much oil it needs and when via those arm links etc.

My concern is mostly as I use slow troll speeds for gamefish etc, which Ive never had a problem with a yamaha 3cyl model before.

If you know, or anybody knows where I could get a page out of the manual that shows how to put the oil pack back together, Ive found a few companies online who sell the entire system, although the oil reservoir bottle has a couple of the items on it already. Looking at that photo they have just linked everything direct. Why they didnt just buy the premix model is beyond me.

 

[boscoe99]

Do you not have the applicable Yamaha service manual? It would be worth its weight in gold.

 

[racerone]

In 2004 they did not offer the 50 HP as a ---" mix your own " set up.

 

[boscoe99]

Motor will run just fine on 50:1 mix.----Plugs , on a motor in good condition do not foul with a 50:1 mix ratio.------But oil / lubrication on 2 strokes is not well understood in my opinion.----Model # of your motor ?

What is meant by this statement?

 

[racerone]

There are numerous posting on oil / ratios / fouling of plugs.------Postings where they say it is bad to run a multi carburetor engine out of fuel .---Say that some cylinders will be running with no oil during that procedure.-----That simply leads me to say that many folks do not understand the concept of a 2 stroke and what happens to the oil.

 

[99yam40]

There are numerous posting on oil / ratios / fouling of plugs.------Postings where they say it is bad to run a multi carburetor engine out of fuel .---Say that some cylinders will be running with no oil during that procedure.-----That simply leads me to say that many folks do not understand the concept of a 2 stroke and what happens to the oil.

Interesting subject.
the way I look at it some of the carb fuel bowls will run out of fuel before the others due to gravity allowing fuel in lines to head down and not up.( bottom one will usually have fuel while top runs out on the 3 cylinder motors I have played with).
And you can hear the cylinders drop out.
on premixed fuel, if no fuel is running thru then no oil is either

 

[racerone]

But , but ----When the motor is running the parts will be covered / coated with oil.-----That is the only way parts can be protected from wear.------So when the carburetor runs out of fuel only DRY air goes through that cylinder.-----The cylinder produces no heat / no power.-----My point is that the oil that was on the parts just does not disappear in 5 seconds !!!

 

[SpearTub]

In 2004 they did not offer the 50 HP as a ---" mix your own " set up.

No, but there were other premix options available and used ones. Regardless imo its devaluing the engine by converting it to premix and potentially causing major problems when people use different premix ratios. More so when you do not even keep the pump and its parts.
Anyway, after sending all the info and pics to a yammy marine tech, he said its been rebuilt, the top end colour doesnt match. So Im thinking somebody ran out of oil, then continued to run the engine as per normal while the alarm is going and has bent a piston, blown gaskets etc. So instead of fixing the problem by either carrying a bottle of oil on board, or easier by having a 4 litre reservoir inside the boat like most normal people do, they asked them to to remove the oil pump etc and have all fuel lines direct and putting the centre piece from the pump into its hole/slot (otherwise fuel would leak everywhere). So I pulled out.
This guy had been running it 20:1 which absurdly rich if you are running low revs. Even 50:1 is. Thats the whole point of the precision blend technology, it applies exactly the right mix per revs required. Sure you might get away with 50:1 for 200 hours, but eventually its going to cost you more than simply servicing the oil pump.

Thats the problem with all these diy mechanics, they think a service is an impellor and spark plus and at worst some gear oil and you are done. With no service manual to read intervals either. Not looking at and servicing small components like the oil pump rod links, which are known to get brittle and will snap, leaving no oil getting to the engine, yet as easy as that is to fix while out on the water temporarily (I can think of 4 ways off the top of my head), they will pay for the coastguard and then still not know what the problem is and end up paying more for a real mechanic.

IMO if you cannot strip an engine and read a service manual, you shouldnt be claiming to be able to service an engine. I have no issue with people who do annual services and then pay for major services. Im refering to people who just to a minor service year after year and wait for something catastrophic to occur like a small component they have no idea exists or what it does.

Anyway, thanks for the tips all, I learnt something out of it, how to spot an engine rebuild. It must have happened within 100 hours. I do not know the cause but would be safe to say it was oil related given they went to this much extent to remove the oil pump.

If you own an underfloor ssteel petrol tank, even if you could run premix safely in what is an engine designed not to be,, you still have the problem of having to guess wha is ine tank, of course you could just assume that for every litre of fuel you need xyz premix oil, but why bother when the engine was designed to do the thinking for you and to save your engine from premix related engine failure.