Ran into a reef & 10 hour service

[kaneohehawaii]

Ran into a reef with a brand new 2021 Yamaha 200HP outboard, 0.8 hours.......yeah, I know.

I tried to bend the skeg back but it will not budge. Thought I would be able to do it with channel locks. It doesn't seem to affect steering.

I have sanded and primed/painted the affected areas but it didn't turn out great since I did it in the water. Waves kept lapping against wet paint.

I am not at 10 hours and deciding what I should do:
1. Bite the bullet, find a trailer somewhere and take it to the dealer & have them fix it & do the service. I did not purchase the trailer with the boat.
2. Have someone come to the club and do the service (not sure how warranty is affected), and sand and paint myself.
3. Something else.

If you had to pay for it, what would you do?

 

[Stinnett21]

What happens at 10 hours? Is it due for service then? With no trailer how were you going to get the service done? If it's not having a negative affect just wait till the 10 hours and get it fixed then. It will have to be cut off and new one fashioned and re-welded. Prop shops are the place to look for that kind of fix. The lower unit may have to be dropped because the shop may not be able to accommodate the entire boat.

 

[Texasmark]

I have also seen a metal cap attached with a couple of screws....looks to be SS. I suppose you cut off, or something removed, the lower part of the skeg and you just bolt it to the stub.

The LU is an "investment" aluminum casting and is strong yet brittle. It has already moved in one direction and usually they will allow you to do that to some extent. Attempting to move it back could cause it to fracture and break off...common problem with castings. Not an expert, just had a few run-ins with alum cast material over the years.

Attesting to the peculiarity of alum. vs steel, steel will allow bending back and forth numerous times and takes it's time in "work hardening" (making it brittle at the joint) and separating. Aluminum on the other hand can work harden and separate on the 2nd or 3rd bend, especially cast aluminum. In welding steel, the sacrificial element melts and flows into the joint nice and smooth. Aluminum welds are blobs you jab into the joint or something of the sort....my limited experience in trying to work with aluminum.

 

[dingbat]

I would get it fixed sooner than later. The cavitation it causes with start “burning” up the prop in short order

I guea bare minimum the lower unit needs to be removed to work on.

Not going to get into the details of the repair, but it’s a pretty easy fix for someone well versed in metal fabrication procedures.

No cutting, no welding required

 

[ahicks]

Faced with the potential of having it cut off and getting it welded (nothing to loose), I would use a hammer backed with a heavy bucking block (4-5 lbs at least). Used gently, I've straightened a couple of those, and broken one.

Basically, about the same as straightening a lightly bent prop, only using a bigger hammer and bucking block.

Keep in mind, working alum. makes it harder and more likely to break.

 

[southkogs]

Personally, I would double check with the dealer on what will void a warranty on your motor before I did anything. Then, because of how new the motor is my thought would be to somehow have the skeg repaired properly from a shop. If necessary I'd remove the lower and take it somewhere for the work to be done.

Not sure I'd risk hammering it myself.

 

[Captain Caveman]

Cost of doing business. Take it to the dealer and get it done right or you'll be mad at some point that your new motor doesn't work right.

I am assuming that at 10 hours you are supposed to do an oil change to get out the (potential) metal shavings? If that is the case, I would maybe run it for a few hours as-is and then take it to the dealer. Have them do everything at once.

Yes - you can get bolt-on skeg replacements. I believe those are for when you've actually knocked the entire skeg off on a rock/reef. I would see if the original casting can be saved first before mutilating a brand new lower unit.

 

[ahicks]

"Take it to a dealer" makes me laugh. Assuming they have anyone on staff able to actually repair something like that is a (poor) joke. One in a hundred MIGHT. Kinda like getting a prop repaired on site. Hopefully you'll have insurance to pay for the new lower unit. I believe that's the only way 90%+ would be able to make that repair.

I think taking it to a welder would be a better plan.

 

[kaneohehawaii]

What happens at 10 hours? Is it due for service then? With no trailer how were you going to get the service done? If it's not having a negative affect just wait till the 10 hours and get it fixed then. It will have to be cut off and new one fashioned and re-welded. Prop shops are the place to look for that kind of fix. The lower unit may have to be dropped because the shop may not be able to accommodate the entire boat.

There is a 10 hour maintenance that is supposed to be done. Change the oil, plugs and oil filter. I have read on this forum that if you have a warranty issue Yamaha will want to see the documentation for the maintenance.

Sucks it will need to be welded. I surprised how substantial the skeg is, I put some torque on it and it didn't move.

Thanks for the reply

 

[kaneohehawaii]

I have also seen a metal cap attached with a couple of screws....looks to be SS. I suppose you cut off, or something removed, the lower part of the skeg and you just bolt it to the stub.

The LU is an "investment" aluminum casting and is strong yet brittle. It has already moved in one direction and usually they will allow you to do that to some extent. Attempting to move it back could cause it to fracture and break off...common problem with castings. Not an expert, just had a few run-ins with alum cast material over the years.

Attesting to the peculiarity of alum. vs steel, steel will allow bending back and forth numerous times and takes it's time in "work hardening" (making it brittle at the joint) and separating. Aluminum on the other hand can work harden and separate on the 2nd or 3rd bend, especially cast aluminum. In welding steel, the sacrificial element melts and flows into the joint nice and smooth. Aluminum welds are blobs you jab into the joint or something of the sort....my limited experience in trying to work with aluminum.

Glad I didn't really force it back! Might have sheered it off.

I will look for a replacement skeg the bolts on. If it was cut off, there should be enough material left to through bolt something.

Appriciate the response.

 

[kaneohehawaii]

I would get it fixed sooner than later. The cavitation it causes with start “burning” up the prop in short order

I guea bare minimum the lower unit needs to be removed to work on.

Not going to get into the details of the repair, but it’s a pretty easy fix for someone well versed in metal fabrication procedures.

No cutting, no welding required

Now that you mention it, there is some cavitation on tight turns..sounds like the prop is sucking air.

I will ask around for some metal shops.

Appreciate the response.

 

[kaneohehawaii]

Faced with the potential of having it cut off and getting it welded (nothing to loose), I would use a hammer backed with a heavy bucking block (4-5 lbs at least). Used gently, I've straightened a couple of those, and broken one.

Basically, about the same as straightening a lightly bent prop, only using a bigger hammer and bucking block.

Keep in mind, working alum. makes it harder and more likely to break.

That is a good thought, try to fix it. If it snaps off then go to a machine shop. I have never worked with aluminum or any metal (beside sheet metal) but will do some research.

Appreciate the response.

 

[kaneohehawaii]

Cost of doing business. Take it to the dealer and get it done right or you'll be mad at some point that your new motor doesn't work right.

I am assuming that at 10 hours you are supposed to do an oil change to get out the (potential) metal shavings? If that is the case, I would maybe run it for a few hours as-is and then take it to the dealer. Have them do everything at once.

Yes - you can get bolt-on skeg replacements. I believe those are for when you've actually knocked the entire skeg off on a rock/reef. I would see if the original casting can be saved first before mutilating a brand new lower unit.

After multiple cycles of anger/disbelief/depression of hitting the reef, that is where I ended, cost of doing business.

I will send some pictures to the dealer & get their opinion and quote.

I will be looking for the replacements, will see what they say.

Appreciate the response.

 

[kaneohehawaii]

"Take it to a dealer" makes me laugh. Assuming they have anyone on staff able to actually repair something like that is a (poor) joke. One in a hundred MIGHT. Kinda like getting a prop repaired on site. Hopefully you'll have insurance to pay for the new lower unit. I believe that's the only way 90%+ would be able to make that repair.

I think taking it to a welder would be a better plan.

I do doubt the dealer could do it themselves. the advantage would hopefully be the dealer would help me with Yamaha if there is a warranty issue down the road.

I have boat insurance, have never had to make a claim in the past & this is the first motorboat I have ever owned.

Appreciate the response.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Ran into a reef with a brand new 2021 Yamaha 200HP outboard, 0.8 hours.......

dont do that..... it hurts the reef.

I tried to bend the skeg back but it will not budge. Thought I would be able to do it with channel locks. It doesn't seem to affect steering.

I have sanded and primed/painted the affected areas but it didn't turn out great since I did it in the water. Waves kept lapping against wet paint.

you need a lot more force than a channel locks. if you want it straight, you need a hydraulic press. or leave it.

1. Bite the bullet, find a trailer somewhere and take it to the dealer & have them fix it & do the service. I did not purchase the trailer with the boat.
2. Have someone come to the club and do the service (not sure how warranty is affected), and sand and paint myself.
3. Something else.

If you had to pay for it, what would you do?

I would call the dealer. I would put a dial indicator on the shaft to make sure you didnt bend the shaft. then I would run it.

 

[JimS123]

Its a brand new boat. Shortchanging it cheep would be foolish.

Have the 10 hour service done as you had already planned, and have the dealer replace the lower unit at the same time. Submit the claim to your insurance company and happily pay the deductible. It's a learning experience. You'll be a better captain next time.

If you didn't have insurance, shame on you. Pay the entire bill and suck it up. Then, go buy insurance. The next accident may harm another and then you'll lose the boat and everything else you own.

 

[82rude]

My friend who owns a prop shop and is very skilled fixed my mariner years ago in about 3 seconds.One block of wood and a weighty hammer was all it took,and skill I imagine.I attacked a deadhead.

 

[ahicks]

Skill and guts.....

 

[JimS123]

Pounding an old Mariner is no comparison to a brand spanking new 2021 Yamaha 200 HP.

 

[ahicks]

Pounding an old Mariner is no comparison to a brand spanking new 2021 Yamaha 200 HP.

How is that? No difference from a mechanical standpoint. Any difference is in your head....