Question about Swapping out Shift/throttle controls . . .

[tpenfield]

I'm no expert when it comes to throttle/shifter controls for boats . . . sort of a phobia of mine

My boat currently has these 'standard' Quicksilver controls (which are 24 years old) . . . (twin engine, single lever each)


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They are nothing short of horrible compared to what I was used to with my Formula 242, which had the Kiekhaefer (i.e. Mercury Racing ) dual lever (separate shift & throttle) controls as shown below . . .



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However, with all the digital (DTS) types of controls, I'm not sure on what to get, since my engines (1996 vintage) are the old style cable linkages. . . . presumably mechanical :noidea:

Since I have not tampered with boat controls before, just looking for some expertise and guidance. I assume that I need to get the 'mechanical' style of controls of the performance variety, and that the cables that lead to the existing Quicksilver controls will connect to the new control 'box' in a similar manner according to their engine (port/starboard) and purpose (throttle/shift).

BUT . . . when I am reading some of the spec's on the performance controls (Livorsi, Gaffrig, Mercury Racing, etc) I see things like 'feed forward, 'feed backward', etc. Presumably referring to the direction in which the cables come to meet the control box :noidea:

Not really knowing, I just don't want to buy the wrong thing and end up with a 'mell of a hess' on my hands.

Anybody that can school me on controls? TIA :thumb:

 

[Scott Danforth]

there is also the EMI versions.....

https://www.eddiemarine.com/shop/co...n-controls/elite-competition-control-4-handle

and color match to your new interior

however my suggestion, reach out to the Formula owners group and talk to the folks at Livorsi, CP, EMI, etc.

 

[alldodge]

No expert and probably want to post this on OSO

The DTS controls are drive by wire, so no cables. Could go to them but would need to add solenoids to the motors. I would say stay away from DTS

Many like the separate controls but I like just signals because you only need 2 hands. If more throttle is needed during a given moment you might need 3 hands

 

[tpenfield]

Thanks for the info so far . . . I did check on OSO and found a couple for threads about 'upgrading' controls. Not going to do the digital (DTS) stuff. So going to stay with mechanical controls. The cables are probably Morse 33 or 43 style ??? :noidea:

Just trying to figure out how difficult the swap would be and buying the right thing. I may go with a used Mercury 'Zero Effort', like I had on my old boat. In my research so far . . . it seems like "Zero Effort" is just a trade name, not actually meaning no effort required . . . I was initially thinking some sort of power assist on the control levers :noidea: . . . but it seems not. I need to figure the trim switches as well, which currently are on the lever.

The current trim switches have gotten 'stuck' a couple of times this year and raised the outdrive up to the limit while underway, which is not good with this boat :facepalm: . So, I'd like to fix that by getting a set of controls with better trim switches.

Also trying to figure out a few other gremlins . . .

1) I got the Bravo 'Clutch Glazing' thing going on . . .

and

2) My port engine throttle only goes to 85% (per my MEFI/Diacom) whereas the starboard engine throttle goes to 100%.

So, if I can figure all this control stuff out, maybe I can fix those 2-3 things during the swap-out. Not sure If I can/should do this during the season or wait until the off-season.

Of course with trim switches . . . there is all the wiring. Are they color coded per an industry standard ??? (I hate wiring)

Anyway, still trying to figure this throttle/shift control stuff out, so any info is helpful.

 

[Lou C]

I have a Teleflex (Seastar now) CH-1700 combined control (bought it but have not yet installed it because other boat projects took precedence) they way it works is that you have to watch your original controls to see if the cable pushes or pulls to shift into FWD, and the same for advancing the throttle. The universal controls are made to adapt to any engine style, and come with adapters for your standard cables. Once you know the directions that the cable moves (pushing or pulling) then you can determine which side of the shift or throttle lever your cables get attached to. It may even show this in a chart for Merc, Volvo or OMC...
Question for those who have the 2 lever controls, isn't it possible to shift into gear with the throttle above idle speed? That would seem to be something of a learning curve for someone used to a single lever control....Can't happen with single levers barring an engine malfunction....

 

[alldodge]

The current trim switches have gotten 'stuck' a couple of times this year

Mine did the same thing a couple years ago, so I bought a new switch and cover. Solder the new switch and all good again. Only issue I had was getting the right glue to install new cover

port engine throttle only goes to 85%

I would think this is a worn cable internally or need adjusting, maybe not but just a guess.

Are they color coded per an industry standard ???

This should be a non-issue. All industry colors and standard connectors

 

[tpenfield]

Next time I'm out on the boat (maybe this week?) I'll take a look at the underneath of the control box to see how the cables connect, etc.

I think my " 85% " issue is a cable adjustment, because the throttles at WOT end up hitting part of the instrument panel that is in front of the controls . . . Otherwise, I think I could get a wee bit more travel out of the throttle lever.

 

[kenny nunez]

If there is a throttle lever on your air valve that is bolted on you can remove it and mount the cable to a closer hole to the throttle shaft which gives a shorter throw. I had to do that to the 383 Stroker MPI on my Donzi.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Ted, definitely pull the binnacle cover off your controls. you may find multiple holes to mount the cable in.