Pulling engine, 97, 5.7 carb, on Alpha 1 Gen 2

NHGuy

Captain
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
3,631
I spent the afternoon today getting ready to remove my 350. I have a borrowed gantry that's just barely going to clear my transom.
I'm looking for a little guidance. What could I have missed?
Here's what I removed.
Risers & exhaust tubes
Fuel line & carb
Power steering lines
Cooling water line to power steering cooler
Remote drive oil line
Positive cable
Negative cable & ground wire to transom plate
4 engine mounts
Disconnected batteries

I ran out of energy and quit working in the late afternoon.
Plan to resume in the morning.
 
Last edited:

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,318
control cables, 2 rear motor mount bolts, 4 front lag screws
 

NHGuy

Captain
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
3,631
Oops, yes I did pull the shift plate
Which lags, the front mounts?
 
Last edited:

NHGuy

Captain
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
3,631
Folks always say to remove the whole mount. I have just taken the engine off the front mounts before.
Is it that much easier to remove the entire mounts?
I will do that if you say to!
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,989
Ayuh,.... I always pull the lags,....

A couple pieces of blockin', 'n the motors sits on the floor nicely,.....
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,318
We say pull the lags because in most cases the upper and/or lower nut is rusted solid and you cant do a engine alignment properly /Once removed with the engine you can use a lot of heat to free it up or replace it if necessary.And as Bondo points out the mounts make good bases for the wood supports
 

NHGuy

Captain
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
3,631
i made a cradle a couple of years ago when I had my other motor out. IIt's a rectangle made of 2x8's with a little raised spacer at the back.The engine sits nicely on 4 points that way.
On this engine one of the front mounts was a little sticky, But thankfully the bilge in this Fomula is gigantic. I put a long crescent wrench on there, leaned into it a bit and whacked the wrench a couple of times with a hammer. Instant impact wrench.
I had saved a sawed off and thin ground flat 1 1/8" wrench that I have used in the past for alignments, that worked out well for running the nut off the threads.
 
Last edited:

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
I had to pull my motor again right after I installed it - I pinched the Y-pipe to Gimbal Housing o-ring and it leaked. I left the motor mounts in the boat since I had just the week before used 5200 on the lag bolts and didn't want to see how THAT was gonna work out pulling them back out permanently glued in with 5200.

It is truly twice as much work putting a motor back in with the mounts already in the boat. Doable, but not as much fun. Given a choice, I would always pull with the mounts on the motor, depending on lag bolt condition.

Rick
 

NHGuy

Captain
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
3,631
I'm going to have to do the u joint cross bearings and u joint bellows too. There was water in there when I pulled the drive. But at least the drive oil was good, whew!

What's the skinny on installing the bellows retention sleeve? Use a homemade or store-bought driver? And do you use the power tune on the outside of the bellows just enough to slide it past the flange?
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,989
What's the skinny on installing the bellows retention sleeve?

Ayuh,.... When ya got the bellows set in place, squirt some power tune where the ring goes, 'n push the ring in with yer fingers, hold a few seconds for the P/T to go away, then move on,.....
 

NHGuy

Captain
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
3,631
WelI guess I wasted the money for the driver. I already had it ordered when I saw your response!
I'm bushed. .
I really had to work things to get that engine out. It was too long to come straight up.
Then when I turned it 90 degrees the exhaust manifolds interfered. Then I got the motor raised and there wasn't the clearance I had measured for. I didn't take into account that the trailer would rise a touch with the engine removed
I ended up having to let the air out of my trailer tires and putting a piece of masonite on my sun platform so I could kinda partly slide the engine off the back. If I hadn't done the slip board I'd have had to lower the engine and take off the intake to raise the motor that last inch. Or maybe cribbing to the bottoms of the gantry ends. Either way would have taken tons of time.
Did it though!
I should have just paid a tow truck to pick it out.
 
Last edited:
Top