Pulling drive for winterization?

[ricohman]

I know that some of you fellows pull your drive as part of the winterization process.
My 4.3TKS and Alpha one drive have 17.8 hours and I am doing the 20 hour and winterizing at the same time. The dealer I bought my supplies from suggested not pulling the drive and greasing the splines as I have so few hours and the u-joints are not servicable anyways.
I bought the $23 gasket set as I will need it in the future but he also said they just re-use the original o-rings and gaskets when they do the first 20hr service.
I am going to change the leg oil today and I expect it to be uncontaminated. Maybe I should pull the leg next fall?

 

[muc]

Re: Pulling drive for winterization?

I don’t agree with your dealer. They sound lazy.
Pulling the drive to check the engine alignment can be important nowadays.
Years ago boats were shipped to the dealer with the drive off so alignment was checked and adjusted before you got the boat. In more recent times most boats come with the drive on from the factory so the alignment was done before the hull had a chance to fully cure and hulls sometimes change shape during that time. At least that’s my guess due to working at a dealer that pushed 20hr checks even after the manufacturer started saying they were no longer necessary. I can tell you that 1 in 5 boats would need to be aligned at 20hrs. Is yours one of those?
Couldn’t be that most boat builders have been teetering on the edge of bankruptcy for the last 5 years. So have had to cut as many corners as they can could it?
No it must be that hull curing thing --- ya ya that’s it.

P.S. It’s almost always a good idea to replace o-rings and gaskets whenever you take anything apart.

 

[ricohman]

Re: Pulling drive for winterization?

My boat is an aluminum hull so I don`t think it needs more curing
And you also brought up a good point. And that is one tool I don`t own and maybe I should buy one.

 

[Don S]

Re: Pulling drive for winterization?

With as many things that have been wrong with your "NEW" boat, why would you think the engine was aligned correctly at the factory, or that they put the seals in the bellhousing to keep water out of the bellows?

 

[ricohman]

Re: Pulling drive for winterization?

With as many things that have been wrong with your "NEW" boat, why would you think the engine was aligned correctly at the factory, or that they put the seals in the bellhousing to keep water out of the bellows?

I was kinda hoping this was the one thing they did correctly!
Anyway, without an alignment tool I can't really check that anyway however I can check the o-rings on the driveshaft and the way it was installed. What seals keep water out of the bellows? I thought the bellows itself did that job.

 

[Don S]

Re: Pulling drive for winterization?

You can find alignment bars on ebay for around 40 bux. if you plan on doing your own maintenance, get one.

What seals keep water out of the bellows?

In the file below, go to page 2A-6 in the top picture. Seal A is the one that keeps water out of the bellows, along with the bellows.

View attachment A1G2 RnR.pdf

 

[ricohman]

Re: Pulling drive for winterization?

Thanks for that bit of the service manual. My dealer still does not have a 2011 4.3 manual to sell me.
I guess I also need that special shift slide stabilizing tool.
Time for some ebay shopping.

 

[Don S]

Re: Pulling drive for winterization?

You can download the full drive manual at this link. http://www.4shared.com/office/2V0kM3lL/14__Alpha_I_Gen_II__Drives_91-.html?

You can order your engine manuals directly from Merc http://www.mercurymarine.com/parts-and-accessories/parts-catalog/

I think that link will get you to the manuals as soon as the launch parts catalog button works.

I guess I also need that special shift slide stabilizing tool.

Not needed, a dab of grease holds it in place enough to get the drive on.

 

[ricohman]

Re: Pulling drive for winterization?

You can download the full drive manual at this link. http://www.4shared.com/office/2V0kM3lL/14__Alpha_I_Gen_II__Drives_91-.html?

You can order your engine manuals directly from Merc http://www.mercurymarine.com/parts-and-accessories/parts-catalog/

I think that link will get you to the manuals as soon as the launch parts catalog button works.




Not needed, a dab of grease holds it in place enough to get the drive on.

Thanks for that tip and the link to the service manual. I will just order the alignment tool.
I like to have a real manual in my hands while in the shop so I don't mind buying a manual. Some of my friends like to use their laptops.
Where do you other guys fall in on this?

 

[Don S]

Re: Pulling drive for winterization?

Where do you other guys fall in on this?

What does that have to do with anything? If you like the paper version over the online manuals, then who cares what others think or do?

90% of those manuals you will likely never use. You could just print out the pages you need and put them in a binder for future use and to take along to the boat. At $50 to $100 per manual, it doesn't take long to not need the paper version.

 

[ktbarrentine]

Re: Pulling drive for winterization?

I know that some of you fellows pull your drive as part of the winterization process.
My 4.3TKS and Alpha one drive have 17.8 hours and I am doing the 20 hour and winterizing at the same time. The dealer I bought my supplies from suggested not pulling the drive and greasing the splines as I have so few hours and the u-joints are not servicable anyways.
I bought the $23 gasket set as I will need it in the future but he also said they just re-use the original o-rings and gaskets when they do the first 20hr service.
I am going to change the leg oil today and I expect it to be uncontaminated. Maybe I should pull the leg next fall?

Ouch!! Gasket set (if this the one I think you are referring to, for the outdrive-to-bell housing), as low as 3.95 on Amazon.
Alignment tool is also on Amazon...27 bucks plus 20 shipping.

I much rather have the on-line manual.... easily searchable, and the pages print out very nicely. And I dont have to worry about getting them dirty. Just toss 'em afterwords and print new ones as needed. I also keep my iPad pretty close at hand for ready manual reference if I dont have the page I need. iPad also works great for the neat bluetooth micro-size video camera I now use for getting into tight spaces and for one-man trailer hitching.... just sayin'

 

[ricohman]

Re: Pulling drive for winterization?

What does that have to do with anything? If you like the paper version over the online manuals, then who cares what others think or do?

90% of those manuals you will likely never use. You could just print out the pages you need and put them in a binder for future use and to take along to the boat. At $50 to $100 per manual, it doesn't take long to not need the paper version.

I ask this because I think I am ready to do just like you said. I have dozens of manuals for many vehicles and bikes. I spent over $100 for the factory manuals for my BMW GS and I think I use 10% of that book. Even the servo ABS flushing procedure is now available on line. I think its time I moved into this century and started doing what ktbarrentine said. Print out what I need as I need it.

 

[Don S]

Re: Pulling drive for winterization?

Is this the kit? Part Number 27- 94996T 2 or Q 2?
If so, suggested list price from Mercruiser is $9.00

 

[ricohman]

Re: Pulling drive for winterization?

Part number on my kit is 27-94996Q 2.
I am totally getting screwed on local prices. Gear lube is $21.95 a quart.
I just finished changing the engine oil and water filter and fogged the engine and drained the block. Even with low hours I had to poke the drain on the starboard side of this 4.3 before the water came pouring out.
I had some slight noise of somwthing rubbing when I spun the prop and I thought it may be a piece of fishing line or grit but when I pulled the prop I found nothing but some clumps of dried grease. So I need to clean this up and re grease it. Might as well leave it off until my boys help me remove the drive later this evening. I won't have a tool for at least two weeks so I don't think I will be able to check the alignment this fall. Could always do it next spring if I leave the drive off and I may do that as this boat is heading back to Starcraft for a repaint.

 

[Don S]

Re: Pulling drive for winterization?

I would put the drive back on the boat before you send it for repaint. You don't want the shift cable getting bent, or water in the bellows from rain, or whatever else can get in there.

 

[ricohman]

Re: Pulling drive for winterization?

I would put the drive back on the boat before you send it for repaint. You don't want the shift cable getting bent, or water in the bellows from rain, or whatever else can get in there.

You are right. I will have no control over how they will leave the boat once its unwrapped. I don't want to leave the leg empty though. I am going to refill it and put the prop back on and I can always pull it next spring as I usually have 6-8 weeks of decent outside weather before the ice is off the lakes so there is more time next spring. And I will have my alignment tool by then. Downside is I may have to but more gear lube. Oh well.

 

[Don S]

Re: Pulling drive for winterization?

You don't have to change gear lube just to pull the drive. There is a quick disconnect between the drive and the bellhousing.
Change your drive oil now, put the drive back on (use the old gasket as long as you don't put the boat back in the water) then when you are ready to prep for the water, pull the drive, check the alignment, new gaskets (Glue that big ring in place), grease the coupler splines, and put the drive back on and go boating.

 

[ricohman]

Re: Pulling drive for winterization?

You don't have to change gear lube just to pull the drive. There is a quick disconnect between the drive and the bellhousing.
Change your drive oil now, put the drive back on (use the old gasket as long as you don't put the boat back in the water) then when you are ready to prep for the water, pull the drive, check the alignment, new gaskets (Glue that big ring in place), grease the coupler splines, and put the drive back on and go boating.

OK. Done and done.
What would you recommend for glue? Contact cement?
And now I have all winter to read up on alignment, in case I need to do that.
My prop nut probably only had half the amount of torque it should have had. Is it normal for the nut to loosen this much?

I have another question about fogging. I have never fogged an i/o and I did it by the manual. But during its dying gasps as it ran out of fuel and fogging oil was being used it backed fired through the carb and sputtered to a stop. I didnt like that so I fired it back up again and let it run for 5 seconds or so until it died from lack of fuel.
To me a back fire can mean reverse rotation. Is it possible for a marine engine to injest water from this type of situation?
Perhaps I should pull the plugs tomorrow and give each cylinder a good squirt of fogging oil. The carb is empty now but I can soon pull the coil wire to make sure it won't fire. Or I could leave it be.

 

[Utahboatnut]

Re: Pulling drive for winterization?

when they diesel they are prone to water injestion, im not sure about a onetime backfire while fogging. Pulling the plugs and doing the "manual"fog is never a bad thing if you dont mind spending the extra few minutes, good time to inspect plugs as well. I remove my prop everytime i get back from the lake 1-8 days on the lake and tons of water sports and have NEVER had it any looser than when i installed it prior to heading out. People call me nuts for removing every time but a $550.00 hi five is not what i want to replace right now. If it sat for some time prior to you owning i would replace the waterpump next spring they are cheap insurance and if you have the drive off, have a manual, and are replacing gear lube anyways just do the waterpump.

 

[ktbarrentine]

Re: Pulling drive for winterization?

OK. Done and done.
What would you recommend for glue? Contact cement?
And now I have all winter to read up on alignment, in case I need to do that.
My prop nut probably only had half the amount of torque it should have had. Is it normal for the nut to loosen this much?

I glue my O/D nose gasket ring into the bell housing with bellows adhesive. Weatherstrip adhesive would probably work, too.. Just want to make sure the gasket ring does not get knocked out of position while installing the drive.
Your prop nut should be torqued to spec when you install it, and then tightened just enough more to line up three tabs of your tabbed lockwasher, then bend the tabs into place on the castle-washer, and it should not come loose at all...