Problem with Escort trailer

Joined
Nov 4, 2008
Messages
3
My 1986 Bayliner Capri I/O sits on the trailer with approximately 4" of the transom extening out past the end of the bunks.

Also the tongue weight is too light, but I'm going to measure it tonight.

I want to move the bow of the boat forward on the trailer to solve both problems. I can drill new holes where necessary, however I wonder is there any problem with doing this?

Attached is a picture of the front of the trailer.
Escort Trailer.jpg
 

External Combustion

Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 21, 2007
Messages
608
Re: Problem with Escort trailer

From what I can see on in the photo you would run into problems by drilling new holes in the tongue piece as it is too short (it would place far greater stress on it with the holes closer together) and it is galvanized (making it more prone to rust). You could extend your bunkers by the four inches and move the axle back (if you can) and accomplish the same thing.
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: Problem with Escort trailer

It's difficult to tell from the photo but it looks like the bow stop/winch support is a U shaped bent piece. If that is the case, it would also be possible to unbolt it at the rear bolt and loosen the front two bolts. Tilt it up and drill two new holes a little higher than the original, then tilt it down and rebolt in the new holes. You would want to drop the roller about 2 inches which due to the curve of the hull would let it come forward about 4 inches more. You do the geometry to see where to drill.

Only downside I can see is that the tongue is so short, the point of the hull would be getting mighty close to the rear of the tow vehicle. It really looks like the trailer is too small for the boat.

Also, due to the curve of the hull, only the rear straps are holding it from sliding forward over the bow stop roller during a hard stop. I would attach at least one restraint from at least three feet further back on the trailer, running forward to the bow eye as a safety.
 

reelfishin

Captain
Joined
Mar 19, 2007
Messages
3,050
Re: Problem with Escort trailer

I just retro fitted the same type of trailer. The easiest way to fix a bad set up like that is to get a new trailer tongue, one that's long enough for the boat you need to haul and to install a conventional bolt on bow stop. I added 28" in the one I had here, put on a normal bow stop and all was fine. (I also added new urethane roller bunks in place of the original wood bunks).
Most of the Escort trailers were low end, bare bones, bare minimum trailers to fit a particular model of Bayliner. They offer very little in adjustability.
I was lucky in that I already had a good used section of tongue in the right diameter to match and a good used bow stop, so the mods I made were all but free.
You may be able to just get by with just adding a new bow stop if the existing tongue is long enough, it just might buy you enough room?
 
Joined
Nov 4, 2008
Messages
3
Re: Problem with Escort trailer

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I think I'll try a combination of the above using the ones with the least amount of modifications to the trailer.

I like the idea of extending the bunks and getting away from the original wood. With that accomplished I think I'll try adjusting the axel to get a good tongue weight.

To save the time involved in putting the boat on and off the trailer and to work at home versus at the lake, I've heard a suggestion. It's actually from another post in this forum dated in 2005.

The author suggested:
Drop the tongue to the ground, block the stern of the trailer, raise the tongue. this will jack the complete trailer up, and take the tension off the springs. block the tongue (safety). then you can loosen the U bolts, and move the axles assembly. be sure when you get it where you want it. to measure from the same place on the tongue to the same place on each axle assembly. to be sure the axle is aligned straight with the trailer. the measurements have to be accurate, or it will tow out of line, and wear the tires.

Any thoughts on this approach?

Thanks for all of the help.

Brad
 

reelfishin

Captain
Joined
Mar 19, 2007
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3,050
Re: Problem with Escort trailer

It sounds like you have a good plan to me. Just so your axle is adjustable. I've seen those Escort trailers with both fixed axles and adjustable axles.

The bunks can and should extend past the transom, how much is up to you. I like to see at least an inch or so sticking out when the boat is loaded. This isn't the case with roller bunks, the last roller should only be far enough back to be just under the transom.
 

Mark42

Fleet Admiral
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Oct 8, 2003
Messages
9,334
Re: Problem with Escort trailer

The two sides of the bow stop are separate pieces and can be removed and re-drilled, but if your boat sits past the end of the bunks, and the tongue weight is light, my guess is that is not the right bayliner for that trailer. Bayliner usually sets up the boat so the transom is even with the bunks.

So...

I suggest loosening the four U bolts that hold the axle assy to the frame, and slide the assy rearward to change the tongue weight. Then jack the boat on the frame and remove (one at a time) each bunk and replace with a longer bunk.

And.... HEY! HEY!!!! THATS MY BAYLINER/TRAILER IN THAT PHOTO! Snagged it from my photobucket, eh? :)

anyway, you probably saw this one while you were there, but it does show the U bolts that need to be loosened to move the axle assembly to the rear to increase tongue weight.

Ph2007-06-23BaylinerBoat00009.jpg
 
Joined
Nov 4, 2008
Messages
3
Re: Problem with Escort trailer

You're exactly right. It was easier to grab your photo because I have the identical trailer. I refered to one of the posts in you original group some years back.

I was curious if you had any luck, but the post was so old.

I was wondering if the approach described allowed you to safely adjust the trailer without off loading the boat. It would be very convenient.

Thanks to all, Brad
 

Mark42

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
9,334
Re: Problem with Escort trailer

I had light tongue weight when I first bought the boat. After I cleaned it out, I realized the previous owner had stuffed three 6 gallon fuel tanks, the battery, a case of tcw3 oil, anchor and other stuff all under the splashwell. After removing everything and just leaving the factory 9 gallon tank and battery, the tongue weight was back to normal.

Regarding jacking the boat to remove bunks; get a scissor jack and some blocks of 2x4. Put the scissor jack between the boat and trailer frame. Depending on configuration, blocks may be needed to reach the hull. Blocks should be used against the hull to help spread the load, or jack on hard points like the transom or chines. The objective is to jack the boat so that it is resting on the bow roller (make sure the winch is pulled tight), the other bunk and the scissor jack. That makes two points of support on the trailer, and one on the jack. Then the bunk can be loosened and slid back or removed and a larger one installed. This is the method I used to get the new Loadrite trailer to fit the MFG boat.

I was looking at my trailer yesterday and the bunk supports are attached to the frame with an intergal U bolt. There are also 3 supports on each bunk. So you should be able to loosen and slide them back.

To move the axle back, jack up the frame and put suitable supports (concrete blocks, jack stands, etc) under the frame so the wheels are hanging free in the air. Then soak all the ubolts with penetrating oil and let sit before trying to loosen the nuts.

There is a forumla that will tell you how much to move an axle based on the length of the trailer, weight of boat, and some other variables to get desired tongue weight. You should do some searches to find it, as it might help reduce the amount of "move axle, lower trailer, weigh tongue, jack up, move axle, lower trailer, weight tongue...."

BTW, in the tongue photo the winch is the old style with nylon rope. I replaced it with a new winch that has a flat strap. The new winch has a longer handle than the old winch, and I had to drill new mounting holes to get the winch far enough foward so the handle would clear the bow, as well as bend the handle a bit. Or the old winch handle could be used. I like the longer handle for better leverage. Its not a problem until the boat is almost fully loaded, then watch the knuckles on the last wind or two.

Good luck.
 
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