Probably the thousandth person to ask. A1 Gen II main drive bellows, how to?

[NHGuy]

I have manual 14 but I don't see any short description of what is the efficient way to change just the drive bellows.
My drive does not use an exhaust bellows.
I removed the trim sensors, inner shift cable and the bellhousing bolts. Surprisingly, the bolts came right out with a 1/2" breaker bar and the correct Mercruiser socket. No heat or impact needed. Though it is 90 degrees out today!
I started to remove the shift cable (have a long enough socket) and took a break to see if there was a best way to proceed.
Do I have to remove the shift cable? I will if needed. Just thought I'd check first.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Nope, none of that. You can skillfully remove the bellows without disassembly remove the exaust bellow if equipped, remove the alum ring, loosen the transom clamp and remove.
use a long flat screwdriver to break the glue seal at the transom side compress, bend, pull the bellow down and out from the bottom.

put a piece of tape to locate the "up side" when you get the new bellow up and in the same way , place the glue on your fingers and reach inside to apply it liberally to the inside of the bellow.
push bellow in place untill seated, tighten clamp.
Work the other end inside the gimbal housing and install the alum ring with some type of supporting tool.and mercury Power-Tune

 

[NHGuy]

OK, here's another thing I didn't see referenced. The new bellows has flat sides 180 degrees apart. Do those go left and right? That's where I think i will put them.

 

[Watermann]

Make sure you clean the mating surfaces well before reinstalling the bellows and inspect the water line for signs of deterioration if it hasn't been replaced recently.

 

[NHGuy]

So yes the flats go left and right. Which worked out well once I was informed I should find the "top" mark on the new bellows.
I had bought a ring driver ($20), so once the bellows was on the transom plate the rest went like butter.