power trim tilt

[tired evinrude]

i have a 60hp 1982rude. how hard is it to put on power trin@tilt. thanks

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: power trim tilt

The factory power trim unit for your engine is one which mounts externally to the transom brackets. (the early style.) It has been discontinued years ago. Only a few parts are still available. Check out the original factory exploded parts diagrams at: epc.brp.com. You've got a couple of choices: 1. purchase a used one- perhaps a complete junk engine-then take the trim off of it. Even though these units looked unusual, they performed well. 2. Purchase an aftermarket one which will bolt between your current engine and the transom of the boat. This style also works well, but since it will space the engine back on the transom about 6", it is possible that you may need to alter the shift/throttle cable length as well as the steering cable length.

 

[64osby]

Re: power trim tilt

Putting the unit on is not hard. The hardest part is the cost.

A good used factory unit will cost $350 plus and they are usually hard to find. A CMC or other after market brand will cost more, $500 plus. These are very nice and it will also hold it's value over time.

 

[Home Cookin']

Re: power trim tilt

It's hard to justify a part that costs what the motor is worth. I vote going to the boat junk yard and buying a bracket w/ PTT and a reasonable trial warranty.

 

[boobie]

Re: power trim tilt

The CMC is a lot better unit than the orginial factory one. Easier to install and a lot less trouble in the long run. Those older units are hard to find parts for also.

 

[RRitt]

Re: power trim tilt

The factory power trim unit for your engine is one which mounts externally to the transom brackets. (the early style.) It has been discontinued years ago.

I have been rebuilding the Prestolite valve bodies on this system for years but never the actual system. This winter I am clearing out the widows and orphans bins including two of these complete systems. I have just finished rebuilding the rams and they are awaiting paint.

I think this two ram EJ trim & tilt system is the worst design that I have ever seen. The left trim cylinder has a built in positional rheostat (for a trim gauge?). As the system raises and lowers the air inside is trapped and alternates between pressure and vacumn. Such a design will eventually suck water into the ram housing and cause rust. It is a terrible, terrible design. You can not just leave unaccounted pressure in a hydraulic ram. This is the second time I have encountered very poor design basics in an EJ system. The single ram system from 1989-2004 uses a radial shaft seal as an upper rod wiper. While a genuine rod wiper lasts 30 years, the more expensive radial shaft seal is only going to last 10-12 when used like that. What the heck are these EJ engineers thinking? I can't help but being left with the feeling that EJ hydraulic engineers are sometimes too busy being clever and they forget to be reliable.

Moving forward - The prestolite pump is very reliable good for 20-25 years and fully rebuildable to new quality. The right side actuator is well designed and should deliver 30 years. The prestolite pumps are fairly cheap ($100ish) since they were also used on OMC stringer drives. The rams are fairly cheap ($70ish) also because they are commonly sold on ebay as an a la carte item. If you were to start from scratch then you could use two of the fully powered rams (right side) and eliminate the glaring point of failure (left ram). Hydraulic plumbing is easy with 3/16" ez-bend brake tubing and a $15 double lap flaring tool. The CuNi alloy used in ezbend is also suitable for saltwater use. So a system with two full actuators should deliver 20+ years of reliable operation. If you can find the yokes and mounting brackets, then everything else seems fairly easy and cheap.

So ... if I had a 1982 60HP EJ then I would either patch together a true two ram system or use one of the powered jackplates by Panther or CMC.