Just checked oil{motor cold} and it appears overfilled and dirty. It is still in break-in with only 4 hours. I'm beginning to have second thoughts about 4-strokes. I've followed break-in procedures per text. Do I need to worry at this time?
nope<br /> just keep an eye on it<br /> I try to keep the level in the middle of the hash marks. dont ever attempt to top it off and bring the level to the top of the marks. the yamaha manual says tilt the motor after warming it for 5 min. then tilt it back level and check the level.<br /> making oil is somewhat common and does not always indicate a problem. try to keep the RPM at the top of the permitted range for the stage of breakin your at.<br />at the ten hour check make sure you inspect the oil level as per the owners manuls instructions before taking delivery. if its filled to the top of the hash marks ask them to drain it to the middle. if the level is anywhere in the marks its acceptable but dont try to keep it at the top. once your comfortable with the level use a small file and mark it. then each time you check the oil use the same procedure.
you may.<br /> try to use a turky baster or a syringe with a hose and suck it out the dipstick. if you crack the drainplug the flow is uncontrolable .<br /> also smell it for the presence of gas. a moderate gas smell is rather normal a heavy one is not
One thing that is rarely clear in break-in instructions, Loyd, is that break-in should be done in several hour periods. . . with the engine hot.<br /><br />Like any 4 stroke, maximum damage occurs with the engine cold or at less than full operating temp.<br /><br />Do not fire her up for a half hour and put her away. She needs to be fully warmed and then run for a while. That allows gas that gets into the lube from the over-rich mixture when cold to evaporate and it allows the engine to burn a correct, lean mixture while seating rings and bearing surfaces. This is particularly important in cool or cold weather.<br /><br />My preference is to run the engine harder in cold weather to ensure full operating temp, but follow Yamaha's instructions.<br /><br />It is not cheap, but I think you should change diluted oil rather than simply remove some of it.<br /><br />Good luck.
JB,<br /><br />If I change oil now, should I also change the filter? <br />Also, I checked the oil after warming for 5 mins and found it only slightly overfilled. the first time I checked, the engine was cold.
before ya drive your self nuts just smell it. dont worry about small fluctuations dont worry until its something abnormal. check it exactly as the owners manual describes. follow that procedure . do not get tempted to top it off cause its 1/4" below the top of the hash marks.<br /> I like to see the level in about the middle of the has marks.<br /> in a 5 min run you really warmed up nothing. that is when they tend to make oil. that motor is not considered at operating temps until its been run 30 min at above 3500 RPM with a medium load,<br /> cannot be acheived on a flusher.<br />the make oil and overcooling problems have been an issue with ALL makes of 4 strokes. most techs cant handle it much less a consumer.<br /> the problem with raw water cooling is it is difficult to kep that much aluminium hot at low speeds.I recently read some tech reviews that some makers are going to a dual t-stat set up. on for the heads and one for the block.I have temp gunned rocker covers and blocks that have idled 30 min in the water and still had areas that were below 100 degrees even though the head temp at the t-stat was 140.<br /> JB gave ya a good tip. when breaking it in do as long a run as possible. keep the RPM's at the upper range of your stage of breakin.
Thanks again rodbolt. Upon delivery, the marine tech showed me how to check the oil, and also said not to overfill. I did notice that the oil level was slightly under the max full mark on delivery.
dont sweat 1/4" fluctuations. if it tries to climb out the tube then you have permission to start the seat pumps <br />the problem is half the techs never read the manual. did his procedure match the written one in your owners manual? <br /> did you write it down or are you relying on memory ?
2005 FS115 YAMAHA BACK FROM SHOP<br /><br />Theres a good possibility that the engine was overfilled when initially serviced. Anyway, a new thermostat, 15 pitch prop, plugs, and routine oil changed perform. 10 micron water/fuel separator installed. In addition, I had a leakdown test done showing 7% per cylinder.<br />3 hour running post service indicates no increase in oil level at this time.