My first question on iboats:
Purchased my current Cobalt used with 60hrs on the clock. One item I noticed from day one was the volt gauge never exceeded 13 volts (manual states 14+ etc.). Did not have any issues with actual charging given our use the first two years yet this year I have had several instances of low/dead batteries. Had the dealer check it out and they "claim" the alternator produced 13.5 volts for them. As mentioned, I have never seen the gauge over 13 (at any RPM) and my checks at battery and alternator while operating resulted in a max of 12.8 - key off the battery was 12.5.
What I see on the gauge during operation is typically right around battery voltage ~12. If while cruising I tap/operate the trim it will jump up just under 13 yet quickly drop back down to 12.
Any thoughts besides the fact the alternator could be close to death?
Also, my Volvo tech stated the engine had to be 1500 rpm or more for the alternator to be "excited" (not that that makes a difference with mine). I found that odd to say the least given how much idling and low rpm operation, stop/starts etc boats encounter.
Mine is a dual battery setup with isolator switch. Above is consistent regardless of selection/switch position. (75 amp alternator).
Thoughts?
Thanks all.
Smitty
Purchased my current Cobalt used with 60hrs on the clock. One item I noticed from day one was the volt gauge never exceeded 13 volts (manual states 14+ etc.). Did not have any issues with actual charging given our use the first two years yet this year I have had several instances of low/dead batteries. Had the dealer check it out and they "claim" the alternator produced 13.5 volts for them. As mentioned, I have never seen the gauge over 13 (at any RPM) and my checks at battery and alternator while operating resulted in a max of 12.8 - key off the battery was 12.5.
What I see on the gauge during operation is typically right around battery voltage ~12. If while cruising I tap/operate the trim it will jump up just under 13 yet quickly drop back down to 12.
Any thoughts besides the fact the alternator could be close to death?
Also, my Volvo tech stated the engine had to be 1500 rpm or more for the alternator to be "excited" (not that that makes a difference with mine). I found that odd to say the least given how much idling and low rpm operation, stop/starts etc boats encounter.
Mine is a dual battery setup with isolator switch. Above is consistent regardless of selection/switch position. (75 amp alternator).
Thoughts?
Thanks all.
Smitty