scotchontherocks
Recruit
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2012
- Messages
- 2
Hi everyone, or howdy, since you all appear to be Americans.
My 2000 4.3 GS Chris Craft wouldn't start of course in the warmest March on record.
I tested all the ignition circuits from the key back (including ordering a replacement to the broken microswitch in my shifter that i then discovered had been bypassed, presumably by the electrician who fixed/broke my trim sender recently)
The slave relay works fine and switches with zero resistance so I bought and fitted a brand new servo/starter unit as mine had a little swim last year when the float switch didn't do its duty. Anyway it was a bit rusty and on the bench only the actuator worked reliably so I guess it was in the exit lounge.
I've fitted the new unit and if i short it, it works fine. However, at the key, no joy.
So, following the wiring diagrams available through this site, I've eventually tracked down the culprit. There is no positive feed to the switched side of the slave relay. Ive tracked it back through the circuit breaker, which is also fine, to a fat +- connector on top of the engine, which is also a good connection to the relay, before it disappears into the loom.
However, I just can't find how that thick red wire connects to the +ve battery terminal. There are 3 big fuses there and I'm guessing the cable of the same thickness is the feed.
The battery is fine, it spins the engine when shorted, all the wiring is in factory un-molested condition.
The only deviations from the wiring diagrams are that I don't have/need the 'R' feed from the solenoid to spark system etc, and I don't appear to have a second connection from the +ve solenoid into the loom.
Can anyone suggest anything before I just get a bit of wire and fit it straight from the battery fuses to the relay plug?
Regards,
David.
My 2000 4.3 GS Chris Craft wouldn't start of course in the warmest March on record.
I tested all the ignition circuits from the key back (including ordering a replacement to the broken microswitch in my shifter that i then discovered had been bypassed, presumably by the electrician who fixed/broke my trim sender recently)
The slave relay works fine and switches with zero resistance so I bought and fitted a brand new servo/starter unit as mine had a little swim last year when the float switch didn't do its duty. Anyway it was a bit rusty and on the bench only the actuator worked reliably so I guess it was in the exit lounge.
I've fitted the new unit and if i short it, it works fine. However, at the key, no joy.
So, following the wiring diagrams available through this site, I've eventually tracked down the culprit. There is no positive feed to the switched side of the slave relay. Ive tracked it back through the circuit breaker, which is also fine, to a fat +- connector on top of the engine, which is also a good connection to the relay, before it disappears into the loom.
However, I just can't find how that thick red wire connects to the +ve battery terminal. There are 3 big fuses there and I'm guessing the cable of the same thickness is the feed.
The battery is fine, it spins the engine when shorted, all the wiring is in factory un-molested condition.
The only deviations from the wiring diagrams are that I don't have/need the 'R' feed from the solenoid to spark system etc, and I don't appear to have a second connection from the +ve solenoid into the loom.
Can anyone suggest anything before I just get a bit of wire and fit it straight from the battery fuses to the relay plug?
Regards,
David.