Painting Aluminum

Pierce89

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Jun 21, 2019
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Good morning. I've sanded the paint off an old 18ft aluminum boat with 80 grit (slow process), and will do a quick round with 220 grit. I've read the next steps are Alumiprep 33, then Alodine 1201, then Zinc Chromate (is this the same as an Epoxy primer, or do you Zinc Chromate THEN put a separate epoxy primer?), then topcoat. I plan on using Totalboat products for the finish.

Does anyone know where to source the Alumiprep 33 or Alodine 1201 at a brick and mortar store in South Florida? I saw I could order them from Aircraft Spruce but it's $52 for a gallon of Alodine and $44 for a gallon of Alumiprep then $68 shipping.

Also has anyone used epoxy primer and topside paint as bottom paint on an aluminum boat that will be used in saltwater and never be in the water longer than 24hrs? Or is bottom paint necessary. This paint job is getting expensive
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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look up your local finishmaster
 

dingbat

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If your going to etch you need to know exactly what aluminum alloy your boat is made of.

Most aluminum etches are not friendly to aluminum alloyed with copper, ie 5052
 

Pierce89

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Jun 21, 2019
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Uh oh, I am not sure what aluminum it is. The boat is a 1960 Lonestar El Dorado but I'm pretty sure all Lonestars used the same aluminum sheets. Does anybody know?
 

Scott Danforth

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most small aluminum boats are made out of 5052

large aluminum yachts are made out of 5083 or 5086
 

dingbat

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Do yourself a favor and bypass the etching.
Too much to loose with little to no gain in protection.

Sand then wash with soap and water to remove any residue.

Any 2 part polyurethane epoxy worth its weight uses a formulated (wash) primer as under coat. Use the product specified by your paint manufacturer and you will be good to go.

This is the paint we used until we switched to powder coating a few years back.

 

Pierce89

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Jun 21, 2019
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What are yalls thoughts on Goop Coat-It? I already bought Gluvit for the interior seams and rivets and want to make sure this boat is 100% ocean ready. I can't really flip this boat in my driveway easily without removing the cabin which is quite alot of rivets. One review on Amazon for Coat-It says it's pretty thin and difficult to apply it when the boat is upright, and the majority of other reviews were for jon boats that can easily be flipped.

Do you think it'd be feasible to lift the boat with two 2-ton harbor freight cherry pickers, move trailer out from under it, and successfully apply it to the entire bottom upside down? Then a light sanding, and a topcoat paint on bottom since it'll be trailered?
 

fatlenny

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Oct 8, 2021
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Good morning. I've sanded the paint off an old 18ft aluminum boat with 80 grit (slow process), and will do a quick round with 220 grit. I've read the next steps are Alumiprep 33, then Alodine 1201, then Zinc Chromate (is this the same as an Epoxy primer, or do you Zinc Chromate THEN put a separate epoxy primer?), then topcoat. I plan on using Totalboat products for the finish.

Does anyone know where to source the Alumiprep 33 or Alodine 1201 at a brick and mortar store in South Florida? I saw I could order them from Aircraft Spruce but it's $52 for a gallon of Alodine and $44 for a gallon of Alumiprep then $68 shipping.

Also has anyone used epoxy primer and topside paint as bottom paint on an aluminum boat that will be used in saltwater and never be in the water longer than 24hrs? Or is bottom paint necessary. This paint job is getting expensive
Good morning, i use to work at a packaging company here in Michigan that bottled alumiprep and alodine. Use caution with what you do with your wet rags or anything you use to apply the alodine when done with them. this chemical when it dries on a rag or a other surface that will burn will spontaneously combust. we had to place all rags used for any clean up of this product into a fireproof can and many times i have seen these rags nothing but ash the next day. it is an odd thing to see a water based product cause combustion when it is drying and would hate to hear of a fire due to a spill at a home from this product. any spills on wood or fabric needs to be rinsed excessively and all rags soaked with this product placed in a fireproof container or away from any flammable materials while drying. use gloves as these chemicals should not touch your skin, not only for your health but the alodine will stain your skin orange for days.

Is alodine flammable?


Clothing contaminated with ALODINE 1201 can become dangerously flammable. Immediately remove contaminated clothing and rinse thoroughly with water. Contact of combustible material with ALODINE 1201 may cause fire. ALODINE 1201 contains chromic acid in excess of 0.1 percent.
 

Bob_VT

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What are yalls thoughts on Goop Coat-It? I already bought Gluvit for the interior seams and rivets and want to make sure this boat is 100% ocean ready. I can't really flip this boat in my driveway easily without removing the cabin which is quite alot of rivets. One review on Amazon for Coat-It says it's pretty thin and difficult to apply it when the boat is upright, and the majority of other reviews were for jon boats that can easily be flipped.

Do you think it'd be feasible to lift the boat with two 2-ton harbor freight cherry pickers, move trailer out from under it, and successfully apply it to the entire bottom upside down? Then a light sanding, and a topcoat paint on bottom since it'll be trailered?
I have used both and actually prefer gluvit on the inside. The coat it will be somewhat okay but I would consider that more of a "wear-abrasion" coating if used on the bottom. I personally would just stay with paint on the outside.
Lifting your boat can be accomplished using the cherry pickers BUT be prepared to have serious staging on hand and wood braces. PLEASE do not ever get under a suspended boat - it could have deadly consequences.
 

Texasmark

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Dec 20, 2005
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14,696
Good morning. I've sanded the paint off an old 18ft aluminum boat with 80 grit (slow process), and will do a quick round with 220 grit. I've read the next steps are Alumiprep 33, then Alodine 1201, then Zinc Chromate (is this the same as an Epoxy primer, or do you Zinc Chromate THEN put a separate epoxy primer?), then topcoat. I plan on using Totalboat products for the finish.

Does anyone know where to source the Alumiprep 33 or Alodine 1201 at a brick and mortar store in South Florida? I saw I could order them from Aircraft Spruce but it's $52 for a gallon of Alodine and $44 for a gallon of Alumiprep then $68 shipping.

Also has anyone used epoxy primer and topside paint as bottom paint on an aluminum boat that will be used in saltwater and never be in the water longer than 24hrs? Or is bottom paint necessary. This paint job is getting expensive
Aircraft alum. parts get Alodine which is a chemical etch of the surface....and Zinc Chromate is a primer paint for aluminum. I never Alodined large parts as the process was to dip a raw component in a solution for a period of time, let the acid cut into the surface and remove. ZC on the other hand is a primer especially developed for protecting sheet aluminum and can be sprayed on.

I would certainly think that ZC would be your best bet for a boat hull and then epoxy paint. I had a 1965 Starcraft 18' I/O Holiday model that I restored. Had been partially submerged in a marina for quite awhile and was partially submerged.....I had to be out of my mind at the time but I had it in my head that I wanted one and here one was....I was blindsided. Had yellow engine oil, a crack in the side of the block (JB Weld fixed) and a worn out outdrive including having to build back aluminum housing parts with JB Weld that had been corroded away to get some seals a place to seal...and I do remember, in the mid 1980 time frame of paying $1600 for the thing.....had to be out of my mind!!!!!!!!

I stripped out everything but the aluminum hull and fore deck and took it to a Dallas commercial sand blasting facility and the process included sandblasting the hull where they hung it up on a gantry crane and blasted it.....carefully as blasting on a commercial level can punch through the hull...but they knew what they were doing. They then washed it, let it dry, rolled it (rollers on the long surpentine crane) into a paint shed, closed the door and applied one coat of a 2 part white epoxy paint. Having sandblasted it initially setup the surface to readily take and hold paint....without any primer or Alodine solution being applied. I don't recall the cost but it was very reasonable...had to be as I was short on funds at the time raising 4 kids with their mother. After the restoration, I had the boat for at least 10 years and gave it to sons who used it for I don't know how long. Never had a minutes trouble with paint peeling or any type of problem.

While I'm telling the story, while in Dallas dropping off the boat, nearby was a commercial hot dip galvanizing shop that had huge vats into which they put cross country high voltage power line tower parts to galvanize prior to constructing the towers. I disassembled the trailer on their lot down to what was coatable, a fork lift came over and picked up the trailer, took it to a tank, a crane picked it up and dumped it in a tank. Took them about 30 minutes for that.

I reassembled the the thing on the lot and drove it home. Put new bunks on it and what ever else it needed and a few days later came back and picked up my freshly painted boat....I do remember the cost for the dip and it was $30. The foreman said that my case was most unusual but he decided to help me out and do it anyway and after finishing said that he under bid the job.......I mentally agreed. I did appreciate it.
 

Pierce89

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Jun 21, 2019
Messages
50
I got her flipped now and working to remove the rest of the paint around rivets. I also removed the old sealant in all the seams on outside of hull and have a quick question. I need this boat to be 100% sealed so saltwater doesn't get under the deck and corrode everywhere.

I bought two canisters of the 3M 5200 to reseal the outside seams. Is there any benefit to putting gluvit or goop coat-it into the outside seams and letting it soak down into the seam before adding the 3M 5200, or is it a big waste of money? Will the 3M 5200 do the trick alone? I do plan on adding gluvit to interior seams and rivets already.
 

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Bob_VT

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I would strongly recommend Gluvit or coat it on the outside seams. Tilt the boat on a slight angle to do one side of the seams - let it seep in and the next day tilt the boat and repeat from the other direction.

You could also Re-buck the rivets if they appear loose prior to the sealants.
 

Pierce89

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Jun 21, 2019
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Thanks Bob_VT I will, it sounds like a good idea to do it now that I have it flipped unpainted. I'll do the seams from the outside and also from the inside.
 

Pierce89

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Jun 21, 2019
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I have a new problem. The rivets inside the hull were covered with silicone from previous owner, and looks like silicone chews through aluminum. What is the best way to repair them? I was thinking ordering 1/4" aluminum bolts with locknuts, heavily coat them in 3M 5200 and install. Then after it dries, apply gluvit. I may do this for every single rivet but want to make sure it is lasting?
 

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Bob_VT

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You can use bolts and washers and Gluvit or Coat-it will work. No need to use 5200 then another coating. If you use a wires brush on a drill - use a brass one or a fiber brush. the steel ones could leave residue that will react over the years.
 
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