paint for Nissan outboard

[mikkydee]

I have a 1985 Nissan 70 hp NS70A outboard. The motor has been used exclusively in salt water from the looks of it. Plenty of corrosion and paint failure that needs to be addressed so I am looking at repainting it. However the Nissan color has long since been discontinued. I am looking at sanding down the motor, removing all the failing paint, repriming and repainting it. I would like to go as close back to the original color as possible and have a good durable finish for years to come. I have a couple of questions. 1. What kind of paint have yuo guys used for similar projects (Acrylic Urethane car paint, or acrylic enamel automotive paint, Rustoleum, etc.. 2. How did it hold up (I will be using mine in salt water). 3. What primer is recommended for the harsh environment of salt water?

Also from my best calculations the color on that is Cobalt Blue. Any thoughts on a current color someone has found that would match the old Nissan/Tohatsu Cobalt blue?

 

[gm280]

Okay mikkydee, I will give you my opinion, for what that is worth. I use PPG automotive Acrylic Urethane paints with a two stage setup. I spray the base color followed with a few clears coats. And once cured, it is impervious to oils, gas, and any type of fuel.

If you have even a small area of the original paint remaining, they have computer technology at the auto paint stores to match it. So you can easily get the original colors without worry.

I would have the engine blasted to remove all the old paint and corrosion and then follow that up with either Zinc Chromate primer first to the bare aluminum, or a good quality etching primer. Then follow that up with a quality automotive high build 2K sandabe primer. Sand that primer to a very nice surface, because the finish will be determined by the preparation. If you can see a flaw or feel a flaw in the prep work, it will certainly show in the final finish. Painting is everything to do with preparation.

That is just my opinion and if you care to see how that is done, click on the engine rebuild link below. JMHO

 

[TGuy]

Before you spend a lot of time (and money) repainting, you might want to check to see if any critical parts are still available. 1985 makes this a 32 year old motor and if you can't get parts (water pump kits, gaskets, etc.) then might not want to invest in a pretty paint job.

 

[mikkydee]

Okay mikkydee, I will give you my opinion, for what that is worth. I use PPG automotive Acrylic Urethane paints with a two stage setup. I spray the base color followed with a few clears coats. And once cured, it is impervious to oils, gas, and any type of fuel.

If you have even a small area of the original paint remaining, they have computer technology at the auto paint stores to match it. So you can easily get the original colors without worry.

I would have the engine blasted to remove all the old paint and corrosion and then follow that up with either Zinc Chromate primer first to the bare aluminum, or a good quality etching primer. Then follow that up with a quality automotive high build 2K sandabe primer. Sand that primer to a very nice surface, because the finish will be determined by the preparation. If you can see a flaw or feel a flaw in the prep work, it will certainly show in the final finish. Painting is everything to do with preparation.

That is just my opinion and if you care to see how that is done, click on the engine rebuild link below. JMHO

Thanks for the input. Beautiful job on the restoration pics btw! I am sure the 2 stage system would work great but I'm thinking I would prefer to go with a one stage paint at this point. I was planning on using the zinc chromate primer as you suggested and I believe is what they use on the motors when they originally painted. I am curious what a 2k primer is though and what the 2k stands for. I do have some familiarity with high build automotive primer years ago. Thanks for your input

 

[mikkydee]

Before you spend a lot of time (and money) repainting, you might want to check to see if any critical parts are still available. 1985 makes this a 32 year old motor and if you can't get parts (water pump kits, gaskets, etc.) then might not want to invest in a pretty paint job.

My old evinrude finally bit the dirt and was not worth repairing. Budget was a major consideration and
I did acquire the motor at a very good price and it runs like a top. It has been a challenge finding some of the parts but so far I have been able to track down about everything I need on ebay or elsewhere. So I am doing the best I can to get my fishing boat back on the water with a limited budget. It is somewhat frustrating that Nissan/Tohatsu has thrown customers under the bus by not producing parts for their older motors. Those are exceptional motors and worth taking care of. I spoke to a Nissan master mechanic before buying the motor and he told me to get it because they are built well and they seldom have to do repairs on them. So fortunately it doesn't need a head gasket or piston rings, that would be very problematic to find.

 

[gm280]

mikkydee, any quality high build primer will work over the zing chromate primer. Any primer that uses a catalyst additive (some times called hardener) is considered a 2K primer. So if you are simply spraying rattle can type primers, it still can be sandable, but not a catalyzed primer. Most automotive 2k Urethane primers are two part mix and therefore 2k primers. They will not wipe off with the usual lacquer thinners or Acetone. But rattle can primers will. So however you decide to go, I would spent the money for 2K primer. And you can go Single Stage Automotive Acrylic Urethane too. They make any color in both Double Stage and Singe Stage. It is merely up to you. Hope that helps.

 

[mikkydee]

mikkydee, any quality high build primer will work over the zing chromate primer. Any primer that uses a catalyst additive (some times called hardener) is considered a 2K primer. So if you are simply spraying rattle can type primers, it still can be sandable, but not a catalyzed primer. Most automotive 2k Urethane primers are two part mix and therefore 2k primers. They will not wipe off with the usual lacquer thinners or Acetone. But rattle can primers will. So however you decide to go, I would spent the money for 2K primer. And you can go Single Stage Automotive Acrylic Urethane too. They make any color in both Double Stage and Singe Stage. It is merely up to you. Hope that helps.

yep that explanation helps a bunch! Of course it sounds like the 2 K primer would be superior for longevity and durability. I will just need to look at cost and what I have to work with. I live in somewhat of a small town so there is not much available. Certainly not an automotive paint supplier so I will have to look on the web and see what is available and what the cost is..

 

[gm280]

mikkydee, if you have any auto body shop around there, there is a paint store somewhere.Just saying.

 

[pvanv]

Beware the money pit. External paint is just mascara; not critical to operation. Internal corrosion after 30 some years in salt may make the motor uneconomical to repair. Parts will become a real issue. How many parts are available for a 1985 K car? Also, Nissan is now officially completely out of the outboard business, so you will need to match paint color as gm280 suggests; there will not be any more enamel from Nissan Marine.