Oxidation Removal

crazy charlie

Vice Admiral
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
5,504
Re: Oxidation Removal

Start with a polishing compound followed by a good quality wax or sealant and keep the gelcoat well rinsed after use and wax as often as you can.It really depends how badly oxidized the gelcoat is and what color it is.A polishing wheel will get the job done much better than by hand.Charlie
 

Boomyal

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 16, 2003
Messages
12,072
Re: Oxidation Removal

Use an orbital polisher instead of a conventional rotary polisher. You will eliminate the possibilty of burning thru the gelcoat. If your oxidation is terminal, in other words, polishing and or waxing has a very short term effect try this product.<br /><br /> http://www.tsrw.com/ <br /><br />iboats does not carry it. I think they just sell direct. My 28 y/o boat has some brown textured gelcoat surfaces that were beyond waxing and this stuff worked great. Appears to be very durable as well.
 

oneforu2nv

Cadet
Joined
Dec 26, 2003
Messages
13
Re: Oxidation Removal

Well the Oxidation does not seem to be terminal but it is bad enough that the green stripe on my boat looks like a chalky green by mid august. Too bad that this stripe is like 10 inches wide and it is what everyone sees when they see my boat. I have been told that monthers and 303 make a good product to cure this. What do you think? Last year I buffed the whole boat with a 3m buffind compound that cleaned it up real nice, then i used a wax called Yellow Wax. I did two coats of this and it looked great... well untill august and now it looks like it did when i started last winter. Just looking for something that will work better.
 

crazy charlie

Vice Admiral
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
5,504
Re: Oxidation Removal

as I said before,polishing compound,followed by either a quality wax or try dolfinite twax sealant.This is what I used.Then I finished off with formula 303 spray.Dont waste your time with an orbital polisher.That type is more for a coat of wax on a good finish.An oxidized finish needs a conventional polisher to "work" the gelcoat.Just make sure you keep the bonnet moving to avoid any burning.It is hard to burn gelcoat with a polisher.a painted surface will be easier to burn through.Dont apply too much pressure the first time and dont be surprised if it needs to be done again before the end of the season.Charlie
 

beertech44

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 12, 2003
Messages
43
Re: Oxidation Removal

I used a 3m wax it removed oxydation and waxed. Stuff is awesome
 

Ryoken

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 22, 2003
Messages
179
Re: Oxidation Removal

wet sand with 600 grit, then, 1000. compound with a rotary buffer. polish. wax... <br /><br />that dead top layer will always chalk up quickly unless you remove it. 600 the oxidation out, then 1000 to make those 600 scratchs buffable. we use 3M super duty compound, then Finesse and a good wax...<br /><br />have fun :)
 

Boomyal

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 16, 2003
Messages
12,072
Re: Oxidation Removal

H2O, from your description, I would call that terminal oxidation. Continued cutting will just wear thru the gelcoat. Check out the website above. The other products that you mentioned may or may not be effective. I've had no experience with them. I did my boat with TSRW three years ago and it still looks good. It is easier to reapply if any touchup is nec down the line.
 

Hooty

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 2, 2001
Messages
4,496
Re: Oxidation Removal

Yo Boomyal,<br />I checked that website and that stuff is like Vertglas that West Marine handles and it does work. I used it on my black hull Speedliner last summer and it still looks good.<br /><br />c/6<br />Hooty
 

Salty Sal

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 14, 2003
Messages
143
Re: Oxidation Removal

I agree with the 600 wet sand method for really bad oxidation. Then seal with an acrylic polymer product such as NewGlass or Veriglass.
 

Boomyal

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 16, 2003
Messages
12,072
Re: Oxidation Removal

Although wetsanding would work to get rid of the oxidation, the TSRW kit comes with it's own chemical cleaner and scrub pad. A lot easier than color sanding!
 

oneforu2nv

Cadet
Joined
Dec 26, 2003
Messages
13
Re: Oxidation Removal

I just want to say thank you for all of your information that you have givin me. The wet sanding part kinda scares me because sometimes i lack the skill and/or patience to something like that. I will have to research the chemical part of this with the ones you have recommended. <br /><br />The thing that gets me is that the white on the boat looks good and is not even chalky, it is only the green stripe that looks bad arounf the top. This is on a 87 Sea Ray Pachanga 19 incase you want to get a picture of what i am talking about. The Vinal Decales on the boat still look great too.... If anyone else has any further ideas, please let me know.<br /><br />Thanks Again!<br />H2O
 

lilthundr

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 19, 2002
Messages
44
Re: Oxidation Removal

I think you should start with something a little easier to use, where you cannot do too much damage if you are not too experienced.<br />I would recommend the MAGUIARS 3 part system.<br />It works well and is very easy to use. An electric buffer will help alot.
 

Ralph 123

Captain
Joined
Jun 24, 2003
Messages
3,983
Re: Oxidation Removal

I paid a pro like $250 to do my 28' 1979 Formula and it looked like a new boat when he was done. She still looks good and shinny now 2 years later.<br /><br />Here is an excerpt from post by Boat Doc a few months ago that talks about how he does it (and pretty much how my guy did mine)<br /><br />
As long as your gel is thick enough, the best thing to do is a sand and buff, but you could probably get away with just a buff. Get yourself a buffing bar, and about a 1500 rpm buffer and a good wool pad. Get the orange (brownish/red) bar. Do not be afraid to put a little grunt behind that buffer, this is gel not paint. One last thing, try a little area first, make sure your gel is thick enough, so you do not buff it off. be carefull of pinstripe, decals, and paint, you will burn those off if you get them too hot. When you get the finish the way you like it, go and buy some Finnesse it II by 3m, thats some good stuff, will make that booger shine twice as much after buffing. Finesse it will not remove oxydation, and does not contain wax. After Finess it, use a good carnuba wax, and do not store your boat in the sun.<br />
 

LubeDude

Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
6,945
Re: Oxidation Removal

I did a little experiment yesterday! Im always trying weird stuff to see if it will work!<br /><br />I have an old boat inside the shop that Im in the middle of restoring! The hull in the back has some fading! Hear in the shop I had some clear acrylic floor wax so I cleaned a section of the hull and applied four coats of the stuff, letting it dry before each coat! This morning it looks awsome! Now, does it have UV protectors, (probably not) How is it going to last, I have no Idea! But, if you had a used boat you wanted to sell or trade in, its a lot cheaper than the products advertised for this purpose! Not that any of us would ever do anything like that!<br /><br />LubeDude
 

Ryoken

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 22, 2003
Messages
179
Re: Oxidation Removal

good quote Ralph...<br /><br />this issue seems to boil down to a couple key issues to me. <br /><br />first is who is the manufacturer, and their thickness and quality of gel tendencies.<br /><br />second is how far gone is it? the porasity (sp?) of the gel is critical.<br /><br />third is keeping it protected once you've done the resto..<br /><br />years ago i ran a detailing company for about 4 years (i branched off into this after 5 yrs of painting 25 cars a week and a thorough understanding of running a wheel). we did all the trade ins for D&R boats here in Jersey. we saw tons of colored Sea Ray gel (teak too, don't miss that, but boy it looks cool). nice thick gel and plenty sandable. but most of the time if you wanted a killer resto we'd pull off the multicolor accent stripes that edged the colored gel that SR's are known for. then restripe it after a sand and buff.<br /><br />even the ones that never got a coat a wax after they where done by us would hold up about 3 years till they got any oxidation coming back. <br /><br />i tell my new boat owners the 2 most important things to do on a boat are change the oil and wax the heck out of em. ;) <br /><br />i have seen some of my customers use "magic" fixes. some seem to work ok, and in some circumstances i can see it being the best choice. but i have seen some disaster ones too. anyone remember Penetrol? :eek: <br /><br />but i tend to fall back to my body guy roots and trust the oldschool methods. hehe, i've actually got one 50' Chris Craft guy that does his bootstripe every spring with tranny fluid. ;)
 

oneforu2nv

Cadet
Joined
Dec 26, 2003
Messages
13
Re: Oxidation Removal

How do you know how thick the jel coat is? and if it is colored jel coat or not?
 
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